Ford Racing Z2363 Crate Engine Build

[Habu135]

Coolant and intake air temp

I'm a little confused here because I'm researching these sensors on LMR and it appears that while there are two sensors in the lower intake, there are three to choose from on LMR?

Coolant Temperature Sensor #LRS-12648A
Air Charge Temperature Sensor #LRS-12697A
Temperature Gauge Sending Unit #LRS-TS58

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-12697A/1984-1993-Mustang-50L-Air-Charge-Temperature-Sensor

 

[96pushrod]

Are they really that much more different than the Ford Racing ones that Mustang5L5 and TOOLOW91 are both running?

Couldn’t tell you. I would be inclined to believe the baffles will hit roller rockers though, I’ve seen them hit on the efi version of those valve covers. We had to grind the boss off where they were threaded for screws to clear.

I'm a little confused here because I'm researching these sensors on LMR and it appears that while there are two sensors in the lower intake, there are three to choose from on LMR?

Coolant Temperature Sensor #LRS-12648A
Air Charge Temperature Sensor #LRS-12697A
Temperature Gauge Sending Unit #LRS-TS58

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-12697A/1984-1993-Mustang-50L-Air-Charge-Temperature-Sensor

There are actually 3 sensors there, so if you want new you’ll need all 3.

In the order listed;
Coolant temp sensor is what the eec uses to read coolant temp. This is on the metal heater crossover.
Act goes on runner #5 for air temp
Temp sender is for the gauge in the cluster. It’s what you see.

 

[Habu135]

Couldn’t tell you. I would be inclined to believe the baffles will hit roller rockers though, I’ve seen them hit on the efi version of those valve covers. We had to grind the boss off where they were threaded for screws to clear.

There are actually 3 sensors there, so if you want new you’ll need all 3.

In the order listed;
Coolant temp sensor is what the eec uses to read coolant temp. This is on the metal heater crossover.
Act goes on runner #5 for air temp
Temp sender is for the gauge in the cluster. It’s what you see.

Now that makes sense. Thank you!

This is why I do the research.

 

[Habu135]

You can get the the thin spacer with the throttle bracket mount from eBay or Accufab with the tb

https://mc-machine.com/ols/products/50-throttle-cable-bracket

Here’s the adjustable cable bracket I run

Here's the poor man's bracket minus the AT kickdown.

 

[TOOLOW91]

Here's the poor man's bracket minus the AT kickdown.

I had that a long time ago. You’ll be happy you bought the piece I sent when you do

 

[TOOLOW91]

Are they really that much more different than the Ford Racing ones that Mustang5L5 and TOOLOW91 are both running?

They are the same to my knowledge . Just old school MOTORSPORt instead . In my opinion should be fine .

That one is missing the grommet for the breather they also make a cap that could go there too

 

[TOOLOW91]

Those more than likely won’t clear roller rockers

They are identical to mine minus the old school logo . I have Harland sharps under them with no issue .

 

[96pushrod]

They are identical to mine minus the old school logo . I have Harland sharps under them with no issue .

The ones we used had the newer logo as well. There was no making them work with the scorpion rockers without some grinding. It is what it is.

 

[TOOLOW91]

The ones we used had the newer logo as well. There was no making them work with the scorpion rockers without some grinding. It is what it is.

I don’t know , been running them on Tfs heads with the sharps since 2014 .

 

[2000xp8]

It appears on a crate engine like this I'll only need the '90-'93 oil pressure sending unit and NOT the stem. Or am I off here?

I think what you should be worrying about is putting a T inline. This way you can have the stock gauge work and add an aftermarket gauge.
Surely on a brand new $10,000 you are going to run a real oil pressure gauge correct?

 

[Habu135]

I think what you should be worrying about is putting a T inline. This way you can have the stock gauge work and add an aftermarket gauge.
Surely on a brand new $10,000 you are going to run a real oil pressure gauge correct?

I want a stock appearing car with modern hp and good driveability. I don't plan on gauge'ing my dashboard up.

 

[Habu135]

Reached out to my tuner about the Terminator/Lightning MAF vs Pro-M debate. Here is his response.

"I never recommend Pro-M or PMAS MAF sensors due to inconsistent calibrations. Factory Ford electronics are superior and will support any draw-thru system. The 90mm Lightning MAF will support over 500RWHP on naturally aspirated combinations. The 2005-2010 GT MAF is another great choice when you need more dynamic range."

 

[Habu135]

Ford Performance Parts Z2 Velocity Vane cylinder heads improve power throughout the rpm range. Developed with advanced computer-aided engineering simulation tools, Ford Z2 aluminum heads feature their unique Velocity Vane intake port design that delivers outstanding street/strip power. These high performance cylinder heads are direct bolt-ons for Ford 289/302/351W engines, and they retain OEM exhaust, intake, and accessory mounting locations.

This is per Summit Racing's description, so it looks like my choice of long tubes just opened up to any stock 302 style head.

 

[96pushrod]

Reached out to my tuner about the Terminator/Lightning MAF vs Pro-M debate. Here is his response.

"I never recommend Pro-M or PMAS MAF sensors due to inconsistent calibrations. Factory Ford electronics are superior and will support any draw-thru system. The 90mm Lightning MAF will support over 500RWHP on naturally aspirated combinations. The 2005-2010 GT MAF is another great choice when you need more dynamic range."

The comment on interesting calibration is interesting, and not something I’ve heard before. Even if it’s different from one sensor to another, it wouldn’t matter much on a car that’s getting tuned in person.

 

[Habu135]

The comment on interesting calibration is interesting, and not something I’ve heard before. Even if it’s different from one sensor to another, it wouldn’t matter much on a car that’s getting tuned in person.

Maybe he's referring to "store bought" MAF sensors already tuned for a specific fuel injector size versus a custom tune utilizing a Ford MAF.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Are they really that much more different than the Ford Racing ones that Mustang5L5 and TOOLOW91 are both running?

Those are for a carb anyway. I think they are the same minus the logo. I love the Motorsport logo better than Ford racing, but they do make an EFI specific one. They get sold on the "Ford Motorsport" FB group.

To make mine clear my Crane Gold rockers, i did have to grind off two casting bosses internally and remove the baffle. After that, no contact. 3/4" spacer required for the intake to clear (specifically the throttle cable bracket. You can always cut/weld that shorter to not use the spacer

 

[Mustang5L5]

Here's where the interference was. These little nubs on both sides

Only had to grind down a few, but i did have to remove the baffle

And the clearance with the 3/8" intake spacer

 

[96pushrod]

Here's where the interference was. These little nubs on both sides

Only had to grind down a few, but i did have to remove the baffle

And the clearance with the 3/8" intake spacer

Exactly what we experienced. Not a dealbreaker by any means

 

[revhead347]

I'm digging these old school Ford Motorsport valve covers on Ebay, but it looks like the breather is missing something. What would it take to make these work? I may have to splurge on an early Christmas present for myself assuming I can find the right breather AND these would work on my planned build.

Ford Motorsport Finned Valve Covers | eBay

This is a pair of Ford Motorsport valve covers can cap. Beautiful condition.

www.ebay.com

The Trick Flow ones are nearly half the price, are lower profile, guaranteed to clear without grinding, and you can kind of put this half ass oil fill neck in it. Those you have to have an oil fill neck welded on.

Kurt

 

[revhead347]

A 1.6" dia exhaust valve is less than 1-5/8" and that is not the smallest part of the exhaust. 1.6" is the outside dia of the valve, not the seat area, plus the port gets choked further right at the valve stem/guide area.
1-3/4" long tubes are more than enough for this engine the way it is going to be used.

That's not exactly how the math works.

Kurt