What the heck is up with my temp gauge readings? (long)

I have been trying to fix what I thought was an overheating issue. Basically, I'll be driving along the freeway and temp will be steady at 180-190 where it should be, when all of a sudden the temp will fairly quickly and steadily climb up to 210-230 and stay there until I shut the car off. When I shut off the car, the temp would drop back down VERY quickly. It'll drop down to an indicated 160 within literally 3-4 seconds, then finally goes back up to around 180-190 again and stay there.

Twice when this occurred, I was able to stop and shut off the car right away. Like I said, the temp quickly dropped down to like 160 and I could hear a bubbling/gurgling noise under the hood. Once I got to the front of the car I couldn't hear the bubbling noise, and there was no sign of coolant boiling over, and the coolant level was the same.

I figured the problem may be to do with lack of airflow or a clogged radiator, since it occurred on the highway. So I had my current 3-row radiator cleaned and rodded out, and replaced the T-stat with a 180 unit and drilled a bleed hole in it. I filled the cooling system with coolant and distilled water with the front of the car in the air to hopefully bleed any air out. The water pump is a couple of months old and the rad cap is a week old.

I was hoping my problems were solved after having the rad cleaned and replacing the t-stat, but the same thing happened. I was on a pretty deserted stretch of highway, so I shut off the engine and let it coast at 65+mph. Same thing, temp dipped to 160 quickly and came back up to 190ish. I then "push started" the engine back up in 5th gear and was able to get the temp to do this a couple of more times. So apparently it has nothing to do with airflow, since the same thing occurred both at 65mph and at a stop.

There is no rhyme or reason for this. It'll happen when driving steadily at the same speed on flat land. The gauge is a brand new Sunpro mechanical unit. I bought it to temporarily replace the Autometer mechanical one I had, which was also acting weirdly. I honestly don't think it's possible for the coolant temp to drop from 230 to 160 as quickly as the gauge would indicate. It just goes down too fast, and then goes back up. Makes no sense to me at all.

There are no signs of actual overheating. Coolant level stays the same, no boiling over or missing coolant. My electric fan appears to be working correctly, and there are no leaks. No coolant in oil or oil in coolant. No pinging when the temp gauge indicated the car was running hot. I just don't see any signs of overheating. I'd think the gauge was bad, but like I said, I just replaced it.

The ONLY thing I saw which I'm not sure is normal is the level of the coolant in the radiator sort of heaved up and down while the engine was running while hot. But I can see coolant flowing through the radiator and no bubbles.

Does anyone have any clue what's up here? I AM STUMPED and tired of replacing things!
 
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Unless I missed something, I didn't read anything about an aftermarket gauge in there. Stock gauges are the biggest piece of trash to ever grace the dashboard of a Mustang. I read somewhere that the stock temperature gauge won't read above 210* or so until extreme temperatures are reached, when it will suddenly jump up. So they don't give you any warning if you're about to overheat. My stock gauge is absolute garbage. It will read "N" for 180* one time, then 10 minutes later, it will read "M" and my autometer will still be reading 180*, so if you don't have one already, get an aftermarket one, then know how hot/cold you car ACTUALLY is.

LTDScott said:
The gauge is a brand new Sunpro mechanical unit. I bought it to temporarily replace the Autometer mechanical one I had, which was also acting weirdly.

Son of a bitch, I just saw that. :doh: Did you get your t-stat in the right way when you switched to the 180*? I know it sounds dumb, but a simple mistake like that can cause all sorts of problems.
 
Chris is right on (Chris, I sent you a PM about the OP line stuff you were thinking about doing - on the Corral, BTW).

when you shut the motor down, there should be no quick temp changes one way or the other. Usually heat soak sets in and the temps rise a bit (10-20*) before they EVER start to fall. If this was per a mech gauge, I would be doubting the gauge. if per electric, I would double check (though I am sure you have done so already) all the connections. I would also put a temporary ground on the sending unit (if electric) to be sure you have a proper ground to the sender itself (which it requires).

Also, are you sure the system is holding pressure? 16 PSI will raise the effective boiling point ~48*F (the part about hearing bubbling, etc is making me wonder).

my random thoughts. good luck.
 
HISSIN50 said:
Chris is right on (Chris, I sent you a PM about the OP line stuff you were thinking about doing - on the Corral, BTW).

when you shut the motor down, there should be no quick temp changes one way or the other. Usually heat soak sets in and the temps rise a bit (10-20*) before they EVER start to fall. If this was per a mech gauge, I would be doubting the gauge. if per electric, I would double check (though I am sure you have done so already) all the connections. I would also put a temporary ground on the sending unit (if electric) to be sure you have a proper ground to the sender itself (which it requires).

Also, are you sure the system is holding pressure? 16 PSI will raise the effective boiling point ~48*F (the part about hearing bubbling, etc is making me wonder).

my random thoughts. good luck.


I completely agree about the temp changing so fast. Just doesn't seem possible to me. My car has an electric fan with a DC Control unit, so if the temp did start to creep up, the fan would speed up.

The gauges are mechanical. If the engine ground wasn't good, I figured I'd have a lot of other problems.

I replaced the radiator cap with no change. I think I'll rent a pressure tester from the part store to see if the system will hold pressure or not.
 
gotcha - I was hoping you might have electrical gauges and it was an electrical issue. schucks.

the last thing I can think of is to make sure you dont have an air pocket in there (has the system been opened up down low lately? opening the system for the rad. rod should have been no biggie).

a free check of the system to make sure it is holding pressure sounds good (given the gurgling noises you hear, etc).

Sorry I cant think of more stuff. Good luck and bump.
 
HISSIN50 said:
the last thing I can think of is to make sure you dont have an air pocket in there (has the system been opened up down low lately? opening the system for the rad. rod should have been no biggie).

That's an excellent idea. I would imagine if there were air bubbles in the system, it could cause erratic temperature changes. If you need to flush it, there's a drain plug on the bottom of the radiator. You could try that.
 
ALMOSTFINISHED said:
I see that you changed the guage because the autometer took a dump. Did you change the sending unit when yu changed the guage? If the car has ever overheated a bit it can damage the sending unit to in-turn give a false reading. Just a thought

Nick

This was a MECHANICAL gauge, so there isn't an actual sending unit, really. The gauge/tube/sending unit are all one piece and cannot be disconnected.

The real reason I changed it was because for a long time I had the temp sender for the gauge screwed into the back of the intake. I had read from several sources that the back of the intake is not a good location to have the gauge sender, because the temp readings are not accurate. So I moved the gauge to the front of the intake where the factory temp sender is, and after that the temp gauge pegged the top end of the scale as soon as I started up the car. I figured I must have damaged the tubing or something, so I bought the Sunpro gauge from Autozone as a temporary replacement.

But after all of the weird temp readings that I have been seeing, I'm not positive the first Autometer gauge was actually bad or not.

I have thought about an air bubble in the system, but I did everything I could to avoid this. I drilled a bleed hole in the t-stat, lifted the front of the car and turned on the heater while filling the coolant, etc. If there was an easy way to add coolant to the top of the intake somehow, I would.
 
LTDScott said:
I have thought about an air bubble in the system, but I did everything I could to avoid this. I drilled a bleed hole in the t-stat, lifted the front of the car and turned on the heater while filling the coolant, etc. If there was an easy way to add coolant to the top of the intake somehow, I would.

Have you tried just burping it?
 
89sleeper, I never thought of a turkey baster. I think I might give that a try.

I still have the Autometer gauge in the car and the sender is still sitting on the intake, so I might try to hook it back up and see what happens.

sgarlic, what exactly do you mean by burping it?

86bluecobra, I don't see any signs of a blown HG (creamy oil, bubbles in coolant, steam from tailpipe, etc), but I am going to rent a pressure tester to see what happens.
 
If it's a 5.o disconnect the small hoses at the throttle body to let air escape...Generally the highest part of the cooling system...

Run it w/o a thermostat and see what happens...Or replace it, you can get a bad one new...Double check it's in right, I always have to double check because I can never remember, I think the spring goes toward the block...Check it in a pan of boiling water on the stove to see if it opens at about the right temp. If the waters boiling it should be fully open...Same for the temp gauge, put the sender in a pan of water...

The "wire" connecting the sender and gauge is kind of fragile, no sharp bends or kinks...

Just throwing out ideas....
 
Well out of curiosity I hooked my Autometer gauge back up. When I had the sender out, I also filled the intake with water using a turkey baster. It took a fair bit of water. In fact the water level would rise to the top and then go back down every time I filled it with water. I basically added as much water to it as I could, then hooked the Autometer gauge back up.

Drove it from my parents' place (where the car usually resides) to my condo on the freeway and street and the temp stayed pretty solidly at 190. Not sure why it would be at 190 since the t-stat is 180, but at this point I don't care much. 190 is acceptable to me.

So I have no idea what went on. Maybe both gauges were bad. Unfortunately Autozone didn't have a pressure tester to rent, so I couldn't see if it was holding pressure. I'll do that tomorrow. I'm just going to drive the car to and from work for a couple of days to see how the temp gauge acts.