Weird timing problem

#21
I did a search in this forum and follwed the instructions. I guess there are a few diffrent ways but I have done this now 4 times and like the following method: Find TDC for #1 on the compression stroke
Loosen poly locks and wait for the lifter to bleed
Tighten poly locks by hand until slight resistant is felt on push rod
Tighten 3/4 turn and lock set screw
Turn crank clockwise 1/4 turn and adjust next valves following the firing order. When done checking one last turn of the crank puts me back at TDC #1 compression stroke. I hope this is right and worked for me 3 diffrent times I adjusted them.
I used the 3/4 turn as specified by Trick Flow. I suppose anywhere between 1/2 and 3/4 is acceptable.
 

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#22
Ok, Im still having the problem and need some info. Which variables control timing? If the car will only start with the dist in a postion that is touching the T stat housing, ie timing retarded, which sensors would cause the computer to take timing out? Maybe fuel pressure or bad sensor?? When I get the car running it sounds like sh#@. I go to adjust timing to advance it and dies. Everytime I have adjusted timing before, advacing would never kill the car.
 
#23
sweet88gt said:
Ok, Im still having the problem and need some info. Which variables control timing? If the car will only start with the dist in a postion that is touching the T stat housing, ie timing retarded, which sensors would cause the computer to take timing out? Maybe fuel pressure or bad sensor?? When I get the car running it sounds like sh#@. I go to adjust timing to advance it and dies. Everytime I have adjusted timing before, advacing would never kill the car.
Click to expand...
What timing are you reading with a timing light? The fact that you are hitting the stat housing could only mean that the dizzy was tossed into the lower in a funky position. There is no such thing as being one tooth off, SO long as you can rotate the dizzy to get it into time.

You asked, Ill try to answer: If your SPOUT connector is out, timing will be fixed and retarded. An ECT out of calibration can cause timing to be pulled.

I did not read all this, but if not mentioned, if you tossed the dizzy in on the exhaust stroke, it will run look total poop.

Good luck.
 
#24
The timing is read with spout-10BTDC
Timing read without spout as I would normally when setting timing 10ATDC.
The timing seems to be fixed when spout is disconnected and as soon as it is unplugged the car wants to die, move the dist to advance an will always die immmedately as soon as it begins to turn.
Im 100% sure of the compression stroke TDC as pulled the #1 plug rotate crank with finger over plug hole until compresion pushes my finger away and timing pointer is at 0 TDC on balancer.
 
#25
is it missing when it is running ????? if so check the plug wire routing and the injector harness wiring , Tmoss used to have a wiring diagram that had the colors of the wires going to each injector
 
#27
sweet88gt said:
I did a search in this forum and follwed the instructions. I guess there are a few diffrent ways but I have done this now 4 times and like the following method: Find TDC for #1 on the compression stroke
Loosen poly locks and wait for the lifter to bleed
Tighten poly locks by hand until slight resistant is felt on push rod
Tighten 3/4 turn and lock set screw
Turn crank clockwise 1/4 turn and adjust next valves following the firing order. When done checking one last turn of the crank puts me back at TDC #1 compression stroke. I hope this is right and worked for me 3 diffrent times I adjusted them.
I used the 3/4 turn as specified by Trick Flow. I suppose anywhere between 1/2 and 3/4 is acceptable.
Click to expand...

so you have pedistal mount rockers? when i first started building my motor i kept doing mine wrong and i fouled out 2 sets of plugs while tring to get em right ... i think its out of time there try it again maybe your valves are hanging open

POLY LOCK NUT ADJUSTMENT FOR HYDRAULIC CAMS
1) INSTALL POLY-LOCK WITH HEX END UP. THREAD IN SET SCREWS A FEW TURNS WITH HOLLOW HEX END UP.
2) MAKE SURE LIFTER IN ON THE HEEL OF THE CAM.
3) IN ORDER TO GET A "FEEL" FOR THE PRESSURE OF PUSHROD AGAINST LIFTER CUP, PUSH THE PUSHROD INTO THE LIFTER BY HAND SO YOU CAN FEEL IT'S SPRING TENSION. TIGHTEN POLY LOCK SLOWLY WHILE MOVING THE PUSHROD UP AND DOWN, BEING CAREFUL TO STOP TURNING THE POLY-LOCK JUST AS THE PUSHROD TOUCHES THE LIFTER CUP, AND THE UP AND DOWN FREE PLAY IS TAKEN UP.
4) NOW TURN THE POLY LOCK ONE MORE "FLAT", OR A SIXTH OF A TURN. HOLD THE POLY LOCK IN THAT LOCATION WITH A BOX END WRENCH. TURN THE INSIDE ALLEN SET SCREWS DOWN UNTIL IT CONTACTS THE ROCKER STUD. SNUG IT WITH THE PALM OF YOUR HAND. DO NOT TIGHTEN!
5) WITH THE BOX END WRENCH IN ONE HAND AND THE ALLEN WRENCH, TURN BOTH TOGETHER UNTIL THEY TIGHTEN, OR APPROXIMATELY 25 TO 30 FT. LBS. THEY MUST BE TIGHT, BUT YOU DON'T WANT TO BE AN APE EITHER. USE COMMON SENSE.
 
#28
sweet88gt said:
It is for sure missing, never had the car sound like it does now. I even tried to get it to go under power and forget it, would tach to maybe 1500 rpm and lose all forward movement.
Click to expand...


crossed plug wire !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
#29
The RR are stud mounted. I followed the instruction sheet from Trick Flow and double checked my work with the search in this forum.
As for the crossed wire, man I wish it was. I have checked this numerous times and in fact Im going outside now to check again.
I removed the upper intake and checked the injector wiring harness and seems to be in order.All of the wiring is in good shape.
Is there a way to test the dist?? I am sure I have followed the correct procedures to complete this task. Yet no progress.
 
#30
Man I just got thru going through putting an engine in my car with about the same kind of problem. You know how the oil pump shaft is a six sided rod, when mine was not pulling under load I found out that I teh dizzy and the rod were lining up but not in conjunction with the piston I was like 3/4 stroke off (how I got that way I do not know). Not to mention I had about 3 of my stock injectors not firing. I also had the heads off put in an oil pumpand changed intakes. I had to get a friend who does nothing by the book to diagnose my prob and sure nuff he was right. Hope that helps.

Nate
 
#32
your folwing adjustments for pedistal mount rockers . studmount are a little differnt .stud mount dont have poly locks they have regaular locking nuts. imo 3/4 of a turn is to much at the end its only suppose to be like an 1/8 of a turn like i said before your vavles are hagging open

im gunna search and find the right instruction i know how but i have horiblr grammer....:)
 
#33
1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the pre-load on. Only do one cylinder at a time.

2. Rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation (clockwise) and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm.

3. To adjust, back off the intake rocker arm adjusting nut and remove any tension from the push rod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the push rod seat up against the retaining lock, if you give it time to do so.

4. Twist the intake push rod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the push rod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to three-quarters of a turn from that point for street applications. Use 1/8 to 1/4 turn for race applications. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.

5. Continue to turn the engine, watching that same intake valve/rocker you just set. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.

6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.

There may be some initial valvetrain noise when the engine is first fired up but once oil pressure has stabilized and the engine heats up, it should quiet right down to a normal level.

Remember that some racier camshafts will have a mechanical sound to them and will not be a silent as factory units.
__________________
HOPE I COULD HELP.... i know i havent been on here very much lately but i realy belive this is your problem give it a try this way your valves are hanging open
 
#34
with the way the rod was positioned versus the position of the piston (TDC) the only two places for the rotor to point was either at the #5 or #8 (seeing as how the engine I dropped in was a non ho) or for the ho #3 or #8. Me, never putting an engine into a car let along rebuilding one, turned the crank tryng to get to line up. when I thought I did I was off on the stroke. I got the stroke lined up and then the dizzy lined up, I was on the exhaust stroke, car wouldn't run for ***** let alone pull.I too did the plug #1 cyl and three times that didn't work, engine rolled too far over to be propperly timed. I finally hit it by plugging the #1 and barely bumping it then manually rolled the engine back to actually tdc and it has been right ever since.

But I don't have roller rockers,mas air, or any other mods other than exhaust.

Hope this helps,
Nate
 
#35
sweet88gt said:
Ok, Im still having the problem and need some info. Which variables control timing? If the car will only start with the dist in a postion that is touching the T stat housing, ie timing retarded, which sensors would cause the computer to take timing out? Maybe fuel pressure or bad sensor?? When I get the car running it sounds like sh#@. I go to adjust timing to advance it and dies. Everytime I have adjusted timing before, advacing would never kill the car.
Click to expand...
Perhaps you've fixed your own problem and don't even know it. Anybody else notice he said dist. touching the t-stat housing, and he then said "timing retarded"
How about advanced.......
 
#36
Update

I finally got it running and pleased that it wasnt too bad. I took all of the advice and I thank you all. It ended up being a problem with the dizzy. The Hall effect sensor I assume. I stabbed an old dizzy with my old TFI and got a base time of 8 degrees BTC. I then restabbed the dizzy moving the TFI mark at a diffrent location and timed out just as needed. Ill tell you that this last couple of weeks has tested my will and came close a couple of times of just giving up. Thanks :D
 
#37
oooh oooh i know!

I had this problem too!!! you said you replaced the heads right??? and that involves resealing the lower intake and plenum right???? try squirting some brake clean where the lower meets the plenum or the lower meats the block. Mine was pissing some oil out the back too but the idle problem was the same as you described. give it a shot!


Oh, maybe before i wrote this i should have read the last tread!!! HaHa :rlaugh:
 
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