fox racer
Member
the cobra intakes actually dont. the line you are looking at (inlet tube, just after the TB) is the line coming from the EVAP canister.
Bypassing the throttle body coolant lines?
- Thread starter warpd
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mine have been removed for 2 years, running the same throttle body and gaskets. I've experienced no problems.
larrendeuce
Member
fox racer said:
I looked at several cobra intakes, I have never had one though. I was led to believe it was a coolant tube since some I have seen have them and some are capped off. I thought that line connects to the vacuum tree under the upper manifold.
rsw007
New Member
like o4sleeper said dont do it unless you block off the egr gasses. it is the to cool the egr down from the hot exhast gasses going through it mine has been blocked and bypasses for a few years. we dont have emissions.
payupsucka
Member
04sleeper
Founding Member
View attachment 492717
That hose you see right behind the throttle body is a vacuum line not a coolant line.
Most people just use the vacuum lines under the intake and block that one off.
That hose you see right behind the throttle body is a vacuum line not a coolant line.
Most people just use the vacuum lines under the intake and block that one off.
disconect them, but first
we just put a 93 Mustang GT on the dyno and found that removing/bypassing the coolant lines to the EGR spacer does make a 5-6hp difference, but only if you block off the egr passage between the upper and lower intake. No check engine lights and quicker throttle response. 1/2" NPT plug threads right in. (available at any hardware store) Cold weather drivablitiy my suffer slighty though. FYI we also found another 3hp by moving the Air Temperature Sensor to the air box. Not bad for 30 mins of time and $5.00 worth of parts.
we just put a 93 Mustang GT on the dyno and found that removing/bypassing the coolant lines to the EGR spacer does make a 5-6hp difference, but only if you block off the egr passage between the upper and lower intake. No check engine lights and quicker throttle response. 1/2" NPT plug threads right in. (available at any hardware store) Cold weather drivablitiy my suffer slighty though. FYI we also found another 3hp by moving the Air Temperature Sensor to the air box. Not bad for 30 mins of time and $5.00 worth of parts.
mustangramair
Member
After i put my explorer intake on i had to cap the lines and i was worried about the consequences, so i went to a Ford Service department and they told me those lines are a Pre-heater as shakerhood stated. They told me not to be worried, but i am just going off what they said and i haven't had any problems.
$uperstang
New Member
Guys guys guys, The coolant lines that go the the EGR are in fact Pre-heating lines, they have nothing to do with cooling the EGR what so ever. Too many people associate coolant with cooling and that in fact is not what these lines do with respect to the EGR spacer lines. They actually heat the EGR plate to prevent it from getting too cold as it is the furthest away from the block. The line You see on the Cobra intake above infact does go to the charcoal canister and has nothing to do with coolant like the stock HO intake. FOrd made improvents in 1993 and one improvement was removing these lines from the cobra intake, whay you ask, Because it makes more power and serves no purpose.
Thanks
Thanks
your right I wasn't thinking when I typed that up, what I meant and should have wrote was, I'm sure the coolant lines help keep the throttle body at a constant temperature in fact cooling it when the EGR gasses are running through and heating up the spacer, as well as a pre-heater for the throttle body. Your right Ford intended it to be solely a Pre-Heater.
Us old guys just remember the day when we used to block off the EGR passage on Carb intakes between the heads and the intake to pick up a few extra HP. I'm sure thats why we noticed a difference in HP on our Dyno, not just because we had the coolant lines bypassed or not. I'm sure having both the EGR and the hot coolant lines bypassed/blocked is why we got a cooler charge and picked up a few HP.
There really isn't much difference in the carb and EFI set ups when you use the old tricks on the new EFI cars, you still seem to pick up a few hp from spacers, cooler charge, and bigger carbs or TB's.
Having fun and helping each other out is what its all about! Thats what I like about this Forum stuff! Although I've seen a few people who like to bust other peoples &@!!& from time to time for whatever reason.
Us old guys just remember the day when we used to block off the EGR passage on Carb intakes between the heads and the intake to pick up a few extra HP. I'm sure thats why we noticed a difference in HP on our Dyno, not just because we had the coolant lines bypassed or not. I'm sure having both the EGR and the hot coolant lines bypassed/blocked is why we got a cooler charge and picked up a few HP.
There really isn't much difference in the carb and EFI set ups when you use the old tricks on the new EFI cars, you still seem to pick up a few hp from spacers, cooler charge, and bigger carbs or TB's.
Having fun and helping each other out is what its all about! Thats what I like about this Forum stuff! Although I've seen a few people who like to bust other peoples &@!!& from time to time for whatever reason.
$uperstang
New Member
This is a source of great debate. THere is more than one article out there which depicts the coolant lines being there to cool down the EGR-related temperature increase in the intake.
Seems to me that a heat-riser (which you old carbed guys remember) from the headers to the TB would have been a much more efficient medium to get the intake tract warm, and would do so much quicker than coolant would.
The debate continues.........
Seems to me that a heat-riser (which you old carbed guys remember) from the headers to the TB would have been a much more efficient medium to get the intake tract warm, and would do so much quicker than coolant would.
The debate continues.........
On another kind of related topic, if you want to see how much difference there is in HP from bocking the EGR passage, (and not using coolant lines) I'll see if I can find the dyno sheets on my sons car when we tested 2 different year Ford Explorer intakes on his 5.0 LX. One with the EGR passage and the other was from another year Explorer that had no EGR provissions (non-EGR version). If I remember right we found nearly a 10hp difference between the 2 intakes (non-EGR Version won) We don't use the coolant lines on any of our cars, so those weren't a facter in that test. I should start a thread with our dyno results on many little things we do that we pick up a couple of HP on each of them.
I ran my 5.0 with the coolant lines blocked off for years when I installed my Cobra intake. Never had any problem. I think it's BS that the coolant line is supposed to "cool" the EGR... think about it, engine coolant isn't exactly cold!!!?? LOL
And by the time those small amount of exhaust gases have reached the tb/EGR, they have cooled down tremendously already.
My take on it, is that it won't hurt a THING; but on the other hand, any expected GAIN is unnoticeable.
And by the time those small amount of exhaust gases have reached the tb/EGR, they have cooled down tremendously already.
My take on it, is that it won't hurt a THING; but on the other hand, any expected GAIN is unnoticeable.
joel5.0
New Member
Pro Mod said:
They are for cooling purposes, reason why on the CFI version of the '85 5.0L, a TSB was generated by Ford (TSB Ref. #: 86-2-22) requiring the "EGR cooler assy." removal, the installation of a carbon trap and the capping of the coolant hose. Apparently the cooling effect helped in the carbon buildup.
On the exhaust gasses been colder than the coolant...think about it...if the EGR is closed all the time, it shouldn't heat up (no exhaust flow) but, taking into consideration the fact that the EGR valve only operates at part throttle under load conditions, those gasses will be hotter than the coolant. Reason why its configured that way OEM style. You can check that reasoning if you have access to a 4.9L F150 EGR setup (external exhaust tube). Unbolt the EGR exhaust supply tube and attach a rubber hose band arround the EGR valve end of the tube, allowing exhaust to escape to the atmosphere, start the engine and you'll see how the rubber band starts to burn within minutes. However, if you plug the tube end (no exhast gasses flow) with a rubber plug, it won't get hot at all.
The best way around eliminating those hoses is to eliminate the exhaust flow by blocking the heads center exhaust passages and use the EGR spacer as a way to cool the air intake. Reason why you see that 6-8HP differential. My 2¢.
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