Welding (and other) help please?

[68Rustangs]

Some of you may remember my post a while back on weather to save my 68 or not and i decided to go through with it. I know it is going to take time but it will be fun. I will have pics on the way soon. Just have to figure how to upload them onto the thread.
My main question is i am searching for a welder that will do the job. Not too worried about the welds being pretty so i can go gasless. My main problem is i have no 220 plug in my garage so i am stuck with a 120. Has anyone used the Clarke 130 and if so would it do the trick? I am almost at the point of no return (about to dismantle the front suspension) and would be in a bit of a spot if the welder i choose didn't do the job. Thanks for the help in advance.
Ryan

 

[danny clemens]

I have a small Lincoln 110V that does great on sheet metal but I do have gas. I know it will be more expensive but go with gas and you'll be much happier in the long run.

 

[snottystang]

I picked this up for 400. They retail for just over 600 hundred in Home depot up here.

http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/literature/e7351.pdf

 

[Ping254]

I've used several 110v welders, including some of the cheap brands from Harbor Freight as well as one from Lincoln. I've had the one below from Northern Tool for about a year and it's the best one I've ever had. I would definitely go with gas, and this unit comes with everything you need to hook up the gas. It's a 135 amp 110v welder w/ 4 voltage levels. Plus it's on sale for 299 right now.

Don't scimp on the welder. Spend a few extra dollars and get a good one.


http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200332691_200332691

 

[snottystang]

That looks very similar to my lincoln, just yellow instead of red.

 

[fasttback]

My current welder is an older Clarke 100 and it does well for my Mustang's needs. Its limit is around 3/16" (which covers most metal on a Mustang). I've used it with flux-core and gas and I would highly recommend the getting the gas.

Since the Clarke 100 does have it limits, my next welder will be a 220v version.

 

[68Rustangs]

I was thinking about the Clarke because i know they are made by Miller and i can get one with a cart and all the atachments for under 400. Are you guys using the smaller size bottles for the shielding gas and if so how much do you get out of them before you have to exchange your bottle? Im just wondering with the mini bottles if i am going to have to exchange it frequently. Im going to install new torque boxes soon and frame rails. I would hope one bottle would last for at least that.

 

[68Rustangs]

Also i have a 289 and auto tranny with the car from the guy i bought it from.(not the original motor or trans) Are there date codes on the engine and tranny so i could tell what year it came from? Or how can i tell what type of heads are on it without removing them just yet? It might not even be out of a mustang. Dont know if i am going to use it yet because i dont know if i can get the power im looking for out of a 289 so i was thinking about parting out the engine and selling the transmission.

 

[fasttback]

I was thinking about the Clarke because i know they are made by Miller and i can get one with a cart and all the atachments for under 400. Are you guys using the smaller size bottles for the shielding gas and if so how much do you get out of them before you have to exchange your bottle? Im just wondering with the mini bottles if i am going to have to exchange it frequently. Im going to install new torque boxes soon and frame rails. I would hope one bottle would last for at least that.

Usually the bigger bottle you go with - the better deal you get with the gas. I went with a moderate size (80).

 

[fasttback]

Also i have a 289 and auto tranny with the car from the guy i bought it from.(not the original motor or trans) Are there date codes on the engine and tranny so i could tell what year it came from? Or how can i tell what type of heads are on it without removing them just yet? It might not even be out of a mustang. Dont know if i am going to use it yet because i dont know if i can get the power im looking for out of a 289 so i was thinking about parting out the engine and selling the transmission.

The engine production and date codes should be on the bottom of the block near the starter (or where the starter would normally be located). I've heard mixed things about the date code locations, so see what you have. Your 289 block should read: C5AE-6015-. The date code will be right above it (sometimes this date code is stamped on the top of the block near cylinder #5 on the front of the engine.

You can get most of the info on the heads by pulling a valve cover. It should have either a 289, 302, or 351 stamped on them between rocker studs. If you have rail rockers it's 1967+ if not, pre 1967 (unless they were modified already).

Post your numbers if you like.

 

[68Rustangs]

The numbers i found (after some MINOR degreasing) are
C5AE-6015-E (what does the E mean?)
and above that
6M21

is that the date code and if so how do you decode it?
Thanks for the help

 

[fasttback]

The numbers i found (after some MINOR degreasing) are
C5AE-6015-E (what does the E mean?)
and above that
6M21

is that the date code and if so how do you decode it?
Thanks for the help

1965 production block.

Actual date made 6 = 1966, M = December, 21 = 21st day. Probably belongs to a 1967 model.


Not positive what the "E" means - either where the block was made or a minor change was made to the original C5AE block design.

 

[Ping254]

Go with an 80 if you can. I went with a 20 and that lasted me about enough time to do the front, passenger's side floor pan on my mustang. I quickly upgraded to the 80. Like fastback said, the bigger bottle will save you money in the long run. Over time the savings from gas refills will pay for the larger bottle.

I would also suggest going to a local welding shop and buying/renting a bottle from them. It's much cheaper than going to the big chain stores.

 

[68Rustangs]

Thanks for the decoding fasttback. i am debating on wether or not to keep it or go with a bigger v8. I heard that the 289 can accept 302 internal parts. Is that true? And is there a stroker kit available for the 289? Just looking at crate engine prices it almost seems cheaper to buy a crate than the machine shop work,heads,ect to rebuild the 289. Im looking for somewhere around 300 hp. dont think i can get that out of a 289 without pushing my luck. if i sold this motor would it be better to part it out heads,carb ect. or to sell it whole and what do u think a fair price would be? Thanks for the help guys. This is my first resto project. Ill probably go with the 80 bottle. Thanks ping.

 

[fasttback]

Thanks for the decoding fasttback. i am debating on wether or not to keep it or go with a bigger v8. I heard that the 289 can accept 302 internal parts. Is that true? And is there a stroker kit available for the 289? Just looking at crate engine prices it almost seems cheaper to buy a crate than the machine shop work,heads,ect to rebuild the 289. Im looking for somewhere around 300 hp. dont think i can get that out of a 289 without pushing my luck. if i sold this motor would it be better to part it out heads,carb ect. or to sell it whole and what do u think a fair price would be? Thanks for the help guys. This is my first resto project. Ill probably go with the 80 bottle. Thanks ping.

Your 289 is a good block if it can be cleaned up and if it's not bored over too much (0.030+) already. You can keep this block and make 300+ streetable HP without pushing your luck. Or it can be stroked (@ 0.030 over to a 306, 331, or 347 with the appropriate cranks (3.00, 3.25, or 3.40" stroke). Another option is using a 351W block (this can also be stroked).

If you're new to rebuilding motors, a matched engine kit or a crate motor is a good option. Lots of variables to consider, so this is just a start.

 

[CarFreakGT]

The numbers i found (after some MINOR degreasing) are
C5AE-6015-E (what does the E mean?)
and above that
6M21

is that the date code and if so how do you decode it?
Thanks for the help

Additional info RE: the casting number you gave:

C5 = 1965
A = Ford (Carline)
E = part produced for the (E)NGINEERING Group

6015 = Basic Part Number; 6015 is the part # for a cylinder block

E = Suffix; This indicates the revision under the part number. "A" indicates an original part. "B" is a first revision, "C" is a second revision, and so on. Therefore, an "E" is a fourth revision.

This info came from the book by George Reid in the link below, just in case you're interested in checking it out. You can search for it online or in bookstores if you give the ISBN # of the book. The chart w/ the above info is on p. 27 in my copy, but it looks like the one in the link may be a new printing--the cover is different than mine. Good luck w/ your project, and in your engine decision!

George Reid, "How to Build Max Performance Ford V-8's on a Budget" (ISBN # 1-884089-55-0) on amazon.com:
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Perform...50/ref=sr_11_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1196083046&sr=11-1

 

[NasaGT]

I went with a 40 bottle. I'm pretty happy with it, I can do a fair amount of welding before it needs a refill. The 40 is fairly mobile and its not too heavy and doesn't take up a huge amount of space.

 

[danny clemens]

I also have a 40. It's a good size to fit on my cart. When I do a lot of sheet metal welding it doesn't last a long time but when I'm not it lasts a long time. If you're planning on doing a few cars definately go with an 80. Overall I'm satisfied with the 40.

 

[xoxbxfx]

I always say save your money and buy the right one the first time. I dont ever recommend buying a cheap welder because a good brand machine holds its value if you ever have to sell it. I highly recommend Miller or Lincoln...Hobart is is made by Miller. Also, dont skimp on the gas...yes you can weld without it but take some pride in your work and do it right.

You dont need a 220 machine for anything on a mustang... Unless you are welding 1/4" steel all the time, you dont need it. Its nice if you ever do, but what you can do a car can be done with a 110v machine.

 

[68Rustangs]

Thanks for all the good advice. I may consider keeping the 289 and stroking it. i know it hasnt been boared out before. It still has the original carb and everything else on it so i doubt it has been fooled with. I have some time to think about it though. Im getting ready to do the torque boxes and frame rails in the next few months. I decided to go with the mustang2 front suspension kit as well. Just makes more sense cause all the old suspension parts are worn. It would cost almost as much to replace all those parts as the new kit. Im still gonna have to ditch the auto tranny though. i need a manual.

anyone had any expirence with replacing the cowl side pannels? i can alwaus cut out the bad spots and weld in patches using pieces from a new side pannel but if i have the whole new pannel (there only 40 bucks a piece) i would just as soon replace the whole thing. Anyone done this before?