Who here has sprayed their car? Or atleast know of a nice brand gun i can buy. I wanna shoot of the inside of my notch and the door jams while i have it stripped. Figured i'd practice on spraying the interior stripped,aint gonna see it anyway.
Painting???
- Thread starter Saleen8786
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
87foxstang
Member
I sprayed my car using a top feed HVLP devilbis gun. Its a great gun, I would recommend it to you. They are a little pricey though but definitely worth it
Evilfox
New Member
I've used multiple guns to paint multiple cars, some cheap and some expensive. I've used cheap guns to spray metallic as well as expensive. Anyone who has been around paint for a few years will tell you that metallic is not only the hardest to spray effectively but it is also sensitive to the quality of gun you are using.
You CAN spray metallic while using a cheap(er) gun and still get very similar results but with a higher grade gun it will be much more forgiving in that your stroke doesn't have to be perfect for it to look good. I used a Titan HLVP to paint my car and the metallic looks just as good as it would from an Accu-spray or DeVilbiss. I would say that I did use more paint that an Accu-spray or DeVilbiss gun would have but the set I was using cost $149.99 for 3 guns while the Accu-spray costs ~$440 or the DeVilbiss which costs roughly $429.99.
Higher grade guns are much more forgiving with clearcoat as well. I'm not a professional painter by any means but I have done my fair share of paint jobs. I have used an Accuspray and gotten nearly 0 orange-peel/fat lady's ass on my clearcoat layers which is HIGHLY impressive. Considering you can get a reasonable gun for $89.99 from Ingersoll Rand and spend a little more time(~1-2 hours) wet sanding your final product to get it nice and flat. I really have a hard time justifying the cost for a one or two time project.
You CAN spray metallic while using a cheap(er) gun and still get very similar results but with a higher grade gun it will be much more forgiving in that your stroke doesn't have to be perfect for it to look good. I used a Titan HLVP to paint my car and the metallic looks just as good as it would from an Accu-spray or DeVilbiss. I would say that I did use more paint that an Accu-spray or DeVilbiss gun would have but the set I was using cost $149.99 for 3 guns while the Accu-spray costs ~$440 or the DeVilbiss which costs roughly $429.99.
Higher grade guns are much more forgiving with clearcoat as well. I'm not a professional painter by any means but I have done my fair share of paint jobs. I have used an Accuspray and gotten nearly 0 orange-peel/fat lady's ass on my clearcoat layers which is HIGHLY impressive. Considering you can get a reasonable gun for $89.99 from Ingersoll Rand and spend a little more time(~1-2 hours) wet sanding your final product to get it nice and flat. I really have a hard time justifying the cost for a one or two time project.
mustangjoe87
Member
For some one that is new to painting I would recommend a Devillbis GTI. It is a good all around gun that if it is cleaned properly will last for many years. Also a work of caution, buying any non name brand usually means no rebuild parts are available.
BK_CAULEY
it's built for speed not longevity, woman
i used a cheapo lowes kobalt brand hvlp gun to spray my jambs. use a single stage paint on jambs and under the hood. and im not surewhat i u on the body. it was a local paint and body shops gun and they obviously dont use crap cause my car turned out well.
and here is some good reading.
Paint Spray Gun - How To Pick A Paint Gun - Car Craft Magazine
and my car.
and here is some good reading.
Paint Spray Gun - How To Pick A Paint Gun - Car Craft Magazine
and my car.
Attachments
Evilfox
New Member
It depends on what kind of paint he wants to spray. Metallic and pearls are much harder to spray then the enamel you used. I personally wouldn't advise using single stage primer/paint as it doesn't have the properties that two-part mixes have in regards to curing/flashing. Even if you only do your door jambs and engine bay with it.
There is no reason that you should use a different paint for the engine bay etc. Waste of time to save a few dollars imo. Cutting corners is a good way to waste time and money.
Painted in Metallic Rosewood Grey.
Attachments
BK_CAULEY
it's built for speed not longevity, woman
i just wanna spray it black with a nice clear like Bk_Cauley notch. Can i get away with a kobolt gun??
BK_CAULEY
it's built for speed not longevity, woman
Before you get all revved up about buying a spray gun, make sure that your compressor and air filter/water trap is up to par. Running out of air because your compressor can't keep up with the needs of your spray gun is the pits. It also tends to make a poor quality job.
You'll need a minimum of a 60 gallon 5 HP compressor to keep up with the air demands of continuous spray painting. For some spray guns that use a LOT of air at 45-55 PSI, that might not be big enough. Check the spray gun CFM requirements against the air compressor CFM specs to make sure the compressor you use is big enough to do the job.
The air filter/water trap is very important: water in your air supply makes the paint job look bad. Oil or water in the air delivered to the spray gun will result in fish eye spots or discolorations. A good air filter/water trap will clean the air and remove the water. It will also have a regulator to drop the 90-135 PSI down to the recommended 25-55 PSI for most spray guns. For the best results, use a longer hose from the compressor to the air filter/water trap and a shorter hose from the air filter/water trap to the spray gun
Harbor Freight has some reasonably priced regulator/air filter/water traps. See Harbor Freight Tools for more info. I have one of the $30 units and it works very well.
I also have one of their $14 touch up mini spray guns that does great work where you would use a rattle can to spray small stuff.
See Harbor Freight Tools
You'll need a minimum of a 60 gallon 5 HP compressor to keep up with the air demands of continuous spray painting. For some spray guns that use a LOT of air at 45-55 PSI, that might not be big enough. Check the spray gun CFM requirements against the air compressor CFM specs to make sure the compressor you use is big enough to do the job.
The air filter/water trap is very important: water in your air supply makes the paint job look bad. Oil or water in the air delivered to the spray gun will result in fish eye spots or discolorations. A good air filter/water trap will clean the air and remove the water. It will also have a regulator to drop the 90-135 PSI down to the recommended 25-55 PSI for most spray guns. For the best results, use a longer hose from the compressor to the air filter/water trap and a shorter hose from the air filter/water trap to the spray gun
Harbor Freight has some reasonably priced regulator/air filter/water traps. See Harbor Freight Tools for more info. I have one of the $30 units and it works very well.
I also have one of their $14 touch up mini spray guns that does great work where you would use a rattle can to spray small stuff.
See Harbor Freight Tools
1. It's not the gun, it's the person. I used a 14.95 Harbor Freight non-HVLP spray gun in a jam and I actually really really liked it. Nice spray pattern and I did the same job as our expensive Devilbiss.
2. The compressor has a lot to do with it as well. Get one with a higher HP engine so it will not have to constantly run and run and run. A hot compressor is your enemy during paint because it may create condensation. A 220 compressor will have a good HP engine over the tank. 110 compressors will get the job done, just not as efficiently.
3. The environment is key as well. Clean and damp garage floor, clean walls, clean hands, clean towels. DO NOT get grease, wax, silicone or armoral near or on the car. Hello fisheyes and headaches if that happens.
4. Make sure you give the basecoats and the clear coats enough flash time between coats.
5. IMO one of the most important: DO NOT TRY AND COVER ON THE FIRST COAT!!! It will never happen. Spray nice even flowing coats, let them flash, then spray the 2nd coat.
6. Before spraying the whole car, buy a nice sealer and spray that over old paint/new primer. This fills all your sandscratches and prevents the paint from shriking on you. I will NEVER paint a whole car again without using it.
2. The compressor has a lot to do with it as well. Get one with a higher HP engine so it will not have to constantly run and run and run. A hot compressor is your enemy during paint because it may create condensation. A 220 compressor will have a good HP engine over the tank. 110 compressors will get the job done, just not as efficiently.
3. The environment is key as well. Clean and damp garage floor, clean walls, clean hands, clean towels. DO NOT get grease, wax, silicone or armoral near or on the car. Hello fisheyes and headaches if that happens.
4. Make sure you give the basecoats and the clear coats enough flash time between coats.
5. IMO one of the most important: DO NOT TRY AND COVER ON THE FIRST COAT!!! It will never happen. Spray nice even flowing coats, let them flash, then spray the 2nd coat.
6. Before spraying the whole car, buy a nice sealer and spray that over old paint/new primer. This fills all your sandscratches and prevents the paint from shriking on you. I will NEVER paint a whole car again without using it.
Similar threads
Paint and Body
Water collecting at the bottom of the rear window.
