What approach for a new engine?

[afterglow]

I have a 69 Mach 1, 351W, C6 that's been recently been (almost completely) restomodded. The only thing left untouched was the drivetrain since it was running fine.

It turns out that my engine needs to be rebuilt soon since it's smoking and losing oil. I already have a C4 that I'm planning to beef up. I wanna get a 393 stroker in there eventually and am wondering about the best way to approach it.

I live in the Philippines and getting a good bare block or any form of performance short/long blocks here is next to impossible which means I'll have to import which isn't a problem. My freight forwarder in SF can take care of my shipping needs. I'm wondering what the best approach would be. Should I import a good block and other parts and do the buildup myself?? I have access to a decent local machine shop and a mechanic buddy has promised to help me out if I go this way. Or should I import a shortblock/longblock?? There are some parts in my current engine that I'd want to reuse (oilpan, fuel pump, ignition, intake manifold).

I don't have much spare cash right now so being able to take my time in the spending department is the big priority...

Any suggestions?

 

[wicked93gs]

build it yourself using your existing block as a base, that will be your cheapest route, you'l also be able to re-use anything you want, after all, if its just burning oil there's nothing wrong with the block

 

[jspagna1]

build it yourself using your existing block as a base, that will be your cheapest route, you'l also be able to re-use anything you want, after all, if its just burning oil there's nothing wrong with the block

+1 This would definitely be the cheapest route. One suggestion though is if I was going this route, I would go with a 408 stroker.

Ford Stroker Kits from RPM Machines.

 

[afterglow]

That was a consideration at the outset but since it's going to be a slow buildup due to the budget and parts availability issues (shipping from the US takes around a month), that means that I won't be able to use the car for some time. I'd rather spend the extra for a block so that I won't have to yank the existing engine until the very last moment.

And the reason for the 393 (vs 408) is that I wanna reuse my headers (1-3/8 primaries) and intake manifold (Weiand Stealth) rather than get new ones. The 408 is just crying for 1-1/2" headers and a single plane...

BTW, any online sources for good blocks?

 

[stonecoldtx]

That was a consideration at the outset but since it's going to be a slow buildup due to the budget and parts availability issues (shipping from the US takes around a month), that means that I won't be able to use the car for some time. I'd rather spend the extra for a block so that I won't have to yank the existing engine until the very last moment.

And the reason for the 393 (vs 408) is that I wanna reuse my headers (1-3/8 primaries) and intake manifold (Weiand Stealth) rather than get new ones. The 408 is just crying for 1-1/2" headers and a single plane...

BTW, any online sources for good blocks?

It's unlikely that you have 1-3/8" headers; the tiny factory headers on 5.0L engines are 1-1/2", and most aftermarket manufacturers use 1-5/8" on all their primary tubes, so that's probably what you have instead.

A 393 or 408 would benefit by the use of 1-3/4" primary tubes instead of the much smaller 1-5/8" primaries you now have; unfortunately, very few companies build 1-3/4" primary tube headers for this application unless you have TFS Raised ports or AFR 205-225 heads, simply because of the bolt spacing on the ports.

Some people use "port plates" that bolt to the 351W pattern, and provide the 351C bolt pattern so they can use the larger tube headers available for that application, and that's a possible route for me as well when I install my 393.

As to whether you should just get a block and associated parts and have them shipped over to you, so you can have the machine work done locally and assemble it yourself, or buy the complete shortblock/longblock/engine will depend entirely on your wallet.

If you can afford it, an excellent choice would be the FRPP 392 engines that are available. They come with a 12mo/12000mile warranty, and though it might be a little difficult to get something like that warrantied while in the Phillippines, you won't get that kind of warranty at all with most or perhaps even all of the other options out there.

Good luck!

 

[afterglow]

Oops. You're totally correct on the header sizes.....I guess I was sleepy.

I asked around about header sizes before and their consensus was 1-5/8" would be okay for a street 393 that makes its power down low. For a 408 or a 393 with a peak a bit higher up, then a 1-3/4" is the way to go.

Or should I bite the bullet and dump my nice, nearly-new ceramic (but 1-5/8") Hookers?

 

[stonecoldtx]

Oops. You're totally correct on the header sizes.....I guess I was sleepy.

I asked around about header sizes before and their consensus was 1-5/8" would be okay for a street 393 that makes its power down low. For a 408 or a 393 with a peak a bit higher up, then a 1-3/4" is the way to go.

Or should I bite the bullet and dump my nice, nearly-new ceramic (but 1-5/8") Hookers?

With an engine that size, I think you would see an improvement across the board using larger tube headers . . . heck, the 351C headers have a default size of 1-3/4", which is why there are the plates I've described!!

As to whether you should dump the ones you have . . . well, they will definitely hold the power potential of this engine back, but headers are EXPENSIVE, so I couldn't attempt to make that decision for you, but if you want the most power that engine will make, eventually you may have to change them out . . .