car not warming up ?

niteninja87

New Member
May 26, 2009
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ok so i bought my car awhile back from iowa, i was driving home and it started to overheat got close to redline but never went into the red. it was low on coolant so i added some and the temp went down. but now it never seems to get up to the middle of the gauge. is it normal for the car to run that cool?

sorry about all the questions im new
 
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its all stock. how do i check the gauge?

and sorry for the question im about to ask im new to mustangs.

how can i tell if my car is a 4 speed auto or 3 speed because it has a b&m shifter in it and it has 1,2,D but im thinking that when on the hwy its running on high revs which gets me thinking that i should have one more gear
 
It sounds like your thermostat could be stuck open. Try letting the car come to temperature and then run the heat and then the air conditioning full blast. Operating temperature for our cars is 195-200 degrees, so if your car is running much too cool, it's going to affect performance and efficiency. If it won't warm up just take off the water neck and replace the thermostat with a 195* one. For all you know the previous owner could have put a 165* tstat in there and that's your problem. You could also try burping the coolant system by jacking the front of the car up as far as you (safely) can with the radiator cap off and the car running.

To be completely honest with you, the stock temperature gauge is pretty unreliable and more than likely highly inaccurate. I'd invest in some good gauges to monitor your engine if you plan on keeping it for a while. Water temperature and oil pressure is a good place to start. Good luck :nice:
 
It's arguable that mechanical are more accurate. I prefer their larger sweep (full sweep electric gauges are expensive).
A mech temp gauge is limited in that the capillary tubing controls where you can mount the gauge (it's only X feet long). And you need to get the large bulbous head through the firewall.

E -gauges are easier to intall and about as accurate. It's your call on which way to go.
 
Your main challenge will be getting the wiring or capillary tube through the firewall. Do not use the steering column exit path for any wiring or gauge plumbing. Make sure you seal any hole you drill in the firewall with high temp red silicone sealer.

Keep in mind that the capillary tube on mechanical temp gauges cannot be cut, shorted severely kinked or damaged in any way. It is one piece from the gauge to the temp bulb that goes in the engine coolant. Curl the excess capillary tube up somewhere so that it will not snag things or get damaged.

Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender: This will allow you to keep the stock gauge for looks. Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.

Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.

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