I've searched the forums and can't seem to find much info on shorty headers. The two posts that I DID find were negative. So the question is: With a stock H-midpipe, would a $300+ investment in shorty headers be worth it?
Help - Not Much Info on Shorty Headers
- Thread starter DawgStang
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You didn't find much because the power gains are minimal, while the labor and cost are relatively high. This makes the modification not worth your while. If you are going to go through the trouble of installing different header, definately go with long tubes. The gains are quite substantial across the power band.
Ok, so we're looking at LTs plus a shorty mid-pipe, of which I'd definitely go for an X. Looks like the bang for the buck just got cut in half. Thanks for the input, bhuff.
trombonedemon
Well-Known Member
Bang for the buck will be much higher with the long tubes. The shortys wouldn't give more than about 3hp and that would be at higher rpms where it isn't that usable. Long tubes on the other hand give 15+ hp and ft*lbs of torque which makes the power band broader and sweeter. After all, it is torque that makes a car feel fun. 
But personally, I'd save all that money for a supercharger. With what you would spend on long tubes and installation, you'll be well on your way to a blower.
Edit, as for the difference between the stock manifolds and headers... the stock manifold is some ugly stamped steel (I think?) collector that looks inefficient and poorly designed. Shorty headers will have actual tubes that come to a collector and mount up in the exact same location, giving a very minor power gain. To make a complicated thing simpler, the diameter and length of the primarys affects the efficient operating range. Long tube headers would promote mid range torque, while shorties just aren't ideal for any rpm that the 4.6 can run, plus being too small.
But personally, I'd save all that money for a supercharger. With what you would spend on long tubes and installation, you'll be well on your way to a blower.
Edit, as for the difference between the stock manifolds and headers... the stock manifold is some ugly stamped steel (I think?) collector that looks inefficient and poorly designed. Shorty headers will have actual tubes that come to a collector and mount up in the exact same location, giving a very minor power gain. To make a complicated thing simpler, the diameter and length of the primarys affects the efficient operating range. Long tube headers would promote mid range torque, while shorties just aren't ideal for any rpm that the 4.6 can run, plus being too small.
Blackone51
Member
- Oct 30, 2008
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Don't long tubes create an issue with clearance when your car is lowered. A fellow engineer at work has a sick turbo camaro with long tubes and it's slammed, he said if he could do it all over again he would have went with shorties. I don't know if mustangs are the same or different but when I put my ported and polished heads on my 98 gt I took his advice and just went with the shorties, I couldn't stand that scraping and banging for an extra 8 to 10 hp gain. I'm D1SC pro charged so I guess I don't need that extra little bit.
deftsound
Please ask me how much my supercharger cost
Shortys are a waste of money. Longtubes are where its at.
And yea longtubes could create a clearence issue depending on what your setup is. As long as your car isnt too slammed it will be fine though. The only time ive bottomed out on my headers is going over speed bumps.
LS1's have more issues with header clearence than mustangs. I think its because they have longer frames than the mustangs..
And yea longtubes could create a clearence issue depending on what your setup is. As long as your car isnt too slammed it will be fine though. The only time ive bottomed out on my headers is going over speed bumps.
LS1's have more issues with header clearence than mustangs. I think its because they have longer frames than the mustangs..
Stark77
Member
Forget about the shorties and go longtubes. They actually produce gains that are visible on a dyno chart - unlike the shorty's - and if you find a shop that knows what they're doing you can get it installed quick. Labor on my install was $250. My driver side header scrapes, just barely, and not even enough to see any scrape damage on the header itself. If you get one that bolts up instead of a weld-on set up then you can fix any damage that may result by just re-tightening the bolts/flange.
Appreciated, guys. I'll give up on the shorties and just grab a 70mm TB/plenum combo instead... LTs will have to wait a while...
32ValveRom
Member
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