347 stroker combo... good or bad???

Something is very wrong. Your intake will flow up to 400hp fine, it's not that. The heads aren't the best...but they're not e7s, and the cam is a decent grind. 24lb injectors are good for 350 to 400hp. And from what you're saying all the other components are there. Is it an AOD or T5 car? not that an automatic should drop you down to 248hp with that combo, you should still be in the 280-310 range depending on your tune. Get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and bump the timing to 12* for starters. How does the car run around town? Idle rough? bog at any certain RPMs? Pull a plug or two real quick and check out the color on them to make sure you're not super rich or leaned out.
 
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It is not just the intake. It is not just the heads. It is not just the camshaft. Tune and a possible mechanical issue is also likely.

Just because a 347 does not hit 400 RWHP, does not mean the end user is not happy.

Forget the criticism. A budget goes a long ways. The end user realizes there are better parts, but that is NOT the entire issue here.
 
347 combo

yeah so i went down to my guy that works on mustangs. i figured i spent this much why not actually do it right this time. i skimped on the parts didn't do good research, and well my ignition not working right may have something to do with this bad tune, and the cam isn't right either, the heads are okay, but the bottom line is quality parts give you good hp. here is what i'm thinking i'm going to do

Ford Z" heads or Brodix (KC LH F 17 195 195 cc 60 cc 2.020/1.600 Angle Standard 53/119 Small Block Ford )

I've looked around and i think my gt-40 intake is going to have to go for this setup, its a good intake but the TRICK FLOW TRACK HEAT will work better here

and my last major component is going to be a custom grind cam, i'm doing it the right way this time, expecting at least 350rwhp, should be achieveable

all this is going to cost around 3G plus some labor but in the end my car should be kick a**

If anyone thinks my current setup will net 300rwhp let me know
 
a cam with 218/226 @ .050 and that intake on a 347? define "works fine".

Yeah the cam may be a little anemic, but all I am saying is that you can still make some decent numbers with a GT-40 intake. I define "works fine" as an 11.22 time slip. Given that was on nitrous, I still turn easy 12.20s on just motor. Yes there are much better intakes out there, but all that really matters is that whoever spent the money on it likes it. I like mine.
 
yeah so i went down to my guy that works on mustangs. i figured i spent this much why not actually do it right this time. i skimped on the parts didn't do good research, and well my ignition not working right may have something to do with this bad tune, and the cam isn't right either, the heads are okay, but the bottom line is quality parts give you good hp. here is what i'm thinking i'm going to do

Ford Z" heads or Brodix (KC LH F 17 195 195 cc 60 cc 2.020/1.600 Angle Standard 53/119 Small Block Ford )

I've looked around and i think my gt-40 intake is going to have to go for this setup, its a good intake but the TRICK FLOW TRACK HEAT will work better here

and my last major component is going to be a custom grind cam, i'm doing it the right way this time, expecting at least 350rwhp, should be achieveable

all this is going to cost around 3G plus some labor but in the end my car should be kick a**

If anyone thinks my current setup will net 300rwhp let me know


before spending another dime contact camshaft innovations.
 
yeah so i went down to my guy that works on mustangs. i figured i spent this much why not actually do it right this time. i skimped on the parts didn't do good research, and well my ignition not working right may have something to do with this bad tune, and the cam isn't right either, the heads are okay, but the bottom line is quality parts give you good hp. here is what i'm thinking i'm going to do

Ford Z" heads or Brodix (KC LH F 17 195 195 cc 60 cc 2.020/1.600 Angle Standard 53/119 Small Block Ford )

I've looked around and i think my gt-40 intake is going to have to go for this setup, its a good intake but the TRICK FLOW TRACK HEAT will work better here

and my last major component is going to be a custom grind cam, i'm doing it the right way this time, expecting at least 350rwhp, should be achieveable

all this is going to cost around 3G plus some labor but in the end my car should be kick a**

If anyone thinks my current setup will net 300rwhp let me know

Suggestion..... if you're going to spend $3G + on top of what you have until now, and a custom cam grinder is in your plans, you may want to see what he can contribute in terms of defining your combo. A streetable 347, not capable of dialing low 11's mid 10's (based on the money you have + expect to spend now), or @400+ RWHP..... well, YCYDYP. You may also want to check this 306 setup as another example.
 
347 combo

well before i'm spending 3G i'm definitively going to tie up some loose ends, ie my ignition problem, my rear end that needs a rebuild and the u-joints. all these are some issues, but if you look at the date on my dyno it was three years ago and some but not all these were issues. a bad ignition which i surmise is likely a culprit of some crappy dyno numbers will be resolved this summer and i am going to make one last trip to the dyno with all the above items fixed. If i hit 300 rwhp or close then i will be happy, if not then next year i'm going to put my plan for my new top end into action. i know 3G sounds like a lot but if it gets my what i'm looking for i won't have to touch the car for a long time unless maintenance is needed. i can worry about some paint, and a body kit, k-member, and those stupid rear disc brakes i need. us stangers are never done, but crappy performance when you've spent thousands is disappointing. hopefully i get there. i will definitively post numbers on here when i get the dyno redone this summer. wish me luck.
 
Again, either your cam is installed somewhere it isn't supposed to be OR you have a serious issues with the mechanical integrity of the motor or trans OR based on your graph, you don't have a 347 and got sold some junk.

If i hit 300 rwhp or close then i will be happy

I helped build a 347 with ported e7s and BONE stock 60,000 mile valvetrain, a holley systemax, a f-cam, some junk sn95 mass air and 19# injectors that made 300rwhp.

If it were my car, I would check first to see if it is a 347, then check to see where the cam is installed then decided from there how much hp you want to make.

A systemax, decent 180-190cc intake runner head (AFRs, Canfields, Vic Jr), and a custom cam should get you awful close if not over 400rwhp.
 
347 combo

okay i know i have a 347 i took the block in and had everything installed at the machine shop, picked up the short block and put my stuff on it mysself thecam was degreed and the shop is very reputable. if you noticed my car was dyno'd on a mustang md dyno which is a loading dyno that is the most accurate dyno out there now. i have flat top pistons which are stock style and i'm not running mad compression either. i didn't think the combo through at the time, i was in my early twenties and i could have been more patient. i had a bunch of problems with things,some i figured out later.a not to far off dyno attempt is coming up this summer and all the problems should be fixed. this is a break down of what happened.

i found out my msd is not working properly, was causing the car to shut down, and also backfire out of my intake, (this was noted when i dyno'd it 3 yrs. ago), also my centerforce clutch went out shortly after the car was dyno'd (less than 6 months), and i recently found out my pinion bearing is failing and now my u-joints on my practically new aluminum drive shaft are going bad. add all that up and the fact my combo really isn't well thought out, and i put a cam that i just had given with the car in w/o researching it is a recipe for disaster. thanks for the input though. 300 rwhp might be achieveable but from what i hear it isn't that easy unless you spend mucho bucks ie the combo i might possibly put together that is 3G's. shoot away anyone who disagrees or has any input on my current configuration, it's posted earlier in thread. thanks!!!
 
replying to your ? about the ignition. i live in western ny and i don't drive the car int he winter and it's still crappy here so i won't know for sure until april when the weather gets better. i'm taking it to a local ford expert who dirt races mustangs, if he can't figure out the ignition problem no one can. i am however going to replace the harness going to the coil with a new plug, mine looks iffy so it could just be something stupid like that. i'll post it when i get it check'd out.
 
all my questions have been answered

well after years of testing and tuning and changing parts and fixing everything and anything i could think of i finally got my car fixed and the motor running cherry. i fixed the ignition, the rear end is new, most all of the sensors are new, the clutch was replaced and i just got he car back from the dyno place with a new tune. my dyno guy found out that the old tune was letting the car run extremely lean because it was based off of all my problems that i had before when i brought the car in. so when the car was put on the machine this time the numbers were good but the air/fuel ration was horrible and as high as 16 in one point of the graph. i was told 12.8 was ideal and my car was run about 5 times on the dyno to get that air/fuel ration where it should be. after almost 2hr. of testing and tuning he got the car where it should be with a constant ratio no higher than 13 at any point on the graph. i was excited, paid the guy and took the car home. to my disappointment the car ran horrible and would'nt stay running. so the next morning i dropped the car off and 4 days later got a call with the good news. a bad wire going into the ECU had black corrosion on it which was hidden in the wire. after 4 hr. of work and some more dyno runs the car is perfect now and idles perfect too. my initial numbers b4 the computer was fixed was 312 hp and 372 ft.lb. of torque to the wheels. not bad with what i had the only yielded 247/317 prior to that 5 years ago. the best thing is the 372ft.lb. of torque come in at 2700rpm right where you want it for the street and the hp gradually increases up to about 5100rpm. i am going today to get the updated graph to scan and copy it to post on here. he said it got a couple more since he fixed the ECU. needless to say this is the perfect street car with mad torque and very good driveability and i was about to change my whole setup when the problem was a tune and a bad wire. it cost me less than $500 to find the problem and tune the car, i am happy to say that is money well spent. i will post my dyno graph and video on here as soon as i can get it on the computer.
 
I am getting ready to do a build on one, looking at these #'s I don't know whether to be excited for 300rwhp or disgusted with it. I know several people in my area that are running carb 302 based strokers, do not know details on all parts, but running over 400rwhp. 1 put 480rwhp down and runs low 6's in the 1/8th on motor. I posted separately that I am looking at 351w based stroker combo's and looks like I need to open the top end up to get some #'s pulled down. This all looks like great troubleshooting and congrats on the 372rwtq.
 
New Dyno Graphs

hey it took a while but i got a scanner and i have the results from 5 years of testing and tuning and hopefully this will help some people out. huge difference from last time i did this and the last graph that is posted earlier in this thread. swing away guys.