Well i have the Black magic Extreme 185 for my car so does @Onefine88 . The Taurus i believe can pull as much as 70 amps on start up but don't quote me on that i know its a lot just don't remember the exact number .
Progress Thread My Kenne Bell Twin Screw'd Foxbody thread, (new addition to the family)
- Thread starter FoxMustangLvr
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
It's been a weekend of 1 step forward and 2 steps back!!
I ran some wires through the firewall on the passenger side for the PiMP vacuum line and my battery cuttoff switch wires to the ALT and this happened....broke the dang brake line trying to move it a little to get my hands in there.
Today I install my jumpers for my engine configuration for my Stinger PiMP microsquirt
Turns out the PiMP does not support dual fans (low fan, high fan) for the V8 since the high fan is shared with injector 8. So this only works for a 4 cyl. I should have read the instruction closer.
Now I'm left with a decision to make, run a single fan through PiMP? Or maybe use the flexilite fan controller that I already have that has soft start to run my dual fans?? I really don't want to look at that ugly fan controller in my engine bay. Maybe I can hide it?
@mikestang63 @84Ttop @TOOLOW91 @Boosted92LX
have any recommendations for a good single electric fan without breaking the bank? What is the amp draw of a taurus/contour fan? I already have all the wiring and relays for the dual fans ranI'd rather sell the FAL controller and get a single fan to be honest and run a single fan through the pimp and remove one of the relay.
Sorry if I'm going back and forth, I'm at a fork in the road and need to keep pushing forward. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks Stangnet family!
That's the controller I've used on several cars with both Taurus and MkVII fans with no complaints. These fans do tend to spike the amps on startup, which is why you run a soft touch controller.
My next project is a wire tuck and I will relocate my controller from the inside passenger fender area to either inside the fenderwell or on the lower .radidator support
- Mar 2, 2015
- 6,822
- 5,858
- 203
I use a jeep 2002 Cherokee v8 electric fan wired with relays and gm fan control temp switches for high and low speed. It fits really well in the factory 90 fan shroud...with a little modification.
I did some reading and according to below there were differences in CFM throughout some of the years. Can anyone confirm or deny this?
This is taken from another site.....
This info was give to me by Matt W.
part # is F3LY8C607A
93-96 use p/n F3LY 8C607 A @ 245.80
The 93-96 spin 1100 rpms on low and 1850 on highspeed.
97's use p/n F7LZ 8C607 AB @ 196.23
98's use p/n F8LZ 8C607 AA @ 140.11
Th8LZ 8C607 AA @ 140.11
The 97-98 spin 1800 on low and 2225 on high.
They all look the same, all come with a shroud. The 93-96 spin slower according to Ford Motorsport Tech line.
This is taken from another site.....
This info was give to me by Matt W.
part # is F3LY8C607A
93-96 use p/n F3LY 8C607 A @ 245.80
The 93-96 spin 1100 rpms on low and 1850 on highspeed.
97's use p/n F7LZ 8C607 AB @ 196.23
98's use p/n F8LZ 8C607 AA @ 140.11
Th8LZ 8C607 AA @ 140.11
The 97-98 spin 1800 on low and 2225 on high.
They all look the same, all come with a shroud. The 93-96 spin slower according to Ford Motorsport Tech line.
Anybody have any concerns with using copper/nickle brake line to splice in to repair my broken brake line?
Amazon product ASIN B00651OAVSView: http://www.amazon.com/AAS-Copper-Nickel-Brake-CN-316/dp/B00651OAVS/ref=pd_sim_263_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0GVEQ625E6SVMGPDP3ZS
Amazon product ASIN B00651OAVSView: http://www.amazon.com/AAS-Copper-Nickel-Brake-CN-316/dp/B00651OAVS/ref=pd_sim_263_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0GVEQ625E6SVMGPDP3ZS
I am pretty sure that there is no high low in the mrkVIII fan and that is old internet myth.
I don't remember what year fan I have in my car, sorry
I don't remember what year fan I have in my car, sorry
i have a taurus fan being powered by a hayden controller firing a 75amp bosch relay. it has low and high speeds, but i'm only using the high.
i have an older mkviii fan for mock up (took too much modding to make fit) and im pretty sure it has high/low speeds on the same motor, but i'm a little too lazy right this second to go dig it out and check.
if you need to fix brake line, your local parts store should have short pre-made sections of steel line, i just used one to fix a fuel line not too long ago. you'll need a double-flare tool which isnt too expensive. looking at where yours is, i'd just replace that existing union with the new section, less chance for leaks.
i have an older mkviii fan for mock up (took too much modding to make fit) and im pretty sure it has high/low speeds on the same motor, but i'm a little too lazy right this second to go dig it out and check.
if you need to fix brake line, your local parts store should have short pre-made sections of steel line, i just used one to fix a fuel line not too long ago. you'll need a double-flare tool which isnt too expensive. looking at where yours is, i'd just replace that existing union with the new section, less chance for leaks.
It's that time, the time to PiMP!
Finally completed my check list. Time to load the software and start setting it all up. Need to install my battery and check a few things out before I turn the engine over. Nervous and excited at the same time.
Finally completed my check list. Time to load the software and start setting it all up. Need to install my battery and check a few things out before I turn the engine over. Nervous and excited at the same time.
stangboy
Founding Member
After removing my brake booster and MC I need to bleed my brake system. I think it was @Boosted92LX that had the idea of a bottle with a hose in it for one man brake bleeding so I found this that matches his idea. Going to try this sometime this week.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wwq1Vlk4Wg
Also picking up a timing light and remote push button engine starter so I can dial in the timing while under the hood. I'll pull the spark plugs and disconnect the injector harness to get my timing as close as possible before actually starting the car.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wwq1Vlk4Wg
Also picking up a timing light and remote push button engine starter so I can dial in the timing while under the hood. I'll pull the spark plugs and disconnect the injector harness to get my timing as close as possible before actually starting the car.
I have a Bosch remote engine starter. I know one lead connects to the battery side of the solenoid but where does the other? I have a 3g alt and a high torque mini starter fyi.
Last edited:
jrichker has a diagram showing how to wire a mini starter. I forgot what gauge wire he said to use for the signal wire but if you google the diagram, it comes up.
- May 8, 2006
- 703
- 240
- 84
One lead off of your positive the other to the small post off of your solenoid (excite lead). From the looks of your external fender, and without being able to blow the picture up, it looks like you have a blue connector on it.
You are correct, the black wire with the blue terminal ring is the S. So one lead to the S and the other to the + side. Thanks! Tonight I'm going to install my battery in my trunk and start testing things out.
@jrichker
Any reason that I couldn't use 1/0 welding wire for my positive battery cable going from my Moroso 74102 cutoff switch in my trunk to my starter solenoid? I know it's black but I don't care about the color.
That should work OK.
Mini starter wiring....
Starter solenoid wiring 92-93 Mustang or earlier Mustang with upgraded high torque mini starter.
I may have already posted this before, but just in case...
For a battery cut off switch, see Moroso Performance Products: It's your passion for racing that drives us!
is the switch Moroso Performance Products: It's your passion for racing that drives us! is the installation instructions.
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you will
be good to go.
Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang wiring.
There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.
Wire the battery to the two 1/2" posts as shown in the diagram.
The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the 40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.
Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire. Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs. Do not add the jumper between the 1/2" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.
How it works:
The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies a turn on signal to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the Run position. Turn the Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.
The fuse & wiring in the following diagram are for a 3G alternator. The stock alternator uses a dark green fuse link wire that connects to 2 black/orange wires. Always leave them connected to the starter solenoid even if you have a 3G alternator.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring
Mustang FAQ - Wiring & Engine Info Everyone should bookmark this site.
Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif
Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg
Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.
One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot
on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the
rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean
shiny spot on the block.
One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to
the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt
and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal
around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.
The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect
(about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the
ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground
in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by
a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green
wires have a high quality ground..
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo
shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing
to cover the lugs and make things look nice.
@jrichker
Thank you Sir! Yes I wired up the Moroso 74102 per your recommendation and not the manufactures instructions.
To anyone reading this. Any advice on a pre-start checklist? I have NEVER fired up this engine nor this car. I will follow the Stingers instructions for the PiMP start up but outside of that once I install and hook up my battery I will,
Add fuel to tank, about 4 gallons.
Test the battery cutoff switch, turning it off should cut all power to vehicle without the engine running.
Check oil, coolant etc
Set TPS
Disconnect injector harness, pull spark plugs and set timing. Do I need to remove the Spout doing it this way?
Start engine?
Thank you Sir! Yes I wired up the Moroso 74102 per your recommendation and not the manufactures instructions.
To anyone reading this. Any advice on a pre-start checklist? I have NEVER fired up this engine nor this car. I will follow the Stingers instructions for the PiMP start up but outside of that once I install and hook up my battery I will,
Add fuel to tank, about 4 gallons.
Test the battery cutoff switch, turning it off should cut all power to vehicle without the engine running.
Check oil, coolant etc
Set TPS
Disconnect injector harness, pull spark plugs and set timing. Do I need to remove the Spout doing it this way?
Start engine?
Since I'm about to start this car up for the first time and just in case if what happened to @madspeed happens to me I want to be covered. I added my car to my Famers policy today so I could get immediate full coverage in case something goes bad. I also called and got a quote from Grundy which was a much more satisfying conversation about coverage for a way better price. It's a process and will take a few days which is why I have farmers for the time being. I need to take pictures and fill out the application and hope the underwriters can agree on a value of the car with consideration of my out of pocket investment in the car. I'm obviously not asking for the Moon but I am into this car for a lot more than what I can sell it for or part it out for.
So far Farmers is $210 every 6 months for full coverage & towing with $100k/$300k coverage and no limitations but only covers blue book value. Farmers also has antique/classic coverage but the cost goes up.
Grundy quoted me $150 per YEAR for the same $100k/$300k coverage of with no limitations, just normal use & a covered value of $8k (for now). I'd increase the covered value as body, paint and interior progresses.
So far Farmers is $210 every 6 months for full coverage & towing with $100k/$300k coverage and no limitations but only covers blue book value. Farmers also has antique/classic coverage but the cost goes up.
Grundy quoted me $150 per YEAR for the same $100k/$300k coverage of with no limitations, just normal use & a covered value of $8k (for now). I'd increase the covered value as body, paint and interior progresses.
@A5literMan
What the heck is going on with the 11R build? Is there an end in sight with the future X?
What the heck is going on with the 11R build? Is there an end in sight with the future X?
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
