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My '66 sat for almost a year to upgrade the suspension, wheels, and rear. I started the car maybe 5-6 times during that time frame. I also added Stabil to the fuel tank. Oil change was done. It drives like normal, but the oil smells heavy of gas. The car doesn't stall at idle. It starts right...

I have tons of race car pix, but couldn't find the routing of the adj PV inside the car by the driver seat. I'd like to know where the holes are located for the brake lines and is it along the trans tunnel or along the rocker. Pix are appreciated. TIA Posted via Mobile Device

What are the choices in rear brakes? I have a 9" rear, 31-spline axles, large bearing Torino ends. I looked on the SSBC site and found 10.5" rotor kits. Then, found a 11.125" rotor kit on Master Power. I have 15x8" 2-piece wheel with 4" back-space out back. Posted via Mobile Device

Anyone have pix of how the original or aftermarket parking cable attaches to the parking brake lever of the rear discs. TIA Posted via Mobile Device

i'm shopping for tires on Summit. what would be your choices for the street driven almost daily? i'm getting 15x7 w/4.00" b.s. front and 15x8 w/4.50" b.s. rear. i have rolled fender lips and doing the 1.75" UCA drop, adj strut rods, and camber kit... and not doing mini-tub in the back. - BFG...

some are telling me to mini-tub the rear to fit at least 15x10" wheels. what do you all think? are 15x8" fine for this 347 motor? what if... in the future, an alum 427 is put in place? i also have a chance to cut out some rust in the leaf spring to rear frame rail trunk area and in the driver...

some locals called for the 289 heads and the 14" wheels w/almost new BFG tires. how much you think they cost? links pix below. here's the other stuff i want to get rid of: - crankshaft (casting #C3AE-N) (needs remanufacturing/rebuilding) - stock distributor w/PERTRONIX + orig points -...

the original 8" rear end just gave out this morning. i guess it couldn't handle the 289 stroked 347. i've checked 9" rear prices from Currie, Moser/Cobra Automotive, and Strange. they all are priced at ~$2300 for the housing and 3rd member (w/axles?). i checked eBay and found Quick Performance...

Crankshaft - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia what can i look for to what of caused crankshaft failure? maybe from engine balance... while ago, the distributor gear teeth was chipped. it was replaced with a billet steel. the old gear was a softer alloy. can bad engine harmonics cause this? a...

i'd like to get the front suspension done before purchasing wheels. i heard eliminating the shims provides more room for wider tires. here is what i was thinking: TCP adjustable strut rods, vario-centric camber kit, TCP straight pivot UCA's, and doing a 1.75" UCA drop (opentracker has the...

can anyone tell be anything about VWW Vintage 40's and 45's and/or PSE (Phil Schmidt Engineering) wheels... compared to American Racing TTD's??! i like the Torq Thrust look and am ready to purchase.

speedometer + odometer are not working in the car... it just stopped while driving on the highway at 80-90mph. the speedometer cable snapped and the teeth of the plastic gear are damaged. Borg Warner T10 4-speed transmission. can i blame the shop for it breaking? they replaced the seal at the...

i finally get to start the car & hear it. my first upload on YouTube. guy in video is the shop co-owner.

got me thinking... what would be the lightest 15"X8" rim out of these choices?: 1. American Racing TTD 2. VWW Vintage 45's 3. PSE (Phil Schmidt Engineering) same styling i'm having a hard time deciding on wheel choice. or, i can just go with the Billet Specialties Street Lite (10.5lb).:D

i'm looking into JBA options instead of Doug's Tri-Y's for my built engine. i have 4-speed M/T and in the future will put in a 5-speed M/T. questions: 1. if i get the 4-speed JBA long tube headers now, will i have a fitment issue later with the 5-speed M/T? 2. are the JBA Tri-Y's good for...

i just saw this universal safety loop at Jegs... http://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/40734/10002/-1/744057|10061 i like to know what loops all of you bought and how it's installed. and, is 1 enough just in the front? post some pix.

need some feedback for the conversion from flat tappet to hydraulic roller for a orig 289 block stroked 347... will the Comp Cam retro-fit kit p/n 31-1000 for ~$50 get the job done? or is the Crane hydraulic roller lifters p/n 36532-16 for $500 the greater deal?

what are the best pans out there? Milodon or Canton? i'm thinking of getting this Milodon 8qt pan for my 289 stroked 347 - http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MIL%2D31926&N=700+0&autoview=sku from searchin' this forum... is there interference with the stock front...

hello all. i'm in the lingering process of stroking orig 289 block to 347ci w/AFR185 heads, 600cfm Holley 4V, manual 4-spd... just for the streets + highways. what long tube headers fit my application w/out hitting speed bumps + having spark plug access? 1 5/8" or 1 3/4" primaries? options: Jet...

i just got their new catalog in the mail... much better than their previous catalogs. lots of new stuff. and, i'm kind of bummed out that my TCP LCA's don't have the new pivot socket and grease-zerk fitting. anyone else get that feeling when buying performance parts?