'02 GT won't start after unbolting dashboard

[bmylez]

*ding ding ding* We have a winner. It was simply the fuse for the instrument cluster. I put a 5A in there, of course. Kinda scary that a 15A blew, but the car started right up. Haven't tried the driver seat controls because I haven't put the seat back in yet. Oh well, just glad that it starts. Still not going to drive it, though. It has a nasty exhaust leak at one of the manifolds, so I'll have to be doing a little surgery. I *think* it's the driver side manifold, but I need to get underneath to see if there is black soot anywhere, which there should be.

wmburns says I shouldn't have to drop the k member just to swap a stock mani, not a long tube. Not doubting him, just seeing if everyone else agrees.

 

[wmburns]

wmburns says I shouldn't have to drop the k member just to swap a stock mani, not a long tube. Not doubting him, just seeing if everyone else agrees.

We should point out here that the Ford service manual does state that the motor needs to be supported with a fender style support brace. The starter has to removed. And the motor mounts themselves have to be removed to gain access.

Congrats on pulling off a very difficult job.

OBTW, an exhaust leak will cause the motor to run rich.

 

[bmylez]

OBTW, an exhaust leak will cause the motor to run rich.

I know this is the internet, so you must assume everyone is a n00b, but I'm well aware of how vac leaks and exhaust leaks affect the workings of the motor . Not trying to be snotty at all, just lettin ya know . I turbo'd my SVT Focus with my own two hands, no instruction manuals, gathered all the parts myself (no eBay ones except for really cheap stuff that doesn't matter).

The exhaust leak is exactly the reason why I don't want to drive the car. Not only does it *sound* terrible, but it floods the cabin with fumes even while cruising on the freeway if you have the air turned on at all. And then lastly, the car will definitely not be running tip-top, which means worse fuel economy and, most importantly, less power, and we all know these cars need all the power they can get.

 

[wmburns]

I know this is the internet, so you must assume everyone is a n00b,

Three words, AC disconnect tool.

And you are correct, the range of experience of ppl posting can be very WIDE. In the end, it's about getting the job done and learning more.

 

[bmylez]

In my defense, the Haynes manual that I have *never* mentions the A/C disconnect tool in the heater core replacement section. It literally says "disconnect A/C lines."

 

[trombonedemon]

In my defense, the Haynes manual that I have *never* mentions the A/C disconnect tool in the heater core replacement section. It literally says "disconnect A/C lines."

The Haynes manual is just simply for guidance, the manual leaves out steps and then puts to many steps, go figure, you would save time just asking the gurus here.
None these manuals replace experience though.

 

[bmylez]

Yeah, I've noticed that many times. It was still fairly helpful with the heater core job, though. Right now I'm getting ready to drop the k-member to check out where my exhaust leak is. Haven't made much progress...but I have the wheels and stater off . A guy made a really nice write-up and put it on fnsweet.com (I'm sure many of you have heard of it). He says that all I need is the jack and some wood to support the motor while I fiddle with the k member and exhaust manifolds.