1/4 mile and hp numbers

91drag

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Feb 13, 2006
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Plans for 331 would like to see what everyone thinks on rwhp\rwtq. and 1/4 mile times poss.

66 289 block .040
tmd budget 331 stroker kit with.
.040 kb .200 dome pistons or would flat tops be better what compression be with either
comp 270h cam
60cc 190 aluminum heads 2.02 1.60 heads
hv oil pump
1.7 rollertip rockers comp cams
summit stage 3 intake, holley 650 hp dp carb.
c-4 2500 hughes converter
9" rear with 3.25 or 3.80 gears have both setup
car has 15x6 wheels front with 225-60-15. 15x8 with 275-50-15 rears. sfc, strange axles, 4 wheel disc, ac, ps,full insides.
 
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Would have to know what car its going in. But that combination sounds bad from the start. First of all you should never use a 289 block in a strocker because the cylinder skirts are .2 shorter than the 302 block. The strokers need this for piston support at the bottom. Second, you should never bore a 289-302 past .03 for a performance engine. Are you going to use it on the street or is drag racing the main event?

Plans for 331 would like to see what everyone thinks on rwhp\rwtq. and 1/4 mile times poss.

66 289 block .040
tmd budget 331 stroker kit with.
.040 kb .200 dome pistons or would flat tops be better what compression be with either
comp 270h cam
60cc 190 aluminum heads 2.02 1.60 heads
hv oil pump
1.7 rollertip rockers comp cams
summit stage 3 intake, holley 650 hp dp carb.
c-4 2500 hughes converter
9" rear with 3.25 or 3.80 gears have both setup
car has 15x6 wheels front with 225-60-15. 15x8 with 275-50-15 rears. sfc, strange axles, 4 wheel disc, ac, ps,full insides.
 
well it has been bored .040 for the since 1984 and i have never had any problems with it. and it has a 302 crank and rods and pistions in it know. from what i read on this site it is ok to use the 289 block cause it is the same as the 302 block. and that the .2 differance is just a ford myth.

so then what is the problem with this combo. it is the combo that people on here have recommended to me before. car is a 65 mustang
 
Well I could be wrong about the skirt length, I have both a 289 and a 302 in my shop and I will ck it out when I can. but what I have read back when stroking had to be done with custom parts and there were no kits available was that the skirt length was different. I believe where I first read this was from an artical by Jack Roush when he built a stroker for the 79 indy pace car that was used at the track that year. Any way, .040 can and will cause hot spots in the cylinders and eventualy cracks. Never go past .03 if performance driving is in the picture and only after you have had the block ck'd for core shift ultasonicly. You may be trying to save a buck here and thats fine. then put the parts on the 302 you have and save you money and do the motor right when you can.

As far as how much hp just take 1.15 x cu.in. and that will give you a basic hp for a mod engine like yours. I raced a 66 coup 4sd for years with a 289 stock pistons with stock heads no porting, it had headers .515 lift cam 238 @.05, dual plane intake, holley 650dp and daul point dist. The car ran 14.8 with 2.8 gear. I changed gear to 3.89 and ran 13.6, then changed to 4.57, ran 13.2, Changed shocks and flywheel to 30lb ran a best of 12.82. But the car was no fun to drive on the street after that so I built a new car for street/road course and am having a ball.
 
the block is in great shape just had it mag, diped, cleaned. bore checked. never have had any problem with going over .030 and have had 302's bored .060 with no problems. just have never built an stroker . the kit i mention is the kit alot of people here have told me to get. car is street/strip car. mostly street driven will take to track 4 to5 times a year. if i was builing a strip car it wound not be my mustang ive had it since 92 and my mother has had it since 68
 
Heres my .02. Use flat top postons as stroking will increase compression. I have 8cc dish pistons in my 347 and still have 10.1 to 1 comp. Use the 3.25 gear as it will act about the same as 3.70 in a stick car. If you have D.O.T. drag radials the car should run low 13's to high 12's Thats very respectable for a street driven car. If you use the dome pistons you will need octane of 96 or better
 
Any way, .040 can and will cause hot spots in the cylinders and eventualy cracks. Never go past .03 if performance driving is in the picture and only after you have had the block ck'd for core shift ultasonicly.
I ran a .060 289 block for years(12 to be exact) and it survived numerous nitrous bottles and finally melted a piston a piston with a blower, but I never had problems with it:shrug:
 
stroker

Can't comment on going .040 over but I used the TMD 347 kit in a .030 289 with no problems yet. I haven't driven it much yet but I did plenty of research beforehand to see if it is o.k. to stroke a 289. The cylinder bore length is nominally 5" in both the 289 and 302.
 
The early 289 block should be fine for a 331 stroker kit.
What brand heads are those? Canfield?

Your combo sounds pretty good to me. It should run very well. A custom cam would produce the most power. There are newer ones that have faster ramp rates and more lift. That cam is an old grind but should still make good power.
Remember that the rpm specs of that cam are based on a 302 engine. They will shrink some on a 331.

I am not familiar with the Summit Stage 3 intake. If it is anything like the Vic Jr. I say go for it. I definitely recommend a good single plane intake.

I would run the 3.80 gears in it as well. I wish mine had 3.80's. I can still run 11's with the 3.55's but every little bit helps.

If you can't run at least 12's with a mild/well built stroker in a '65 Mustang, then something is wrong.
 
the summit intake is suppose to be like the ford a231 i belive is the number for the ford, not sure what brand heads they are. i got from a friend that went to a big block ford instead.
 
i have a hughs 3000rpm converter behind a 302 with afr 165's, voodoo 272 grind stealth intake, tci c4 manual/auto valve body and 625 demon. actual stall speed is @2400rpm. and it will spin tires(not smoke em) in second gear doing a stall test
 
i have a hughs 3000rpm converter behind a 302 with afr 165's, voodoo 272 grind stealth intake, tci c4 manual/auto valve body and 625 demon. actual stall speed is @2400rpm. and it will spin tires(not smoke em) in second gear doing a stall test

Be careful with that. It's a good way to burn up your forward clutches. don't ask how I know..:nonono:
Where you benn ?! haven't seen you much.
 
thanks guys what cam do you guys thing would be best. ive got the 270h but i just got started restoring another mustank for a guy and he said he would buy it. ive looked at the extreme entergy cams but have no idea which one would be best my heads can handle up to .550 lift . so i'm open for suggestions
 
thanks guys what cam do you guys thing would be best. ive got the 270h but i just got started restoring another mustank for a guy and he said he would buy it. ive looked at the extreme entergy cams but have no idea which one would be best my heads can handle up to .550 lift . so i'm open for suggestions

I am using the stock AFR springs on my heads which are good to .550 as well and I am using a Comp XE274H in mine. It measures 230/236 @ 0.050" and lift is .519" and .523". It works great in my engine and sounds really mean with h-pipe and flowmasters. If not a bit too loud. I hope to hit mid 11's this year. You can't go wrong with Comp's XE line or Lunati's Voodoo line of cams in this general size. I had the Comp XE268H in an old 302 and it worked great as well.

This is a flat tappet cam but if I had it to do over again (and I probably will) I will most likely get a custom roller cam to extract the most HP from my combo. I am using a late model roller block.

You can get more rpm out of a solid flat tappet cam in your early block if you dont mind a little valvetrain adjustment every now and then. Remember that the extra cubes of the stroker will tame the cam a little compared to it being in a 289 or 302.