Yup, you can remove them, and it wont throw a CEL. Removeing the SMOG wont cause any issues.
You need to run the codes from the ECM.
The CEL won't set, but the computer will post 81 & 82 when you dump the codes.
Here's the fix for that...
TAB & TAD solenoid valve eliminators – eliminate codes 81 & 82.
You will still get 44 & 94 codes because the computer looks for a change in the amount of oxygen by checking the O2 sensors when the solenoids are actuated. Actuating the solenoids provides more oxygen in the exhaust, changing the O2 sensor output. No change and you get the 44 & 94 codes.
Don’t do this if you have a catalytic converter H pipe. The catalytic converters must have the air from the smog pump or they will eventually clog up and choke.
See
US - Electronic Components Distributor | Newark.com for the resistors to replace the TAB & TAD solenoids
OHMITE|43F82RE|Wirewound Resistor | Newark.com
If the link fails do a search using the part number
82 ohm, 3 watt wirewound resistor, 94 cents each.
Newark P/N 64K8974
Ohmite part # 43F82RE.
Or use the following part number if the first part number isn't available:
OHMITE|23J82RE|Wirewound Resistor - Vitreous | Newark.com
Newark P/N 64K8241
Ohmite part #23J82RE
Pay a visit to your local Radio Shack to get some heat shrink and some crimp on tap terminals. They do not stock the resistors. Or you can use the Ford connector pin kit from AutoZone.
18 gauge crimp on taps Catalog #: 64-3053
Put the resistor inside the heat shrink tubing and crimp the connectors on. I would choose the Ford pin connectors since they should plug in the TAB & TAD wiring. That way you haven't modified the wiring so it is easy to re-install the TAB & TAD solenoids if emissions testing comes to your area.
Two flat pin connectors.
One 82 ohm, 3 watt resistor.
One piece 3/8" heat sink tubing 2" long.
Two pieces 3/16" heat shrink tubing 1 1/2" long.
Solder the pins onto the resistor leads using electrical solder.
Slide the 3/8" heat shrink tubing over the resistor.
Slide the two pieces of 3/16" heat shrink tubing over the two wires, leaving the flat part of the pins uncovered.
It helps to have the resistor leads straight and not bent as shown in the first picture when you apply heat to the heat shrink tubing. That way, the tubing shrinks more evenly.
Finally, apply heat to shrink all the tubing uniformly.
Bend the leads to fit the spacing on the female TAB & TAD connector sockets.
Push the connector pins of the completed resistor assembly into the empty female TAD or TAD connector sockets on the wiring harness. The resistor assemblies replace the missing solenoids: one resistor assembly per solenoid socket.
Do not crimp on the pins and wrap the mess with electrical tape and say you got the idea from me. If you do, and I hear of it, I will say unkind things about your intelligence and family heritage. Do Quality Work!
This information is for informational purposes only and is intended for use only on off road vehicles. It should not be used on any vehicle operated on public roads.
Operating a vehicle modified in such a manner on public roads is a violation of the EPA codes regarding modification of emission controlled vehicles.
Idle/surge problems:
See the "
Surging Idle Checklist for help with all your idle/stall problems. Everything you need to find and fix idle problems is in there.
The
first two posts contain all the updates to the fixes. At last count there were
24 possible causes and fixes for surging idle/stall problems. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions.
