160 Thermostat Vs 180?

[ratio411]

I'm relatively certain the 3.8 Taurus fan has a 4400 CFM rating. That is some serious air movement for a single fan. It's the main reason why I bought one for my setup. Just to add a little more fuel to the mechanical vs. electrical fan debate: List 5 new cars that come with mechanical cooling fans

Have you ever bench tested an electric fan, like the Taurus or Mark8?

Lay them flat, start them up, and they will SUCK themselves to the table!
You won't be able to lift it, it will slow and distort the shroud as it pulls itself closer and closer to the bench top.

They are CRAZY strong!

 

[Gearbanger 101]

On the same topic, so hopefully this isn't seen as a hijacking....

What happens to a 5.0 EFI when you run a 160?
I am from the old school, where the 160 was manditory.
I have a 160 in all 3 of our EFI 5.0s, and now I notice people saying that 160 is bad for an EFI.

Out of the 3 5.0s we have, the 2 HO versions have regular tuning issues, I am wondering if the stat could be a problem.
The non-HO 5.0, in my F150, doesn't seem to mind it, but it is a heavy workhorse, and would run hotter with the little engine anyway.
(Plus the truck is the only one that is SD instead of MAF)

Thanks!

In all cases, the vehicle doesn’t reach full operating temperature as quickly and in many cases at all. It causes the system to remain in open loop mode for longer periods in order to attempt to reduce emmisons. This makes for increased fuel consumption, produces dirtier emissions (due to the duration of the cold start up period), reduces the lifespan of your engine oil because of the increase of hydrocarbon’s, moisture and other pollutants and also shortens the lifespan of your O2 sensors, etc. And because the temperature changes are so drastic with a stock, or near stock engine, it makes for inconsonant cooling.

You’ve got to have a serious piece of equipment to justify that kind of thermostat. They were really popular in the pre-EFI days, when the use of aluminum heads was rare, engines didn’t have any sort of electronic management system and carbs weren’t so able to adapt to changes in temperature and atmosphere. But for today’s EFI cars to properly function, they must meet and maintain consistent operational temperatures.

 

[Noobz347]

On the same topic, so hopefully this isn't seen as a hijacking....

What happens to a 5.0 EFI when you run a 160?
I am from the old school, where the 160 was manditory.
I have a 160 in all 3 of our EFI 5.0s, and now I notice people saying that 160 is bad for an EFI.

Out of the 3 5.0s we have, the 2 HO versions have regular tuning issues, I am wondering if the stat could be a problem.
The non-HO 5.0, in my F150, doesn't seem to mind it, but it is a heavy workhorse, and would run hotter with the little engine anyway.
(Plus the truck is the only one that is SD instead of MAF)

Thanks!

The computer stays in open loop and if the cooling system works well enough, then oil doesn't get hot enough to burn off contaminates and all the moisture it's supposed to dissipate. The result over time ends up being sludge.

 

[ratio411]

...for today’s EFI cars to properly function, they must meet and maintain consistent operational temperatures.

What temp does the ECM look for to reach the proper 'loop'?
The Fox 5.0 tends to run on the rich side, then gradually leans as the RPM goes up.
The fuel air ratio goes lean in direct correlation to the RPM of the engine.
The dyno guy said that is not normal, but offered no ideas on what is going on except to let him tune it for 450 + another 450 for the chip setup. I figure this is a problem that doesn't require custom tuning myself. He was just making a sales pitch.


Edit: I guess I should also ask what sensor does the ECM depend on for this preset operating temp threshhold? Does it just use the coolant sensor, or does the air charge sensor also come into play?

Edit2: When I said "Fox 5.0", I meant that specific car, not the SN95 or F150.
We have three 5.0s with the 160 stat like I mentioned.

 

[jrichker]

I'm relatively certain the 3.8 Taurus fan has a 4400 CFM rating. That is some serious air movement for a single fan. It's the main reason why I bought one for my setup. Just to add a little more fuel to the mechanical vs. electrical fan debate: List 5 new cars that come with mechanical cooling fans

It's kind of hard to mount a mechanically driven fan facing forward on a trasverse mounted engine...

I personally like the electric fan idea. I have one sitting in my garage... some day I'll get energetic and finish the electronic fan controller I started to build in 2006....

 

[Gearbanger 101]

What temp does the ECM look for to reach the proper 'loop'?
The Fox 5.0 tends to run on the rich side, then gradually leans as the RPM goes up.
The fuel air ratio goes lean in direct correlation to the RPM of the engine.
The dyno guy said that is not normal, but offered no ideas on what is going on except to let him tune it for 450 + another 450 for the chip setup. I figure this is a problem that doesn't require custom tuning myself. He was just making a sales pitch.

This article states that closed loop can occur as early as 170F, but generally ranges between there and 190F. At 190F, the AL9 computer will start pulling timing. So from a pure performance standpoint, a 180-degree thermostat may be best suited. But you engine will still run cleaner and more effiecenly with the stock 195-degree unit in place.

Give it a read if you'e got an hour or two to kill.

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/EECIVInnerWorkings/

 

[RacEoHolic330]

some day I'll get energetic and finish the electronic fan controller I started to build in 2006....

You should. I think you'd give DCControl a run for his money!