3,..2,...1,.....Ignition.
Well, to tell the truth I really don't know if I have it as of yet, but when you turn the key, stuff happens:
Clearly, Despite the spaced off, new steering wheel, I'm still gonna have to gawk around to see the outside two gauges. At this point, I'll take it as the lesser of two evils,...I'm happy w/ the notion that the engine cranks.
Underneath that gauge pod is almost a whole day of weatherpack building so I could detach that gauge cluster from the dash. All toll, there are 21 connectors under there in combinations of 2's, 3's, and 4's. I was doing great at keeping everything neat and orderly, till that requirement fouled everything up.
What it looks like "under" the gauge pod is a lot more chaotic.
Realistically, (I did say realistically) I'm really close to being able to start it. Unlike my previous "forecasts", the point I'm at now is easily 50 hours past the point where I thought I was only a few days away two weeks ago.
I still have the chassis wiring (i.e. taillights, turnsignals, headlights, that kinda junk).
And I still have all of the support mechanicals to wire (Fuel pump, cooling fans, rear heat exchangers, rear water pump).
I have to build the battery tray, and figure a way to hold it down that looks better than two J hooks holding a strap across the top of the battery. (I don't know why I'm worried about that,....I'll end up upholstering the entire rear trunk like I did the red car, and all of that stuff will be hidden anyway).
All of the above stuff aside it's the little nitpicky stuff like that continues to contaminate my progress. Leave it to me to decide to use led switches to basically switch something to ground.
I learned that w/ a led switch, you cant do that.
There should be two switches in this pic other than a bunch of disconnect. The two switches would ground the OD circuit in the trans, and the other would lock up the converter. I figured that I'd make the ground the "supply", The solenoids that needing grounding the "load", and the 12v that would light the led plugged into the lug that said "earth".
Nope. Stinkin leds are polarity sensitive. They only work one way.
Had this been a regular lighted switch, the circuit would've worked the way I described, either switching 12v to the load, or providing a gnd to the load with the light illuminating either way. problem is those switches suck, and that little bulb burns out in a minute (figuratively speaking).
So, I'll have to get creative.
Here are two more of the stupid things, only I'm not trying to do anything out of the ordinary here other than turn on the rear pump, and cooling fans.
Not without their own problems when you turn them on,....the lights are so stinkin' bright, the interior glows blue. (
Blue for cool,..i.e. cooling fans, water pump). The last time there was this much blue light flooding my interior, I was getting a ticket.
You shoulda noticed that the shifter is installed. The installation of which should be another mind-numbingly simple task, except.......
My shifter sits in a little recessed trough. That through is so close to the transmission, I couldn't get a nut on a bolt to hold that shifter in to save my ass. I knew that when I built it, so I added two diagonally opposed 1/4-20 studs so as to be able to just drop that shifter onto them and zip a couple of nuts on and be done. It worked perfectly when I mocked the thing up.
It wouldn't fit worth a damn when there was a cable that stuck through the front of the trough. Again, I tested that sorry assed cable fitment when the car was in build stage, and it went together w/ no problems. Put a transmission about an inch underneath it though,.......and things get a little difficult.
I did listen to and removed the ground cables, and "insulated" them.
See, I'm not so hard headed after all.
And lastly, this brings me back to the front of the car.
From what I'm reading in the megamanual,...EDIS will run at 10 degrees in "limp home" mode. To verify that the sensor is properly placed, you unplug the PIP plug, and the thing goes into that mode. You can then put a timing light on the engine to verify that there is only 10 degrees. If not, you have to move the sensor, basically further, or closer to the tooth edge to get that right.
This little tidbit is important, because the MSII adds timing to the base 10 degrees after that. I don't know how many degrees difference there is between the front edged of the tooth, and the back edge of the tooth, but I'm pretty much in the center. I'd just as soon not have to dick with it.
See that dude down there. I don't have to tell you that once you get the radiator in there w/ the cat sucking cooling fans attached, you don't have a prayer of getting your hand up there to do jack.
That's why, I'm thinkin' of "first starting" the engine ..............dry.