345ci Nitrous'd Notchback Progress Thread
- Thread starter 90lxcoupe
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Cobra912
Active Member
New cam!!!
Specs? Is this a Buddy Rawls unit?
Nice pics, too, heh.
Thanks, got a new camera so i actually have quality pictures now.
Buddy spec'd out the cam, bullet ground it and im not real sure on the specs, but its gonna go from me shifting at 6300ish to around 7500. Should move peak power up 1000 rpms.
Already did
I like the slicks alot better, that was a 1.52 60' in the pic below, 3rd pass off the trailer was a 1.49(this pass was off the limitier and im pretty sure it got both tires off the ground) but i had a valvtrian issue and it went 11.21 at 119mph. I will still run radials on weds T&T when i drive the car to the track, but thats about it for the radials. they are alot harder to get to work with a stick than the slicks.
Still hydraulic roller, right? Billet core I assume? What material gear do you/will you run on the distributor?
Im pretty positive its a billet core, and i dont know what im going to do about the gear, ill ask my motor guy when we do the cam monday, still hydraulic yes.
Here are some anti-progress pics... Motor is getting a new cam and valvesprings this coming monday, i may snap a few shots of that while im at the machine shop too.
Couple shots playin with the depth of field
What the hell is that crevice in your driveway? Are you living on a fault line?
HotFox
15 Year Member
What rear gear you running? That is hell of lot of RPM for hydraulic
, good luck
! Hope you got 3/8" push rods.
I bet we will see 10's this summer?
That is my goal! My current best is 11.56@122 with a 1.7x 60'. Team Z said I should see 1.4XX 60' with the new suspension.
Scott
, good luck! Hope you got 3/8" push rods.I bet we will see 10's this summer
?That is my goal! My current best is 11.56@122 with a 1.7x 60'. Team Z said I should see 1.4XX 60' with the new suspension
.Scott
What the hell is that crevice in your driveway? Are you living on a fault line?
Thats actually japans fault line and my car is godzilla
What rear gear you running? That is hell of lot of RPM for hydraulic
I bet we will see 10's this summer
That is my goal! My current best is 11.56@122 with a 1.7x 60'. Team Z said I should see 1.4XX 60' with the new suspension
Scott
Hopefully i can reuse the pushrods i have, PK machine is pretty confident that i will be able to re-use the pushrod length i have.
Tens i hope, if all this dosent do it, i quit... 4.30 gears in the rear. Rawls has been over 8800 with hyd stuff so i think i'll be alright. AFM has a few high RPM hydraulics as well. If i had to go back, i just would have went solid from the beginning, but that is too much work/money at this point and this motor will not be this way for more than 2 seasons...
I think you got 10's in it, the MPH is there, are you using radials or slicks?
HotFox
15 Year Member
Impressive RPM on HR.
Thats on MT Drag Radials. Going to go to Hoosier 275/75-15 from 275/50-15.
Scott
Thats on MT Drag Radials. Going to go to Hoosier 275/75-15 from 275/50-15.
Scott
Its gonna be tough to get the stick car to work on the radials, need a very good prep and slip the **** out of the clutch. You should give slicks a try
Here's an idle/rev clip of the car, with bassani exhaust. sounds very similar to the ultraflows i had
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VmVAavktn4M
Here's an idle/rev clip of the car, with bassani exhaust. sounds very similar to the ultraflows i had
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VmVAavktn4M
Cobra912
Active Member
I'm running hoosier QTP 27x10.5's and thinking of going to the mickey thompson DRs. I usually 1.51-2 60ft but would like a little more top end stability. Contemplating a 28" tire to drop my RPM's at the line.
My slicks are 28x10.5's Stiff walls with tubes. I dont mind them on the big end. Not as stable as the radials but nowhere near as bad as i thought. Once the car is settled in 4th it barely moves around. Much better than the 26x10.5 et streets. Those felt like a death trap...
I think the stiff wall combined with the tubes makes it more stable. But the 275/60 radails will prob work too with the C4. I think your car would like it. What width rim? I wouldnt run anything but a 10" rim wth them
Just to be sure, I'm only messing w/ you.
I think your car looks great. I like everything you've done, including the paint color.
I think your car looks great. I like everything you've done, including the paint color.
Just to be sure, I'm only messing w/ you.
I think your car looks great. I like everything you've done, including the paint color.
Thanks, i appreciate it, and i didnt take anything you said in a negative way. FWIW that crack in the base of my garage is huge and i need the whole thing redone cause the car scrapes when i pull it in anyways...
Cobra912
Active Member
I had two sets of rear rims, like a dummy I kep the 8" and sold the 10's. I had 275/60's mounted on the 8" didn't seem too bad, not much bulge. I'm also not running tubes or screws and if I watch some video of my 10.60 runs with 12 psi in the tires they look like they spin on the rim. Either way I have to go 28" or a gear change from the 3.73's, way too many rpms through the traps.
Sorry for the derail.....
no apology neccessary, this is good info to share.
I would bet you were spinning the tire on the rim, i was reading somwhere that anything running faster than 12.0's should have screws, and there were different arguments for tubes. I have some huge still images that i zoomed in on of a friend launching with 26x10s on a 10 hole(hci car with juice) and it was amazing how much the slick was folding over when you looked really close, it looked like the bead was separated from the face of the rim.
As far as the radails go, you would be supprised how much of a difference they make on a 10" rim, it was much better on the street, and they feel more stabil with LESS air than on a 8" rim. Sometimes I wouldnt even put more air in the tires after the track, i drove them on the highway at 17psi and no float at all. I ran them at 22 on the 8" rim
Cobra912
Active Member
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