345ci Nitrous'd Notchback Progress Thread

Still hydraulic roller, right? Billet core I assume? What material gear do you/will you run on the distributor?

On the distributor, i found some interesting info that i didnt know. I was told the stock cam is a billet core, so i do not need to change the gear on my MSD distributor, it is designed for a stock cam.

Another fun fact is my Comp cam was not a billet core and the stock MSD distributor gear was slowly eating thru the gear on the cam.
 
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On the distributor, i found some interesting info that i didnt know. I was told the stock cam is a billet core, so i do not need to change the gear on my MSD distributor, it is designed for a stock cam.

Another fun fact is my Comp cam was not a billet core and the stock MSD distributor gear was slowly eating thru the gear on the cam.

Interesting... I knew the stock cam was billet, but for whatever reason, I was lead to believe that you had to run a bronze distributor gear if you used an aftermarket billet cam.

Do you have a high volume oil pump?
 
Bronze is a bad idea(to me) because its going to wear out in time, and since the stocker is billet, theres really no reason to change it. FWIW the polymer comp ones will just explode when they break. The Machine shop told me they had one on a BBC that came apart within minutes and made a big mess.

I am running a HV pump
 
Little bit of progress, had to do a garage door so im not going to have the coin to tune the car as soon as i would like to, but the motor is back in, cam is degreed, i primed the oil system and made sure i was getting oil out of all 22 pushrods, everything looks good.

Here is a pic of the tool steel retainers i had mentioned before. You can see how much material is taken out of them and they are suprisingly light and wont wear like titanium.



Only real major change was i switched to a crown vic WP so that i get the belt to wrap the puller more and use the tensioner for its intended purpose
 
You used a Crown Vic water pump or pump pulley? Also, what length is that belt? Im going to a manual rack soon and will have the same accessory setup.

Ill get the number off of the belt, i am pretty sure its 47.5 inches though.

i believe i bought an 84 crown vic pump, i read somewhere that the backing plate needed to be swapped from the old pump, but i didnt do that, everything looked good when i installed it. Another thing with this pump is that you have to redrill the holes to a smaller bolt circle on the water pump pulley. I just redrilled my stocker, and there are plenty of guys running them like this with no grooves in the pulley
 
The reason I ask about the HV pump, is I'm curious if that at least contributed to the wear on your cam gear. HV pumps are supposed to take more effort to spin.

'Nother question I have for ya: Do you remember if you put sealant on the rocker stud threads when you put them in the heads? As you are probably aware, the hole for the intake stud on those heads goes all the way into the intake port. I was told the other day that if you don't put sealant on the stud threads, you can slowly suck oil past the pushrod guide plates, through the threads and down through that hole into the intake port and burn it. The Trick Flow instructions that come with the heads don't say anything about putting sealant on the stud, it actually just says to oil the threads and torque it down.
 
gonna be out and running some et's this year?

oh yes, dunno when, had to replace my garage door so that took some money out of the mustang fund. Im gonna try and get it running today, then i have to drill the holes in the rear tq boxes and replace the hardware with 1/2" bolts because i found out the team Z stuff requires a larger bolt.

The pump is standard rotation. Stock is reverse.

Looking good.

What he said. and thanks mang, when its running ill have to make a trip to the pike

The reason I ask about the HV pump, is I'm curious if that at least contributed to the wear on your cam gear. HV pumps are supposed to take more effort to spin.

'Nother question I have for ya: Do you remember if you put sealant on the rocker stud threads when you put them in the heads? As you are probably aware, the hole for the intake stud on those heads goes all the way into the intake port. I was told the other day that if you don't put sealant on the stud threads, you can slowly suck oil past the pushrod guide plates, through the threads and down through that hole into the intake port and burn it. The Trick Flow instructions that come with the heads don't say anything about putting sealant on the stud, it actually just says to oil the threads and torque it down.

I dont think that the pump made the cam gear worse, i had alot of miles on that motor, and at least 30 passes.

The shop that assembled the motor the first time put some kind of sealant on them, i dont know what it is. I do not think it is just regular thread dope though. did you ask TEA about it? You could also PM woody from ford strokers on corral. His username is strokeme, and he uses the CNC 205's all the time
 
What did you buy from team Z? Just the lowers? or the relocated lowers as well?

From putting my car together over the weekend I realized right shock is dischared I guess I will be getting new shocks.

Ed Curtis advises drilling a .060 hole in the galley plug to piss oil on the gear if running HV pump.

Billet cam from factory? I doubt it!

Scott
 
You could also PM woody from ford strokers on corral. His username is strokeme, and he uses the CNC 205's all the time

That's actually who let me know about the sealant. He pointed it out to me in a thread about TW 205s.

Billet cam from factory? I doubt it!

Scott

Actually, oddly enough, it is. If you hold a stock HO cam next to a "cast" or "SADI" aftermarket cam, there is a distinct difference.
 
What did you buy from team Z? Just the lowers? or the relocated lowers as well?

From putting my car together over the weekend I realized right shock is dischared I guess I will be getting new shocks.

Ed Curtis advises drilling a .060 hole in the galley plug to piss oil on the gear if running HV pump.

Billet cam from factory? I doubt it!

Scott

I bought his double adjsutable lowers, i wish i bought the reloacted uppers too, but when i was ordering the uppers(i bought the uppers last summer) he could not give me an answer one way or the other that they would help. Then six month later when i was ordering the lowers he said the relocated ones would be good for my setup... oh well.

I do believe the factory cam is billet. It was a pretty reliable source that told me also. Heres another link too.

Stock 5.0 roller camshaft sadi or billet? - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum
 
motor is all back together, chased down the water pump leaking for a few days, buttoned up some little wiring stuff, and tried to start it tonight, no dice.

I think it was the optima battery not giving me enough spark, or the timing was too advanced. After a couple minutes of cranking, the battery gave up. Apparantly the optima's dont like being charger for close to 24 hours on 10 amps. Got a new battery but it was too late to try making a ton of noise again.

Ok, now i go get more beer
 
I had the wrong gasket on the pump, got the motor running today, tried to get a idle/ rev clip but my camera stopped recording after 20 seconds for some reason. Now that i know the motor is running, i think i am going to install the megasquirt.

I also am going to pull the rear suspension apart and drill the torque box holes and rear to fit the 1/2" bolts that the team Z suspension requires. Im also gonna cut a coil out of the rear GT springs and see what that gets me for ride height
 
New stance, had the drag wheels powdercoated.

New setup is 12" 150# springs up front, 25 1/8'' to the top of the wheel well up front, and stock GT rears with 1 coil removed, 28 1/8'' from the ground to the top of the wheelwell