Progress Thread 64.5 Coupe - Xsboost90's Build Thread

Discussion in '1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-' started by xsboost90, Aug 14, 2013.


  1. xsboost90

    xsboost90 Member

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    ok- so i got sidetracked with an old BMW project but now that it is done and almost gone, im back on the mustang, currently buying more parts. Next week im going to pick up my *gasp* LQ9 chevrolet motor - basically a 6 liter LS motor like the LS2 with an iron block- easily can reach over 400hp with minimal work- and im getting this one for $1000, entirely running complete with 7k on it! Should save me some room, some weight and lots of cash. Once the beemer is gone its time to order my COLT65 Anthony Jones Racing front suspension which has an optional adapter to bolt the LS motor right in! Time to look for a T56 trans- already sold my cobra T5z to my cousin for his 67 stang. I did end up trading my sn95 rear end for a five lug adapted fox body 8.8 with track loc and 3.55 gears, much dirtier than mine but once im done it will be sweet. Eventually it'll get a better posi unit but for now should work.
     
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  2. xsboost90

    xsboost90 Member

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    just bought this kit- http://www.ajeracing.com/64-70Mustang.php - from summit racing- about $100 cheaper than from Jegs somehow. Should be awsome in the 64, comes with struts, coilovers, upper adjustable camber plates, lower control arms, k-member - and i can use my parts that i purchased for the Fatman kit initially the SN95 spindles, rotors, calipers - just have to get a fox body rack. Compared to the fatman kit, the rack bolts on the front of the k-member (better i think), the k-member bolts solid to the frame instead of in rubber to the exhisting control arm mounts (better), and it costs $500 less AND comes with the struts! Guess we'll see how happy i am after its in but pretty excited right now.

    I did find out that the motor im buying is an LQ4- not a 9- which means slightly less initial power but im still getting a killer deal and with mods this will be a badass motor for much less than most anything else i can buy or build new.
     
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  3. xsboost90

    xsboost90 Member

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    ok so i got my new motor yesterday, talked them down to $800 for a full motor, complete minus the harness and computer with 7k miles on it! Looked up the numbers after it was here and turns out, its an LY6 motor- better heads, more compression- 352 hp factory! Headers and a tune away from 400hp at the crank. Should hold me over until i buy more fun stuff. Meanwhile, new Anthony Jones Engineering Colt 65 front suspension will be here tomorrow - K member, lower a-arms, coilover struts and upper adjustable camber plates along with LSX motor mounts. Could be a fun next couple weeks.
     

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  4. xsboost90

    xsboost90 Member

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    so today i had some garage time, so i fit and mounted my AJE front subframe. This went way easier than i had expected, just drill four holes, then drop the bushings into the frame and weld them grind and bolt everything up! I mounted one a-arm on and dropped the ds strut in with the spindle and brakes that have been sitting in the attic for a year and everything looks great! I figured i would drop the motor in to see how things line up and besides a couple issues it looks pretty good. I'll definitely need a car intake, a slight trim on the front of the oil pan to clear the cross member and the strut towers will need to be trimmed back some. Cant wait to drive this sucker! IMG_1181.JPG IMG_1184.jpg IMG_1185.JPG IMG_1193.jpg
     
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  5. xsboost90

    xsboost90 Member

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    been awhile- i started posting on LS1tech.com since they have more advise for me setting up the chev motor. Figured i would update this one since alot has changed. Since this post ive picked up....
    -LS3 intake - fuel rail - TanksInc.com retro fuel pump- corvette filter/regulator- LY6 harness and ecu - Corvette drive by wire gas pedal- fox body mustang steering rack rebuilt- T56 six speed transmission from an Aston Martin- LS1 bellhousing- 13" rotors and cobra front calipers- stainless gas tank- 95 mustang booster/mc

    Ive also been doing alot of welding and fabricating to make things fit. I had to cut the tunnel out around the new trans to get the right pinion angle. After cutting it out, i made a new trans mount using my factory mustang trans mount, extended on each side and mounted between the frame rails. Then i welded the floor up with mm to spare which is now all finish welded, smoothed and POR15'd waiting for seam sealer. I decided to ditch the factory strut braces and make my own so i started with a 1/4" plate mounted to the firewall pinch weld, then bolted two plates to the inside of each strut tower. Then i made tubes from the strut to the firewall and notched them and slide those on and welded them up. Then bent up a strut tower bar that clears my intake and welded that in. The whole piece bolts on in just a couple minutes and fits very nicely- inspired by modern mustang bars.

    I decided to use a late model mustang booster and master cylinder to compliment my late model front and rear brakes. The booster really wasnt hard to install as the top two bolts are in the same spot as the factory, and i just had to drill two new lower holes below the factory ones and open up the big hole in the middle alittle. Surprisingly the linkage for the pedal dropped right onto the factory pedal but the pedal was too low. I removed the pedal, popped the pin out and moved it back about an inch to the back side of the pedal, drilled the hole and welded the pin back in. This makes the pedal sits stock and i didnt have to mod the linkage! Then i mounted my Corvette DBW pedal, had to make a heavy bracket for the firewall and a triangulated support and bend the pedal towards the left some but i think it turned out well. Also welded up a bunch of holes in the firewall while i was in there....

    On the front of the Chev motor i decided to drop the alternator down to the bottom, but the only mounts i could find either looked terrible, were expensive or required using the factory ps pump on the drivers side. I designed my own mount and had it water jetted out of 1/4" plate then made some spacers to bolt it to the block and used some idler pulleys from online. This works great-just need to get a belt- but now i wanted to mount a mustang power steering pump on the passenger side down low to work with my mustang rack without pressure issues. I found a remote resevoir 05-07 mustang pump and my buddy designed a bracket in solidworks using a gm tensioner to keep the belt tight and it runs off the back of the crank pulley on the ribs the a/c pump used to be on. Looks great and i should be picking up the finished product from the machine shop this week. Then i will mount my newer Gt500 ps resevoir on the motor or strut tower and drop a hose down to the pump. :)

    The rear of the car is still waiting to be figured out. I have a fox body rear end, and with the set of 17" Mach One wheels i picked up fits perfectly but i would like to go wider than 8" in the rear. I found some 10.5x17's i really like but the offset is not enough so i may end up shortening the rear end. After much reading i think i will do this myself - 1" or so on each side- but i really would like to pick up the wheels and maybe the rear suspension first. Planning on a AJE rear coilover setup but i may end up with the TCI stuff. IM also planning on building my own custom taillights - im keeping this one secret until its further along though it should be pretty cool.


    - anyone know how to figure out backspacing- ive read about it but not sure i trust my measurements. With the rear end out and wheels on it-30mm mach one 17" wheels 8" - they fit in the fenders perfect and i have a measurement to the outside of the tires of 66.5 inches. If i went with a 10.5" wheel with 27mm offset how much would i have to shorten the rear end? Thanks.
     

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  6. xsboost90

    xsboost90 Member

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    sat down and crunched the numbers on my rear offset/rear end. Decided to narrow the rear 1" on each side. Will start working on this soon and i need some Moser rear axels 1" shorter. Already ordered the new wheels as i wanted to fit them before i get the rear welded up.
     
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  7. xsboost90

    xsboost90 Member

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    after all the number crunching i ordered my new wheels- american muscle SC 17 x9 and 17x10's. i bought these expecting to narrow the rear end 1" on each side. When the wheels arrived i placed the rear end up in there and put the wheels on to get a visual. Looking at it some more i decided to not narrow the track width and instead to make some room! I cut the quarter and flared it 1" on the drivers side so far. Passenger side is getting a new quarter then i'll slice it up.
     

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  8. Bakesauce13

    Bakesauce13 New Member

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    Beautiful car I have a 64 1/2 too. Under where the original radio should be were those speakers?
     
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  9. xsboost90

    xsboost90 Member

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    there was a wood board in there with two small round speakers- looks like originally it was like a 4x6 or something in there. - in the top of the dash- under the dash was an a/c evaporator. They were fit by dealerships upon delivery.
     
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  10. xsboost90

    xsboost90 Member

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    getting the car ready for a move to the new house/garage. Got the front suspension in, motor and trans sitting in there and just ordered my aje rear suspension so it'll roll onto the trailer.
     

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  11. xsboost90

    xsboost90 Member

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    cant believe this thread is still here! Got the car to the new house and ended up rebuilding half of the 30x60 pole barn to get it usable for a shop. Just now getting back on the car but already making some progress. I got my AJE rear suspension before the move, but now im ditching the fox rear and bought a new 9" with fox body mounts to fit the aje rear setup. Also got some stainless headers, and finished welding up my wheel wells and have been rustproofing the car extensively with POR15 and inner panel sprays to keep the cancers away. Almost time to start laying some mud down and bed liner on the floors and under side. Keep ya posted from KY now.
     

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