I'm not sure if anyone else has had a similar dilemma when replacing or repairing the ignition switch on these, but seeing as how I just recently replaced mine for the 3rd time, and still am having issues, perhaps someone will relate. The 1st couple of switches I replaced I just assumed were error prone due to having had removed them a few times while tracing wiring problems and due to the pot metal fatiguing from vibration, etc. Last one I noticed the threads where the security screws go were stripping out so installed heli-coils and fixed that, replaced switch yet again because I was having cut-out problems after starting and driving for a few minutes. Well, now with a good tight connection, new switch, and the ability to tighten it down well again, the same issue is rearing it's ugly head after just a cpl of weeks. And the workaround being to wiggle key, back it off just until it kills the motor, then turn if back forward until the ignition kicks in again, after that it works until the next time I insert the key again. I guess my question is, would the small key shaped piece that is in the column with the rod on it possibly be wore or perhaps distorted maybe causing this to happen? I've never tried to remove it but noticed they sell them on LMR or somewhere for like $8....I'm so over working on this issue that I wish it was easy just to chop the whole thing out and replace with something a bit more reliable. If it wasn't for the dozens of assorted wires going through the switch I most likely would. Chalk up another engineering wonder similar to the heater core placement on these cars. Thanks for any input if someone has had similar issues. I notice my CEL seems to be going on and off erratically lately as well, I'm sure it feeds through this switch as well??