Long story short,
Bored 306
10 Psi Vortech b-trim
Tfs 170cc heads
Gt-40 lower/Cobra upper
Extrude and Honed
Ported and polished
Balanced and blueprinted
So here it goes...
Re-did the head gaskets, while I was at it I de-carboned the motor, re-did everything from the deck out as far as sensors, solenoids, IAC, EGR, ECT, ACT, TFI, Coil, MSD ignition box, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, 60 injectors, Pro M Mass air Calibrated to 60LB, 340 ML fuel pump, 3/8" fuel line, all new vacuum lines, TAB and TAD solenoids, literally everything but the PIP, o2 sensors, and EGR solenoid on the strut tower.
Car ran GREAT once it was back together, BUT I learned the hard way, not enough RTV on the lower intake is no fun. Oil leaks on both sides.
Had to REDO the lower intake Put it all back together, now it runs like a rough, bogged out mess with lean misfires. It's testing 90 for the cylinder test but feels rough to start, I have to put the pedal to the floor to cut off the injectors then it will barely start, and when it's finally warm and stays running the RPM gauge twitches down to 500RPM for a split second.
The cause?? Keep reading.
Here is the kicker and I think what did it, I messed up, bad, I know.
I arched the positive battery post on my strut tower stabilizer bar when I was putting it together the second time.
Twice I did this.
Sparks and all.
Many sparks lol
For a good couple of seconds.
I know that was bad trust me.
I burnt my finger as well. Third degree. On the Allen wrench tool I was using
So now I wonder if it's the ECU
After ....
rotating out all of the old pieces that I know worked on almost every part that was new and worked on the first run, I literally changed almost every sensor, tfi, coil, disconnected the igntion box, etc. to make sure I didn't fry one of them, but nothing fixed it. Zero. Nada. Still barely starts then runs like hog wash.
I'm stumped. At this point. Its Super hard to start, I have to floor the pedal to cut off the injectors to get it running, hits like a misfire and stumbled to start, pumping the gas pedal keeping the RPMs up, but smooths a little once it's warm, it has a random twitch is in the RPM gauge/motor at idle down to 500 RPM, even the code reader was being weird giving me code 4 and code 6 which are air bag codes, at one point
But they aren't even in the code book, the reader did seem to short and get shut off during a couple cylinder tests as well... i heard shorting readers can be the the ECU.
Driving it was a huge cutting out like the misfire of all misfires, then it would kick right back in and take off.
Basically, my question is, did I fry the computer? I'm thinking I did.
Or what am I not checking? Something I may have missed doing with the ignition? The PIP maybe?
The codes have been weird and all over when I pulled them while it was running. When I pulled this last time I got
11 for KOEO on both O and C which I usually always get.
Started it for about a minute after this and it lean misfired and stumbled so bad I just shut it off.
Plugged in the reader and had no Memory codes. Still 11 o and c
When I did get it running yesterday,
I got a code 66. Wasn't there before the intake redo either. Could I have fried the Pro-M Mass Air from the battery grounding? I read random codes can be an ECU or timing related issue as well. Is this true?
I got a code 94 but no 44. The cross over tubes and heads were spotless when it went back together. I replaced the TAB and TAD as I read a single code usually means it's the solenoid, Looks like 94 is gone.
Really there is no other codes that have come up outside of those that seems major.
Any help is appreciated.
Bored 306
10 Psi Vortech b-trim
Tfs 170cc heads
Gt-40 lower/Cobra upper
Extrude and Honed
Ported and polished
Balanced and blueprinted
So here it goes...
Re-did the head gaskets, while I was at it I de-carboned the motor, re-did everything from the deck out as far as sensors, solenoids, IAC, EGR, ECT, ACT, TFI, Coil, MSD ignition box, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, 60 injectors, Pro M Mass air Calibrated to 60LB, 340 ML fuel pump, 3/8" fuel line, all new vacuum lines, TAB and TAD solenoids, literally everything but the PIP, o2 sensors, and EGR solenoid on the strut tower.
Car ran GREAT once it was back together, BUT I learned the hard way, not enough RTV on the lower intake is no fun. Oil leaks on both sides.
Had to REDO the lower intake Put it all back together, now it runs like a rough, bogged out mess with lean misfires. It's testing 90 for the cylinder test but feels rough to start, I have to put the pedal to the floor to cut off the injectors then it will barely start, and when it's finally warm and stays running the RPM gauge twitches down to 500RPM for a split second.
The cause?? Keep reading.
Here is the kicker and I think what did it, I messed up, bad, I know.
I arched the positive battery post on my strut tower stabilizer bar when I was putting it together the second time.
Twice I did this.
Sparks and all.
Many sparks lol
For a good couple of seconds.
I know that was bad trust me.
I burnt my finger as well. Third degree. On the Allen wrench tool I was using
So now I wonder if it's the ECU
After ....
rotating out all of the old pieces that I know worked on almost every part that was new and worked on the first run, I literally changed almost every sensor, tfi, coil, disconnected the igntion box, etc. to make sure I didn't fry one of them, but nothing fixed it. Zero. Nada. Still barely starts then runs like hog wash.
I'm stumped. At this point. Its Super hard to start, I have to floor the pedal to cut off the injectors to get it running, hits like a misfire and stumbled to start, pumping the gas pedal keeping the RPMs up, but smooths a little once it's warm, it has a random twitch is in the RPM gauge/motor at idle down to 500 RPM, even the code reader was being weird giving me code 4 and code 6 which are air bag codes, at one point
But they aren't even in the code book, the reader did seem to short and get shut off during a couple cylinder tests as well... i heard shorting readers can be the the ECU.
Driving it was a huge cutting out like the misfire of all misfires, then it would kick right back in and take off.
Basically, my question is, did I fry the computer? I'm thinking I did.
Or what am I not checking? Something I may have missed doing with the ignition? The PIP maybe?
The codes have been weird and all over when I pulled them while it was running. When I pulled this last time I got
11 for KOEO on both O and C which I usually always get.
Started it for about a minute after this and it lean misfired and stumbled so bad I just shut it off.
Plugged in the reader and had no Memory codes. Still 11 o and c
When I did get it running yesterday,
I got a code 66. Wasn't there before the intake redo either. Could I have fried the Pro-M Mass Air from the battery grounding? I read random codes can be an ECU or timing related issue as well. Is this true?
I got a code 94 but no 44. The cross over tubes and heads were spotless when it went back together. I replaced the TAB and TAD as I read a single code usually means it's the solenoid, Looks like 94 is gone.
Really there is no other codes that have come up outside of those that seems major.
Any help is appreciated.