95 Cobra = Stalls

[Labora]

Been dealing with some problems with my car randomly stalling out, or having a hard time starting (takes a lot of time cranking over to restart).

Was curious if anyone has dealt with a bad steering column before and if so what did it do when it went out? (If so what did you have to replace?) The car never fails to start but I’m just trying to figure out if this could be a source of my problem or not. Column in this car is not the one that came in the car new but it has been installed for 2~ years so I’m not so sure it seems somewhat unlikely it would have issues.

Also I’m suspecting something may be up with the MAF or connection to it. I’ve yet to get any CEL throughout this whole ordeal but it seems most likely to stall while under part throttle acceleration/deceleration. Is there a proper way to test it? Also anyone know a place to get a 94-95 Cobra MAF for a decent price? (If replacing a MAF solved all your problems what was your car doing beforehand?)

Thanks for any help.

 

[BlackVert]

if it is running normally and then just stalls out of the blue after it is warmed up, but starts up after sitting a while, i would suspect the PIP in the distributor

 

[hollywoodstang]

if it is running normally and then just stalls out of the blue after it is warmed up, but starts up after sitting a while, i would suspect the PIP in the distributor

I agree with this also. but changing the PIP is PITA. so just get new or remanufactured distributor.

What does your steering column got to do with stalling???

 

[Labora]

What does your steering column got to do with stalling???

Last I checked you needed the column to send some sort of signal to the coil/computer to keep the car turned on? Now being that we know this to be true if that link was to break would it not cause the car to stall or have other issues? Which is why my question is aimed at someone who perhaps has gone down that path for whatever reason.

When you've dealt with a issue for going on 7 months you try and think of any and all possibilities. The ignition has a sloppy and loose feeling and it is not the original steering column since this one is a used one because the original was smashed to bits when the car was stolen.

I've also already replaced the dist 3x, TFI 4x, coil x3, Swapped computers, and changed the CCRM. (short list among other things)

 

[94GTCoupe]

TFI are not as prone to failure(but still can)on the 94-95 ,since unlike the fox bodies,the TFI is away from the engine in it's own heat sink.it's not uncommon to get a bad or poorly rebuilt dizzy.

could try and pull the igniton switch from the column and check out all the terminals,take a look at the wiring within the column aswell for any cracks,breaks,or other signs of shorts.

 

[hollywoodstang]

 

[hollywoodstang]

Check for this kind of problem like the other guy did.

 

[Labora]

Check for this kind of problem like the other guy did.

My headlight switch connector looks like that. (I assume PO left lights on and it got super hot.)


Anyhow where is that connection in the picture? And is it ignition related? Link to other thread?

I don't foresee a headlight switch being connected to the ignition system in any shape but if I'm incorrect or it could have any adverse effects that could be related please fill me in.

 

[94GTCoupe]

yeah,thats the headlight switch connector in pic above.i think he's using that as an example of the damage to look for on the ignition switch connector harness that connects to the ignition switch in pic below.

when you turn the key,it moves a slide within the column that is attached to the pin,which selects either ACC,RUN,START,or LOCK on the switch.depending on which way you turn the key.

 

[94GTCoupe]

i'm glad to help you troubleshoot your problem,but to be honest,it sounds exactly like a bad PIP in the dizzy.i had the exact same problems as stated in your original post that only a new dizzy solved.i replaced the ICM,coil,wires, plugs,cap and rotor,even the ignition switch.still crank for a long time before it would start,stall while driving,till no matter how long i would crank it over it would not start.finally broke down and spent the cash on a reman dizzy,been fine ever since.

 

[Labora]

i'm glad to help you troubleshoot your problem,but to be honest,it sounds exactly like a bad PIP in the dizzy.i had the exact same problems as stated in your original post that only a new dizzy solved.i replaced the ICM,coil,wires, plugs,cap and rotor,even the ignition switch.still crank for a long time before it would start,stall while driving,till no matter how long i would crank it over it would not start.finally broke down and spent the cash on a reman dizzy,been fine ever since.

I've already replaced the dizzy 3x since this started. (I really don't trust these reman electrical parts but after 3.....)

I'll have to pull out my Ford book and see how to tear apart the column to get to that switch.

 

[94GTCoupe]

disconnect neg battery cable,wait a few mins

remove steering column shroud

disengage wiring harness connector from the ignition switch

insert key,turn to RUN position

remove two screws attaching the ignition switch

disengage ignition switch from actuator pin and remove the switch.

----install----

adjust new switch by sliding the carrier to the run position

ensure key is in the run position

install ignition switch onto actuator pin

align switch mounting holes and install attaching screws,50-69 inch pounds

attach electrial connector to ignition switch

connect battery,check switch for proper function in START,and ACC position.make sure the column is locked in the LOCK position

install shroud

(Chilton's)

 

[Labora]

I checked that switch today and it was very clean and had no burn marks or the like on it.

Trying to get a hold a MAF that I can swap on.

 

[94GTCoupe]

have you tried cleaning the MAF?

 

[desertcox05]

+1 for cleaning the maf

 

[rj95svt]

94-95 GT's and cobras have the same MAF so it should not be to hard to find a replacement.

Does the car start right back up after it dies or do you have to wait a few minutes?

 

[Chythar]

Hey, that hand looks mighty familiar....

Davis3 is right, that's a sample of the kind of damage a headlight switch can cause. However, it will not cause ignition trouble, just trouble with your headlights.

Cleaning your MAF is a good start, do a search in the forums for that. When you replaced the distributor, did you replace the cap and rotor too, or just take them from the old one? I had weird stalling issues, turned out to be corroded contacts in the distributor cap.

 

[Labora]

Maf has been cleaned yes.

New cap and rotor.

Unplugging Maf does not change the condition of the car not running. (The computer will let the car run without the MAF) But I'm going to borrow one anyhow....

Once car gets hot it will not restart until it has set +4 hours I assume. (usually overnight before I try again)

 

[HISSIN50]

I'm late to the game and probably missed this stuff:

When it won't start, have you checked for spark and injector pulsing? Knowing this and backtesting the TFI if you are missing one or both will be telling.

Very crude MAF number generalities: at idle look for it to be under 1.0 volt. At 60 mph it should be around 2.0 volts. Remember, this is super crude - the guys that DL can give you more precise numbers. I'd be more concerned with the trend than absolute numbers however. The trend is like that of a TPS in that it increases as airflow requirements do, but note that it's not linear.

The 2 MAF pins on the EEC that I can think of are Pin 9 and 50. I cant remember which is the signal return though. Someone will know. I just hook a meter to this wire (at the EEC) and have an assistant watch the DMM while you drive. Look for dips or other anomalies.

It kinda feels like a MAF issue and you're already running in FMEM because unplugging the MAF doesnt change the issue. If that was the case though, the CEL would be screaming at you.

 

[Labora]

I'm late to the game and probably missed this stuff:

When it won't start, have you checked for spark and injector pulsing? Knowing this and backtesting the TFI if you are missing one or both will be telling.

Very crude MAF number generalities: at idle look for it to be under 1.0 volt. At 60 mph it should be around 2.0 volts. Remember, this is super crude - the guys that DL can give you more precise numbers. I'd be more concerned with the trend than absolute numbers however. The trend is like that of a TPS in that it increases as airflow requirements do, but note that it's not linear.

The 2 MAF pins on the EEC that I can think of are Pin 9 and 50. I cant remember which is the signal return though. Someone will know. I just hook a meter to this wire (at the EEC) and have an assistant watch the DMM while you drive. Look for dips or other anomalies.

It kinda feels like a MAF issue and you're already running in FMEM because unplugging the MAF doesnt change the issue. If that was the case though, the CEL would be screaming at you.

I have checked for spark in the past, I need to do it again it was many parts ago.....

As for injector pulsing no again but I was actually planning to do this one as well glad you brought it up.

As for your last bit the car has never thrown a CEL very frustrating.