'95 GT Long Tubes

[Muy_Pyro]

Just wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction here ... I'm trying to make an educated decision on exhaust for my '95 GTS, but there don't seem to be many options for LT's (aside from BBK and MAC). Do they make Bassani, Hooker or Kooks for '95s? Quality matters as well as performance to me.
Also, there's a chart for HP/TRQ gains for Cat-Back systems on here ... does anyone know where there's something similar for Headers?
Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[95snoozer]

macs are good and make power, BBKs are nice and make power

now hookers havea tru 3 bolt end to end flange like chevy stuff so it is a smooth transition.

there was a test of BBK shorties UL and EL, and LTs 1 and 5/8 and 1 3/4 and then 1 3/4 hookers (or kooks) which murdered them

again this was on a heads cam 347

what are your mods?

 

[Muy_Pyro]

Guess I should have included a mod list ... it's short: CAI, C&L 76mm MAF, TruFlow Inlet Pipe, BBK Under Pully Kit, Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump, BBK FPR, B&M Short Throw Shifter. Also I was told it has a Magnaflow Cat-Back when I bought the car... but I'm not sure how to verify that, never noticed any markings.

 

[95snoozer]

you will be happy with MAC long tubes and a prochamber... it will sound fantastic

 

[redsn95]

if you find a set that doesn't interfere with the steering shaft and require the assistance of a bfh let me know. i've tried mac, bbk, and hooker. they fit takes some persuasion though.

 

[sldghmr]

if you find a set that doesn't interfere with the steering shaft and require the assistance of a bfh let me know. i've tried mac, bbk, and hooker. they fit takes some persuasion though.

Ummm, maybe I got lucky, but my BBK LT's went on without a hitch. Had them bolted on in under 2 hours (everything jacking, removing shortys & H-pipe, installing, and jacking down) and didn't even unbolt the starter. Just removed strut tower brace and disconnected steering shaft. Hardest part was the very 1st bolt in the front (behind the power steering pump), just wanted to be a P.I.M.A. Never hammered a thing, but will admit that I got lazy and bought the O2 extension things instead of cutting and splicing

 

[red ink]

I tried splicing my o2's, I never could get it right. Its way easier to just buy the extenders.

My macs have a normal fit on the passenger side but the driver side has a tube that is all banged up and pinched along the transmission's clutch flange. It was pinched against my t-5, and still looks like it's damn close to my tko-500. Any suggestions for what i should do when i get a nice side of hookers? i dont want them to get banged up like my macs.

 

[Muy_Pyro]

Where's the best place to find Hooker/Kooks LT's for a '95? I can't find them anywhere... can you use Pre-94/95 model headers on a '95?

 

[1slow95]

If price isn't an issue, you can get the Kooks from www.kookscustomheaders.com. I just got some for my 418 swap and they are niiiiice.

 

[Muy_Pyro]

That looks nice! Thanks for the link. I also just found a dealer in my area; so I'll have to pay them a visit. One last question, 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 ?? Is that the Diameter of the primaries? How to decided what to choose?

 

[RIO5.0]

Well I'll be damned....Kooks run individual flanges.....and they say's thats voodoo....
Damn those are nice...don't see no tubing kinks at the head with those Betty's...
I run Mac LTs/Prochamber....no complaints, had no assy/clearance issues....I would spring for ceramic if you go either Mac/BBK...

 

[sldghmr]

Man that 418 looks sweet! I would have thought that Kooks were one flange also. Interesting....anyways, I think I'd have to chip in to get that crusty ole water pump off the front of that bad boy!

 

[final5-0]

I've been running the Mac 1 5/8 lt's for over two years now and have had no probs of any kind.

The fit was fine with no probs.

For a 302-306 NA street combo you will want to go with 1 5/8.

For your O2's you can buy the ready made extensions to get some more length.
If you choose to lengthen the wiring yourself, be sure to lengthen the car harness, NOT the harness of the O2. I spliced my car harness and all has been good.

For what it is worth, I have seen various things lately that make me suspect you would make more power with the Hooker lt's due to the fact that they don't have the ball & socket type of collector connection that Snoozer was talking about in his post.

Your Q about a chart showing the gains from lt's. You most likely could Google up something to research but for many years now, it has been a well known fact that lt's will give more low & mid rpm range gain than shortys. The top end is about the same between the two.

btw....post count #4....Welcome!!!

Later
Grady

 

[Muy_Pyro]

Thanks for the welcome (I've actually been lurking for awhile now) and for the helpful info everyone; I appreciate it! I'll see if I can find any comparasons and post the results. ... If anyone stumbles across a good price on Hooker/Kooks for a '95 please let me know!

 

[1slow95]

Man that 418 looks sweet! I would have thought that Kooks were one flange also. Interesting....anyways, I think I'd have to chip in to get that crusty ole water pump off the front of that bad boy!

The Kooks go in one tube at a time, hence the individual flanges.

I just used the crusty ole water pump to get the timing cover gasket to seal. The new water pump will be here tuesday.

 

[red ink]

The Kooks go in one tube at a time, hence the individual flanges.

I like my macs cuz i can change individual header gaskets when i decide to overrev and blow my gaskets out.

 

[nmcgrawj]

Hey guys,

Just as an alternative to Kooks and the others, Accufab has custom headers too http://accufabracing.com/exhaust.htm#HeadBolts that seem to be up there with kooks and have great quality. They come with a paint that will burn off so i plan on using por 15 high temp paint that looks like the headers below. They also have a black finish. These are the pictures of a guy off the corral took when he sold them on ebay.

I talked to the header guy at Accufab and he is great to work with. Explains everything about all the different designs out there...search on hardcore50.com about some stuff too. His name is George Klass. He told me about the spiral scavenging affect by placing the tubes correctly in the collector so that they pull the gases out better i think. Im still a little confused as to how u build it. And how a lot of guys think too big when running headers...1 3/4" should be plenty for MOST applications. Its like an hour glass...like he told me....the bottom doesnt change how fast the sand comes down. Only the middle part. So having header primaries that are much bigger than your actual exhaust valve is pointless.

Anyway, i paid $500 for these 1 3/4" long tube headers.

 

[final5-0]

Nate

Did George say you should run the 1 3/4 size?

Later
Grady

 

[nmcgrawj]

Nate

Did George say you should run the 1 3/4 size?

Later
Grady

Yea...but thats just because im going with a 351w next. My shortblock exploded (for lack of a better term) about 2 weeks ago. He said 1 3/4" will be just fine even when i stroke it to a 408 in 2 years when i get out of school

 

[final5-0]

Yea...but thats just because im going with a 351w next. My shortblock exploded (for lack of a better term) about 2 weeks ago. He said 1 3/4" will be just fine even when i stroke it to a 408 in 2 years when i get out of school

I did not know about your plans to go for the extra cubes

The larger lt's will be right at home on that motor

I'd like to go with a Windsor some day

Later
Grady