Aeromotive Pressure Creep

[ChromdOutDubs]

For some reason my aeromotive is having a ton of issues with pressure creep. It will be at a steady 7.25 PSI then will just start creeping up. It maxes the gauge out at 15 PSI and sometimes if its not creeping its all over the place. Its an Aeromotive 13205 dead-head regulator and a Aeromotive Pump. I just started having issues with this and im just trying to get to the bottom of it. When i get the pressure creep it starts pushing fuel past my needle and seats in the carb which is flooding my motor and stalling it out at the track.

Thanks guys

 

[Celeb]

The regulator is letting 15psi though even when you have it dialed down to 7 and a half initially?

I'd say the regulator.

 

[ChromdOutDubs]

The regulator is letting 15psi though even when you have it dialed down to 7 and a half initially?

Yes, it will go to 7.25 PSI for a few seconds, ill crank the car and it will stay there for a short amount of time. Then it slows starts to rise up untill it pegs the gauge at 15 PSI. Sometimes its bouncing around 3-4 PSI. The thing is all over the place. Its not the gauge because i have two gauges on the thing (one under the hood and one in the cowl) both are high quality Auto Meter gauges.

-AJ

 

[goodfastncheap]

You're powering the pump with a 12 ga. wire from a relay and the ground is clean and tight, right?

 

[Celeb]

If you have another regulator laying around...slap it in and see where it puts you. A regulator dialed down to 7 and a half should stop 15psi from passing through.

 

[ChromdOutDubs]

You're powering the pump with a 12 ga. wire from a relay and the ground is clean and tight, right?

Yes i believe so, I can double check that when i get home though. That shouldn't cause the regulator to have a pressure creep though, i wouldn't think.

AJ

 

[BK_CAULEY]

If you have a crappy 12v connection and the electric pump isnt working 100% the set pressure @ 7 psi will be that with less pump pressure. and if somwhere during the car moving the pump is making a better connection and getting the needed 12v it will push the pump harder and push past the set 7psi set at the weaker pump pressure.

 

[ChromdOutDubs]

If you have a crappy 12v connection and the electric pump isnt working 100% the set pressure @ 7 psi will be that with less pump pressure. and if somwhere during the car moving the pump is making a better connection and getting the needed 12v it will push the pump harder and push past the set 7psi set at the weaker pump pressure.

Hmm I never thought of that... Could very well be the issue. Battery also seemed a bit weak, maybe the combination of the two... Ill check all these possible things out.

 

[Rick 91GT]

If you have a crappy 12v connection and the electric pump isnt working 100% the set pressure @ 7 psi will be that with less pump pressure. and if somwhere during the car moving the pump is making a better connection and getting the needed 12v it will push the pump harder and push past the set 7psi set at the weaker pump pressure.

Ive seen that first hand, good call

I assume this is the motor regulator, your running other regulators for the N20 right?

The best N2O FPR regulator due to barely any creep is the cheap old Holley chrome units believe it or not..lol

 

[ChromdOutDubs]

Ive seen that first hand, good call

I assume this is the motor regulator, your running other regulators for the N20 right?

The best N2O FPR regulator due to barely any creep is the cheap old Holley chrome units believe it or not..lol

Rick

This is the motor regulator. The funny thing is i put a brand new holley blue and holley regulator combo on for the nitrous a few days ago, and its stays at 6PSI rock steady, no issues from it. This high dollar aeromotive is just ****ty. Do the cheap holley regs not work good for the engine? or do they just work good for the N20 setup...

I don't have a volt meter in the car, so i have no idea if the battery was charged... i don't turn my fan on until the car is cranked for a few seconds. Do you think when I'm turning the fan on its spiking the electrical or something causing the fluctuation in current going to the pump. I don't know if this is happening, just thinking out loud.

 

[BK_CAULEY]

I dont think the fan would be the issue. just check it out man. put a test light on the 12v wire going to your pump AFTER you made sure you have a nice clean solid connection on the pump and turn on everything. watch the voltage. If it drops move on to your charging system. if it doesnt drop look towards a regulator.

 

[Celeb]

I would be more prone to associate an abnormally low pressure to being pump/vapor lock/electrical issue and a pressure too high as being more a pump/regulator problem, Seing as how you have them both, it could be a combination.

The regulator still should be stepping the pressure down at the carb inlet regardless of what fluctuations might be occuring before it, especially a pressure high enough to unseat the needle, as you mentioned.

 

[BK_CAULEY]

The regulator still should be stepping the pressure down at the carb inlet regardless of what fluctuations might be occuring before it.

Not true. example- this is purely theoretical. Pump pressure = 50 psi / and regulator closes and brings pressure to 7 psi, the regulator has less volume running through it so doesnt have to close as far to bring it to 7 psi. now if the pump is pushing 75 psi and the regulator is still set to the 7psi @ 50 pump psi setting the regulator will be more open allowing more pressure to push past it. a manual regulator witihout a vacuum reference cannot compensate for different pressures. You can only set it for one determining pressure and it must stay at set pump pressure to keep th eregulated pressure accurate.

 

[Celeb]

Not true. example- this is purely theoretical. Pump pressure = 50 psi / and regulator closes and brings pressure to 7 psi, the regulator has less volume running through it so doesnt have to close as far to bring it to 7 psi. now if the pump is pushing 75 psi and the regulator is still set to the 7psi @ 50 pump psi setting the regulator will be more open allowing more pressure to push past it. a manual regulator witihout a vacuum reference cannot compensate for different pressures. You can only set it for one determining pressure and it must stay at set pump pressure to keep th eregulated pressure accurate.

Yea but is he running a 50~ psi pump and stepping it down to 7 with a dead head reg. or is he using a carbureted pump and stepping 14 or so down to 7? Sorry, don't know the build history.

 

[BK_CAULEY]

thats why i said thoeretically. same effect no matter what pressure.

 

[Rick 91GT]

I know it's amzing those cheap little $25 regulators work so well ain't it? Some guys still use them on the motor but I have success with the Aeromotive, MagnaFuel and Weldon stuff.

The 13205 is pretty good with creep, it was designed to help against it...


What pump are you running? PT#'s? What size lines?

On big pumps I still prefer a return style or bypass system even with the carb, just to keep the pressure off the regulator.

Brett @ Aeromotive is a great tech contact, you might want to give him a shout after you verify some readings as well (913) 647-7300.

 

[Cobra912]

good info Rick

 

[Rick 91GT]

good info Rick

Tim Hortons huh? I hit them when I'm up in Oakville, Canada...scwharma

 

[Rick 91GT]

Any update?

 

[goodfastncheap]

Brett @ Aeromotive is a great tech contact, you might want to give him a shout after you verify some readings as well (913) 647-7300.

BIG x2 on this, I talked to Brett several times on Friday and he patiently solved a couple of problems I had, not just on the regulator, but the entire fuel system...

I strongly recommend that the OP call Brett. One of the better techs out there, any company.