Anti-Theft for Earlier Mustangs?

[michael1]

I'm restoring a '69 fastback and while it's driveable, i'd like a bit more peace of mind knowing I'd taken some antitheft measures as I don't have a garage to store it in. Outside of a couple of kill switches wired into the distributor circuit, I'm thinking of putting a fuel line cutoff near the tank, valve handle extending through the floor pan under the back seat. Years ago in Houston, i recall seeing a similar valve that installed in the floor pan only using a key to rotate the valve stem to the off/on position desired. Can't find one now but you get the idea. Hood locks are easy to spot once inside so I figured disabling the car would be the best bet.
And what's a good, basic alarm setup? Most now rely on some of the electronic systems inherent in today's models, and thus, are probably not suitable. I cobbled one together while in Houston for my '65 using a lockswitch, relay and flasher module to sound the horn but it will continue to 'blare' off/on until the thing is reset. Your suggestions, please!

Michael

 

[p0prcksandc0ke]

i dont know of a good alarm system but a nra and cop sticker works pretty good my cars always outside unlocked but i also have to big dogs that scares everone away

 

[suki243]

I'm pretty sure practically any aftermarket alarm would work just requires relays. The PO of my car put an aftermarket one and it worked pretty well, but... I didn't like it. I was thinking of putting a Viper alarm on mine, its a alarm company. I've only heard good things about them, only problem is that they're expensive.

Other security measure you can take is something called the T-lock, i'm not sure if 65s and 69s have the same shifter, but what it does is that it locks the shifter into park, no modifications are necessary except the replacement of the shifter handle with this new one. I've been searching for one for a while now, the guy who was making it doesn't answer his emails any more and ppl on other forums have been trying to get a hold of him as well... no luck yet.
http://home.teleport.com/~cosa/vap/TLock.htm

I have a question, I was also thinking about putting a fuel line cutoff on mine, but someone i know pointed out that if you do start the car without opening the valve air will also go into teh fuel tank eventually, even after you open the valve after. is that true? and if so is it bad?

 

[88gt]

PM sent...can't let all...ok my only secret out to everyone!!!

 

[StangDreamin']

I'm thinking about a latching relay supplying power to the Pertronix 2 myself; activated/deactivated by a "hidden in plain sight" switch. No switch, no "fire in the hole". And with an FMX tranny; I don't think the starter is gonna move the car very far before the battery expires

As for break-in's; I'm thinking of a little more "Rube Goldberg" arrangement involving a 2nd switch and latching relay, a timed solenoid and a 7-1/2 oz can of OC spray in one of the driver's side A/C vents

 

[SadbutTrue]

ive got the standard cigarette lighter wired as a kill switch and use my 'club' in bad areas. my brothers 85 vette had a viper alarm and it was more trouble than it was worth...

my dad, before we put the kill switch on, would just pop the distributor cap and take the rotor with him. it was a pretty good strategy.

 

[rbohm]

a few things you can do;

1: a couple of kill switches where both have to be activated to start the car. you might even use both of them to disable seperate systems.

2: a fuel line lock. there is no problem if you forget to turn it on other than the car stalls from lack of fuel.

3: if you have a manual transmission, you can use a pedal lock that locks both pedals together. if you have a floor shift auto you can get a lock that wont let the trans shift out of park.

4: the grant vehicle security system. this way you can remove the steering wheel and lock it in the truck, and lock the column so that another wheel cannot be installed. this works best with a column that has a built in wheel lock actvated by the ignition switch, but even on vintage cars, it is hard to steer any car, even with power steering, with a 4" diameter wheel.

5: a line lock for the brakes. this is where you push the brake pedal down and hold it in place and lock the line lock. that makes it tough to drive, even if they get past the other systems.

the best thing is to layer your systems, but make them easy for you to use, otherwise you wont use them.

 

[chepsk8]

Anything can be defeated!

I have done the following in the past:

Mechanical valve on the fuel line (this WORKS!) in the trunk.
If you have an electric fuel pump, hidden dis-connect.
Pull the distributor rotor

Remember, all you need is a screwdriver, and a jumper wire long enough to get from the starter solenoid to the coil to start an old Mustang, so think mechanically dis-abling.

 

[bnickel]

i'm looking for a locking inside hood release/latch from a late 70's to mid 80's ford pickup, it uses a key to lock like the trunk key to lock the latch on the inside of the cab. my dad had one on his 81 f-100, awesome anti theft device, especially if you have an ignition cut out under the hood or just take the rotor, add a fuel cutoff in the trunk and the only way the car is going anywhere is if it's towed.

 

[michael1]

What's a good fuel line lock or valve? I've been looking for a surface-mount valve but don't see these any more at either the hardware store or auto supply. AND--has anyone considered just using a boot, like some police or security services use to prevent it from being moved?