Anybody running a 363, how does your car perform?

stangboy

Founding Member
Aug 31, 1999
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New Orleans, LA
Hey guys I'm trying to get an idea of how my car will perform with the combo I'm building. I've been watching Youtube videos of cars with similar setups but there aren't many videos of cars with 363s in them, just 347s. So, if you have a n/a or nitrous fed 363 in your stang let me know what hp/tq numbers you're putting down and what kind of times you are getting at the track. Thanks in advance.

From the research I've done I'm thinking I should probably make approximately 425rwhp n/a. With that hp# I'm hoping to run at least mid 11s. I'll take whatever the nitrous will give me. I'm still debating over 150 or 200 shot. I'll make a final decision when I see what the car does n/a.
 
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whats the car weigh? and what kinda compression?if it didnt go 10's NA with a 205 headed 363 id be kinda upset. should have an issue going 9's on a 150-200 hit.

most guys i kno with big 8.2 deck motors run blowers. but google jason lee, he runs a high port headed 363 with an F1X and at 3250 hes been 7.30's@192
 
I haven't weighed the car yet but it has full interior. I'll get it on a scale as soon as I get it back on the road. When Rick91GT calculated it for me I think he came up with 9.6:1. As for weight savings I plan to have full UPR suspension under the car. You can check out my build thread and see everything I'm planning and all the parts I have so far.

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/my-first-notch-build-thread.863987/

So I should be expecting 10s? Wow! I that would be AWESOME!! :banana: A n/a 10-second street legal car is the ultimate sleeper. :cool: I hope you're right! I was told by the machinist that will be machining and building the shortblock that the motor should easily make 500+ at the crank. If I can pull off anything better than a 10.9xx on Mickey Thompson DRs I don't think I'll need more than 150 shot. I'd like to put a turbo on the car but I just don't see myself having that kind of money in the near future. Maybe in about 5 years or so.
 
Mine is a 369 (a 363 .030 over). Made 425 rwhp and 425 rwtq. Ran an 11.6 at 121 mph, leaving at 2500 rpm with drag radials. Any higher launch rpm gave me tire spin, suspension is set up for handling, not drag racing. CR is 10.6, AFR 185 comps, relatively mild cam (223/227 duration at .050). Car weighs around 3000 without me in it.
 
Mine is a 369 (a 363 .030 over). Made 425 rwhp and 425 rwtq. Ran an 11.6 at 121 mph, leaving at 2500 rpm with drag radials. Any higher launch rpm gave me tire spin, suspension is set up for handling, not drag racing. CR is 10.6, AFR 185 comps, relatively mild cam (223/227 duration at .050). Car weighs around 3000 without me in it.

That mph is good for 11.0x or 10.99 in perfect weather conditions. You guys are starting to get me more excited about my car's future.
 
Go over on the Corral and check out some of the customers of Woody at Ford Strokers. He's done a bajillion 363s, and they're damn impressive every time. 363 is truly the way to go with an 8.2 deck motor.
 
All day today I've been reading a thread on the Corral about a guy with a forstrokers 347 on a quest for 10 second time slips... with an AOD. I was about to buy a shortblock from fordstrokers before my friend offered me the deal I couldn't pass up. I would love to have Woody build my motor its just not cost effective to ship all my parts to him, have him build the shortblock, THEN ship it back to me. I'll be paying a fortune in just shipping. I'm a memeber of sbfbuilding.com and I'm convince that Woody knows his $h!t.
 
gonna be making it hard on yourself with radials and a clutch
Yeah I know but I won't be running on the track that often to warrant buying a set of slicks. So I think I might get a set of Welds with Mickey Thompson DRs instead of slicks and I'll just use my 17" DRs for normal street driving. I'll see how they hold. If they don't stick with a moderately hard launch maybe I'll look for a set of used slicks.
 
Do you have a hatchback or a notchback?

Also, i know its not legal, but ive driven to and from the track(65 miles one way) on 28xs10.5 stiff wall slicks. They are just as stable on the highway as drag radials. The only drawback of them vs my MT drag radials is that on the slicks if it rains you are really screwed, on the drag radials, you are just screwed. Sicks just make it so much easier at the track. Just do a burnout, drop the clutch, and do wheelies. With the radials, you have to slip the clutch in 1st till the shift light is ready to flash at you, and if the prep isnt right, forget about it.

With what you are planning on building, there is no reason the car wont go 10's if you buy the top end parts right the first time.