ARGHHHH... My bellhousing's Cracked!

J

Jeffs88

Member
Feb 8, 2009
86
0
7
Northeast Ohio
#1
Pulling my starter out yesterday, I'm laying on the creeper just looking around under the car and WTF!! The bellhousing is cracked from the opening for the fork downward to the bottom center of the BH. I can actually wiggle the drivers side of the housing back and forth!

Just bought the car in mid January, My first hot rod in quite a few years, had it trailered home and I've only driven it once! Now can't drive till I replace it!!

Yankin the trans and replacing the bellhousing wasn't on my list of fixes and mods at the moment.

Anyone in the Detroit area know where I can get one!

I've checked Craigslist, there's a couple but include the trans and seller wont seperate, I know I can get a new one but didn't want to spend $180.00 or the 430+ for a scattersheild. Milan Dragway's message board comes up empty.

Any other Idea's on where to source one this time of year would be greatly appreciated

It's an 88 GT with t-5.

on a side note, in researching my trans and referencing the code 1352-065 it looks like it has the 2.95 first gear.

For those of you that have been at this Fox body thing for a while, Do you prefer this ratio or the 3.35 first gear ratio? The car is supposed to have 3.73's in it but I don't have proof. I know you can measure by tire rotation vs. Driveshaft rotation but can anyone help with that formula?

The one I found on craigslist is going for 200.00. he's firm on price and said it was out of an 89. Maybe I should pick it up and have an extra trans or keep the housing and sell one of the trans to offset the cost........

Sorry for the long post and rant so early in my membership, just a little t'd off by this discovery........

Jeff
 

  • Sponsors (?)


#3
when you break somthing upgrage it. Get a steel bellhousing for that year mustang it will never give you a problem again its heavy duty and if you ever break the cast irion fly wheel you have it wont damage the car or your leg. its what i use. go on the Jegs web site look it up JEGS High Performance - Your source for Edelbrock MSD Holley Mr. Gasket Moroso.

To check you gear in the rear end jack the car up and rotate the rear tire and count how many times the drive shaft rotates with one rotation of the tire and thats your gear

Im pretty sure sure the stock rear end was a 3.08 I run a 4.10 and unless your gonna drag i would use a 3.73 or a 3.55 the 3.73 is a little more fun big second gear burn outs with ease
 
#8
ID89GT said:
I'd see if I can find what caused it to crack in the first place so it don't happen again.
Click to expand...

I plan on inspecting everything as I disassemble it all this weekend.

"Take it to a welding shop and have them repair it. Should save you some money if you don't have the funds to replace with a steel unit. I had a one piece auto trans repaired this way with no problems."

I actually am considering it, but only as a last resort. Id rather put another one in there. As far as a steel one goes, it's not an option currently unless I can find one at a swap meet or something. Being up in the snowbelt it will be awhile before that happens.......
 
#9
Check ebay. They are cheap and easy to come by. I know some guys ask $50+ for them but i've found a few for $15-20.

Just make sure you get an E6 bellhousing. The E3 bell will fit but it's for a 10" clutch and the F4 bell is for the longer SN95 trans


As for your 065 trans it's a 1984 NON- WC T-5 with the 2.95 first gear. It's been swapped out.
 
#10
Mustang5L5 said:
Check ebay. They are cheap and easy to come by. I know some guys ask $50+ for them but i've found a few for $15-20.

Just make sure you get an E6 bellhousing. The E3 bell will fit but it's for a 10" clutch and the F4 bell is for the longer SN95 trans


As for your 065 trans it's a 1984 NON- WC T-5 with the 2.95 first gear. It's been swapped out.
Click to expand...


I did check e-bay the other day. Only one on there and it wasn't cheap and he wanted 30 bucks I think to ship it. It is somewhere to check everyday though.

I knew the info about my trans but thanks anyway, I was more looking for opinions if anybody has one about the first gear ratio. 2.95 VS. 3.35.

I can get a trans with bellhousing here locally for 200.00. The guy said it was out of an 89. I'd check the # on it to be sure. If I get it I would have the later bellhousing and I could possibly use that trans, instead of the one I have if there is an advantage to that ( WC and 3.35 first gear VS. non WC and 2.95 first gear) and keep the other for a spare or sell it.

If it is out of an 89 would it be a world class? That might be a good reason to pick it up, just for that reason.
 
#11
ID89GT said:
I'd see if I can find what caused it to crack in the first place so it don't happen again.
Click to expand...

Another question I have is:

There is no dust cover on the car nor any kind of block plate at all. It seems to me that the dust cover would play a part in stabilizing the lower part of the bellhousing by tying it all together? my messed up logic tells me that it not being there weakens that area and played a part in it cracking.

Also, should there be anykind of plate or spacer there between block and bellhousing? I want to have all the right pieces before I put her back together......
 
#12
Yes, there is a plate that goes behind the flywheel that sandwiches between the bellhousing and block.

Also, there is a dust cover over the clutch fork.

I betyou have an E3 bellhousing as well. The flywheel prob hit it and may have contributed to the crack.

If you are going to pick up a used T-5 get a 1990+. They are stonger than the 85-89 WC t-5's.

The stronger t-5 actually started mid 1989, so you'll have to get the tag number off than 1989 t-5 to tell if it's the 265 ft-lb version or the newer 300- ft-lbs gearset.

Something tells me your car was swapped to a 5-spd and parts were used from an older Mustang and not really done correctly.
 
#13
Well it's missing the plate and the dust cover over the fork so I'll have to get those from somewhere......

It is an original 5sp car but I have been trying to research it's past a little.

The Kid I bought it from told me a about quite a few things that had been done to the car by his buddy who had it before him. I was Most interested in the engine rebuild he claimed was done 20K miles ago. .030 over, E7 heads, e303 cam but has stock intake, valve covers etc. I asked him to get the build sheet from his friend so I could know exactly what was done. He said he'd try, called and said he had it and would scan and e-mail it, Blah Blah. Long story short I never got it and I'm convinced the Kid's a story teller.

I bought it in Ohio and their title's have the previous owners name and address on them. This kid never even changed the title to his name so I have 2 names on the title I can research. I found the most recent owners phone # and spoke to his father, he said the trans had a problem and his son switched it out but thats all he did and he only had it for about 6 months. So I question an engine rebuild but it is very clean without any built up crap all over it. I'm gonna keep trying to locate the guy who owned it before to see if I can learn more.

So you might be right about it having an E3 housing, ( there's one on ebay tonite for 25 bucks but I'll resist) I'll find out this weekend when I yank it out.

Thanks for all the input so far.
 
#14
Mustang5L5 said:
Yes, there is a plate that goes behind the flywheel that sandwiches between the bellhousing and block.

Also, there is a dust cover over the clutch fork.

I betyou have an E3 bellhousing as well. The flywheel prob hit it and may have contributed to the crack.

If you are going to pick up a used T-5 get a 1990+. They are stonger than the 85-89 WC t-5's.

The stronger t-5 actually started mid 1989, so you'll have to get the tag number off than 1989 t-5 to tell if it's the 265 ft-lb version or the newer 300- ft-lbs gearset.

Something tells me your car was swapped to a 5-spd and parts were used from an older Mustang and not really done correctly.
Click to expand...


Wait, there is a dust cover for the clutch fork? Hmmm I need to get one of those then.. That may be my rattling noise im hearing from in there every now and then :ban:
 
#17
Yes, where the clutch cable connects to the clutch fork, there is a rectangular dust cover than bolts there.

So sounds like you are missing the starter index plate and the dust cover.
 
#18
Found my parts today! E6 bellhousing, a block plate AND a dust cover.

Thanks guys for the help, I would have bought an E3 if It hadn't been for y'alls advice!

Now the hard part.....takin all apart and puttin it back together.

Is it a good idea to use new bolts for the flywheel? and can I reuse the throwout bearing or should that be replaced too?

any other words of wisdom to get her set back up correctly?
 
#19
Yes, flywheel bolts should be brand new. Never reuse flywheel or driveshaft bolts. They should be new.

You can reuse the TO bearing, but i'd replace it while you are there so you never have to go in again. If you need a clutch, now is the time as well
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

N
Vibration issue
Replies
0
Views
154
Classic Mustang Specific Tech
Nicolaj
N
FastDriver
First gear is too tall. Should I make it taller? Nitrous guys, help!
Replies
12
Views
1K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
AeroCoupe
AeroCoupe
Stevenmverrill
Betty white budget build
Replies
6
Views
1K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
2Blue2
2Blue2
T
Newbie here>
Replies
1
Views
712
Fox Engine Swaparoo
Mustang5L5
Mustang5L5
9
1995 Mustang GT Crank no Start
Replies
6
Views
1K
1994 - 1995 Specific Tech
SRago
S
Top Bottom
Back
New
Hot
Menu