Backfire Now No Start
- Thread starter 87gt347troker
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I am glad you are getting a compression tester. That will help rule out the worst case mechanical failures. Running codes will not only give you clues, but will also rule out someone frying the computer.
But until the timing is set right, it will never run worth a hoot.
Thanks for the grounds picture. Now if it included the ones in the dash and rest of the interior, that would be great.
But until the timing is set right, it will never run worth a hoot.
Thanks for the grounds picture. Now if it included the ones in the dash and rest of the interior, that would be great.
Just did a compression test and I'm totally confused. The engine has no compression in the cylinders. I checked 1,35,7. That would explain why I couldn't feel the air blow my finger off the number 1 cylinder when I was cranking the engine by hand. I got one of the valve covers off I'll post a picture.
Who wants to tell him it is time to get help tearing it apart if his compression test is accurate?
I'm ok with it either way it doesn't bother me. Just looking for tips from people that know a lot about these cars.
liljoe07
5 Year Member
May as well pull the timing cover and see if the timing chain didn't jump. Sounds like it may have smacked some valves.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Like I said in my earlier post- the motor didn't decide to backfire at 50mph and shut down for no reason and I know where this is going.
When you say you have no compresson- post the compression readings for each cylinder. Is it 0, low, on one side, all of them. Did you do the compression test with the spark plugs in or out.
Looks like it's time to tear down the top end and see what is in store for you.
When you say you have no compresson- post the compression readings for each cylinder. Is it 0, low, on one side, all of them. Did you do the compression test with the spark plugs in or out.
Looks like it's time to tear down the top end and see what is in store for you.
Stop; answer Mike's question on compression, did you make sure the tester was screwed into each cylinder snugly? Zero on every cylinder?
or variable but low on some compared to others? Post your numbers by cylinder please...
If youre unsure redo the test! If the compression is that weak, its motor not electrical!!
EDIT If you have no compression checking the computer wont help.... but what Im unclear of is,
was the distributor not locked down when you got it? something tells me your friend messed with it a little, tossed the wires back on any which way knew he was over his head and said here have fun...
Next step, let these guys help you tear down the top end in the sequence and manner they see best...
or variable but low on some compared to others? Post your numbers by cylinder please...
If youre unsure redo the test! If the compression is that weak, its motor not electrical!!
EDIT If you have no compression checking the computer wont help.... but what Im unclear of is,
was the distributor not locked down when you got it? something tells me your friend messed with it a little, tossed the wires back on any which way knew he was over his head and said here have fun...
Next step, let these guys help you tear down the top end in the sequence and manner they see best...
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Since youre new to this without being too rough here's a potential and common scenario.
Driver is out romping on his bad pony, its going great car's never run so badA..
stomp the pedal one more time and wham, bam power train batman what was that.... and now it wont start;
one common answer is the timing chain jumped a spocket tooth or two, this throws the cam degreeing/timing off by an unknown amount,
the cam now makes the valves out of sequence with the cylinder rotation, and most likely the cylinders slammed into the valves
bending them, thus no compression and the cause of the issues youre hunting... however I could be wrong
and to be fair this can just happen without cause with an old timing chain and worn sprocket gears
Driver is out romping on his bad pony, its going great car's never run so badA..
stomp the pedal one more time and wham, bam power train batman what was that.... and now it wont start;
one common answer is the timing chain jumped a spocket tooth or two, this throws the cam degreeing/timing off by an unknown amount,
the cam now makes the valves out of sequence with the cylinder rotation, and most likely the cylinders slammed into the valves
bending them, thus no compression and the cause of the issues youre hunting... however I could be wrong
and to be fair this can just happen without cause with an old timing chain and worn sprocket gears
I was trying to perform the test by myself and was unaware that the fitting used to go into the motor was allowing air to escape through it. I was told by a local ( not sure how true it is) that ford uses a special size fitting to perform the test. I also was told by someone else that the compression numbers could be low due to a few things like what compression the pistons are, trying to perform it on a cold engine, and the fact the car has been sitting for 8 years doesn't help.
As far as the guy I got the car from he's being totally honest. He had no idea I had any plans to buy his car and the other times he had problems with it he would say without any problem. He'd never try to work on it himself. He's the type of person who has the money to pay someone to fix it and won't hesitate to do so.
Also to answer your question when I got it the distributor was loose that's what made me think that there could be a possibility of a timing issue. I've pulled both valve covers and the engine looks like it was built yesterday. I watched the valves open and close while hand rotating the engine as well. I plan on returning the compression tester and just going straight to a leak down tester to be sure. I just thought I'd try pulling codes as well.
Thanks
So it went down 8 years ago? Leakdown will answer your rings, which may not be sealing due to time sitting for allot of reasons. Compression should never be zero, you need to be sure the plug fitting is in tight or youll get a false low. All signs point to the likely hood cam/timing being out of sync. Id pull the timing chain cover, first then proceed to pulling weakest test side head.... others posting to you have deep knowledge follow their lead....
I'm thinking more so timing as well. Yes it sat for 8 years the guy has other toys and it was the 3rd time he had that car rebuilt so he just said f***k it. The first time it blew it was a head gasket the second time was too much nitrous
Do you have a garage or work space? 8 years, unknown failure, track record of gasket failures.. Take your time, tear it down and see what you have. Then you can reassemble (or machine shop) and drive with confidence. Otherwise you'll always be wondering what's next... if you start now you could be back on road in no time. Do you have a budget for fixing it?
I have a garage to put it in to work on it, and to be honest with you I've really considered tearing it down to see if there are any mechanical failures. The only reason I haven't yet is because I was trying to rule out all the smaller possibilities before I had to go into it. It would suck IMO to tear it down nothing be wrong with it internally, and be back in the same boat I'm in now.
The car seems so close to starting just sounds like its a timing issue. Of course I've been thinking it could've jumped a tooth on the timing chain. I won't to get my timing light on it while it's being cranked making sure of where my timing is, and if I am for sure at the right timing and it still won't start then I'll go through with the tear down.
As far as budget I don't plan on paying anyone to do the work for me as this is a project car for me. I have friends that have lots of experience with engine repair so if it comes to that I'll get them to help.
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