Basic Intake Manifold Questions

[plastic_cow]

Alright, I've never purchased an intake before and I'm looking to add som'more HP to the 'stang and a lot of people recommended a new intake. Now, don't flame me kuz these are dumb questions, please...

btw: 1988 5.0 w/ bbk cold air intake, stock MAF (converted), stock injectors, flowmaster exhaust... assume everything else is stock

When I'm looking at an intake manifold, do I want to replace both top and bottom at the same time? A lot of the lower intakes say that they fit a carb, does that mean my EFI wont work on it (example: "Has the ability to work with stock or aftermarket carburators")? Should I look at upgrading my injectors if I replace the manifold (I'm thinking of 24#) Finally, anny suggestions on what to get? TB Spacer needed? Should I go with a bigger TB right away??? I'm thinking the Edelbrock RPM, my ultimate goal is to hit over 300 HP with the car, but not much more than that... suggestions?

Thanks for helpin' the perminant car newb.

 

[92BlackGT]

If it says it will fit stock or aftermarket carb.....then you're looking at the wrong manifolds. You need an EFI manifold.
A good one to get is the Cobra or GT-40 mani. They'll both support up to 400 hp but they'll also keep the torque you want.
You don't need to get a new throttle body right away, cause your next bottle neck are the exhaust ports on your heads.
You don't need new injectors if you only replace your intake.

 

[90mustangGT]

First of all, have you done gears yet??? If not scratch the whole idea and do them first.

Well, first of all a EFI intake lower will not fit a carb, there are carb intakes and EFI intakes. The RPM is a good intake, but with stock heads the Performer would be a better choice. The best choice for your application really would be a TMOSS ported lower or a Systemax I lower. The stock upper flows fine, it's the lower that is the bottleneck. The only thing about upgrading the intake is that you have a few restrictions before the intake that need to be fixed. A bigger intake will loose velosity and that might be too much velosity loss to get the air through the stock heads. The stock very restrictive MAF housing needs to be replaced. A C&L 73 would be a cost effective mod and you will feel it alone. A 65mm would definatly help over your stock TB, I'm going to recomend Accufab, if your getting a Performer/RPM intake go ahead with the 70mm. No you won't have to worry about injectors. On o/r H or X pipe would be a good power gain. What about underdrives, another good gain. Just throwing a intake on your car as is will cost at least $550 after gaskets and all and you won't be very satisfied, but a MAF, TB, Ported lower you will I am sure.

 

[85GTlover]

I agree with ther gear idea first....there are also several other mods for power besides the intakes.....underdrive pullies for one is a good cheap one, do some research....the intakes would help but other mods should be done first,then you will get more benefits from the intakes. Just something to consider.

 

[blkstangman88]

gears first.......but if u want cheap hp, find a eirly 95 explorer or 96-99 with the 5.0 and take the intake and heads off it and throw in a e303 cam and u got some more ponys. the explorer intake is basicly the same at the gt-40 jsut alot cheaper, i have read that they are as good if not better then the gt-40, if thats true i dont know, just a FYI

 

[jrichker]

On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 58 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock air ducting. Wiring plugs right in with no changes.

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$80. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.

 

[85GTlover]

On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 58 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock air ducting. Wiring plugs right in with no changes.

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$80. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.

Good stuff buddy.

 

[plastic_cow]

Alright cool... I was gonna put 3.55's in it at the same time as the manifold... (also an aluminum drive shaft - would that be a good idea too?)

I'm getting all giddy now, I'll go junk scavaging tomorrow, but I think I've scavanged almost all of those cars for my friends '93...

Thanks again, any more suggestions?

 

[plastic_cow]

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$80. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Already done the 3G gotta push the subs somehow

Thanks for all your help!

 

[plastic_cow]

Do I want to go with just the upper explorer intake or both upper and lower?

Thx.

 

[87'GTstang]

On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...
95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

What about the 98-99 5.0 explorers? Is that really like the GT-40 combined or is it just the upper or lower? What would the EGR spacer come from, the sn-95 part lineup? Would you still need the spacer if you retained the stock TB?

 

[plastic_cow]

As far as I've seen, the 98+ Explorer intake manifolds are a different style (but I've only seen a few of those badites.)

Correct me if I'm wrong

 

[blkstangman88]

BOTH

 

[plastic_cow]

BOTH

Thanks, now I just have to wake my buddy up... doesn't he know the 'stang's more important than sleep!

 

[tmoss]

The 95-early 97 Explorer intakes have the internal EGR passages and have the bosses for drilling and taping the ACT and EGR collant return lines, but you do have to drill and tap them. The vacuum lines also need to be changed - the Explorer has more than needed. The Explorer 65mm TB is also not a bolt on and needs modifiying of the throttle linkage and the addition of the vent line to the valve cover filler neck. The late 97 & up intakes do not have internal EGR passages and do not have the ACT or EGR bosses cast into them. If you want to/need to keep the emissions stuff, the 95-97 intake is the one to use. You'll have a hard time finding one for less than $200-250 if you get the TB and injectors with it and then you must have the bits, taps and tools to do the mods to make it work.

With stock heads, porting the lower is more cost efficient (~$130 including shipping) and will make very good power for ported E7 heads or stock GT40 style heads too. You can use the 60mm TB to save money, but definately change out the stock EGR spacer to a 65mm one and open the upper intake TB runner round hole from the stock 63mm to 65mm by removing 1mm from the circle - easy to do yourself. The stock EGR spacers I have found to measure 60mm on one end and 56mm on the other side. Paste the link in my signature for more info on power gains from porting the stock intake.