BBK shortie header install questions!

[mo_dingo]

This weekend my brother and I are going to install the BBK shorties on his 03 GT 5spd. I need any and all tips available to make the job more expedient. We already installed a Magnaflow o/r x-pipe and cat-back. So we don't need any help removing the x-pipe.

For those who have done them, if you could have had your "dream garage", what tools would have helped you if you had them? Specific length extensions, ratcheting wrenches, etc.... Specific sizes will really help, or at least the specific application so I can check the size and buy the necessary tool.

We will have air tools available. I am going to get a regular air gun, and a 1/4 drive ratchet. So those will be available, and I don't mind buying something else to go along with it that will be of use.

If any of the header bolts were a PITA, or motor mounts were very unaccessable, what would have helped?

BTW, the plan is to follow BBK's install guide. Remove x-pipe, starter, steering column, remove p-side motor mount and jacking up the passenger side of the engine.

I have a full set of 1/4 & 3/8 drive sockets & ratchets, 1/2 breaker bar, 1/2 & 3/8 swivel u-joints, 1/2"F - 3/8"M adapter, 3/8"F - 1/4"M adapter, 3/8F - 1/2M adapter, and a 10mm-22mm & 1/4" - 1" combination wrench set. My extensions are a 2" 1/4 drive, 4" 1/2 drive and 12" 1/2 drive. Will I need some inbetween extensions? Which drive & what sizes?

Thanks in advance! Subscribing!
Scott

 

[mo_dingo]

Come on guys, I know someone on here has done a shortie header install!!

TTT
Scott

 

[madmatt]

Ive heard the shortie install is a bear. My suggestion would be to grow a lot of patience and buy a lot of beer. Good luck man, hope its not too bad. Oh and we DEMAND sound clips.

 

[mo_dingo]

OMG!!! Someone actually posted in my thread!

Thanks, but that doesn't help me. I have the patience, I just don't want to have to sweat the stupid & avoidable crap that comes up, which happens 100% of the time.

I just need to know if there was anything particularly difficult to remove or reinstall, and what tools would have helped. For example, would ratcheting wrenches be helpful for the header bolts, motor mounts, etc.
Scott

 

[fr96ss]

i heard you should re use your stock manifold gaskets and leave the exhaust studs in the head

 

[El Diablo]

Put new gaskets on so, you don't have any trouble down the road later. For a header install you should of went with long tubes or nothing. You are not going to notice a hp gain at all or minimal if that. I just had mine done and labor was about $400.

 

[mo_dingo]

We have copper gaskets on order. I don't want to do this twice. I heard about using the stock gaskets, and I couldn't help but laughing. If it works, more power to you. But if it doesn't, hello exhaust leak city!!!

But I still would like any advice from someone who has actually installed shortie headers & the tips/tricks to remove the old ones and put in the new ones.

Sorry, but I don't want to derail this thread into a LT vs. shortie header debate.
Scott

 

[UVBNHAD]

I hope you have a cherry picker because you are going to have to all but pull the engine out of the car to swap the headers; that's why labor on something like that is so expensive on the newer Stangs. There is hardly any room whatsoever; swapping the factory h was bad enough...

 

[urban96]

im glad i have a 5.0

 

[NasaGT]

I hope this isn't too late, I installed my shorties and may offer up some info. Looks like your tool list is pretty complete. The mid-pipe bolts on the passenger side header are a bear. I spent more time getting those off and getting the new ones on that any other part of the install. Swivel joints and extensions are the only way to get them out.

Ratcheting wrenches make the header removal install much easier. In fact, it would be nearly impossible without.

I reused my stock gaskets, they were nice copper gaskets with only 4K miles on them at the time. I also used the stock studs and nuts. No leaks after 10 months of driving. The JBA headers I have included bolts to replace the studs with, but it seemed like such a PIA to remove all of the studs when it was possible to use the studs if you tighten the bolts down in the correct order. (one of the nuts has to be the first one tightened down or you'd never get it on later).

All in all, I didn't think it was that bad.

Good luck if you haven't started yet!!!

 

[mo_dingo]

I hope this isn't too late, I installed my shorties and may offer up some info. Looks like your tool list is pretty complete. The mid-pipe bolts on the passenger side header are a bear. I spent more time getting those off and getting the new ones on that any other part of the install. Swivel joints and extensions are the only way to get them out.

Ratcheting wrenches make the header removal install much easier. In fact, it would be nearly impossible without.

I reused my stock gaskets, they were nice copper gaskets with only 4K miles on them at the time. I also used the stock studs and nuts. No leaks after 10 months of driving. The JBA headers I have included bolts to replace the studs with, but it seemed like such a PIA to remove all of the studs when it was possible to use the studs if you tighten the bolts down in the correct order. (one of the nuts has to be the first one tightened down or you'd never get it on later).

All in all, I didn't think it was that bad.

Good luck if you haven't started yet!!!

No, I haven't started yet. I think we will actually have access to a lift this saturday, so that will make things so much easier (plus the entire arsenal of tools at the auto-hobby shop on the air force base).

So the stock header gaskets are copper? If that is the case, then I can understand why people re-use them when they install new headers. The ones that came with the BBK's were crappy, and bent to hell.

I figured they would not be intended for a second use. Everytime I heard that people reused them I just about screamed. I have had to fix 2 header leaks on my friends fox, and that was a pain. I can't even imagine what it would be like on the modular motor.

I think I will pop the hood and try to find the right size for the header nuts. I thought a ratcheting wrench would be useful, but I wasn't sure. Never know until you get in there. Thank you for pointing that out. I thought they would help in that situation.
Scott

 

[NasaGT]

I emailed you an answer, but I'd thought I post the same here for someone else to stumble upon.

But I had a few questions for you specifically. You said that one nut needed to be torqued down first, then the rest. Which nut is this? In what order did you tighten them down?

For my installation of the JBAs, there was two nuts that could only be threaded if the header was loose, meaning that if you held the header against the head as if it were fully tighten down you couldn't get the nut on the stud. This was because the header rests so close to the stud when tightend down. So I had to start those two nuts with the header loose, and slowly tighten them down, alternatin between the two nuts. The rest went on with no problems. Your BBK headers may be different and not have this problem. I hope that all makes sense.

The short version is I would advise you to start all of the nuts on the studs before you tighten any of them. That way you'll know quickly if any have to be tightened first.

Secondly, was there anything else that you had a real problem getting to? Like any wierd bolts, or whatever. Your input is really appreciated.

I recall re-installing the oil dipstick being a real pain because I tried to do it after the headers were in place. I would suggest at least starting that before tightening the drivers side header nuts. Here's a thread I created that has pics of the install and comments. Maybe it will help.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=403076

Lastly, are the stock header gaskets copper? You implied that in your post, and I wanted to verify that before I depended on the stock gaskets to use on the new headers.

Well, they are at least metal, I'm not sure about copper. If you look at the thread, about half way down there is some pics of the driver's side head and the gasket is hanging on the studs. Doesn't look copper but it is metal.

Hope that helps!!!

Sean

 

[CRZYHRSGT]

I did my FRPP shorties about a month ago. They came with new gaskets, but I also used some ultra copper gasket maker. It's a copper based RTV rated up to 1100deg. Farenheit. I know they were new headers, from Ford Racing, with new gaskets, but if you get a leak, time to do the job all over again . Other than that, you look like you're about set. Mine was done on a rack and it took about 5 hrs. (give or take a break or two). Good luck, and I'd like to buy you a when you're done. Anyone that does headers on a 4.6 definately deserves a cold one on the house!

 

[mo_dingo]

I did my FRPP shorties about a month ago. They came with new gaskets, but I also used some ultra copper gasket maker. It's a copper based RTV rated up to 1100deg. Farenheit. I know they were new headers, from Ford Racing, with new gaskets, but if you get a leak, time to do the job all over again . Other than that, you look like you're about set. Mine was done on a rack and it took about 5 hrs. (give or take a break or two). Good luck, and I'd like to buy you a when you're done. Anyone that does headers on a 4.6 definately deserves a cold one on the house!

Thanks for noting the copper gasket maker. I will definately purchase some tomorrow. Beer....... Me and some other mustang people are hopefully going up to Mt. Lemmon on Sunday to have a BBQ and hang out. So that will make up for the pain endured on the day before!

I emailed you an answer, but I'd thought I post the same here for someone else to stumble upon

I really appreciate it. If everything goes well, I think I will be the one handing out the beer!!!

I am just thankful my friend offered to get me access to the air force base so we could use their tools. I think that will make things 100x easier!

I will make a thread about the install after we get done. I did the same when I installed my gears, so I think this also deserves a Scott write-up.
Scott

 

[HIGDON]

No, I haven't started yet. I think we will actually have access to a lift this saturday, so that will make things so much easier (plus the entire arsenal of tools at the auto-hobby shop on the air force base).

Scott

Auto hobby shops rule!!

 

[WhiteDevil69]

Auto hobby shops rule!!

Update, it is my car that we did the job on. And unfortunately we didn't get access to the lift. Mo_dingo is my bro and we spent about 10 hours on our backs between 3-4 days doing these, but finally got them in with no leaks using the stock header gaskets Sound is amazing and the power gains were much more than expected, well, sotp at least. Definitly more noticable then the catback/midpipe combined

 

[Rocketman]

Mo,
take lots of pics and post them, that's my next mod. I helped do SLP LT's on a friends 02 GT, it was work. We did it on Stands. I almost think the stands are easier because one person could hold the tubes from the top while the other was positioning them from the bottom. I guess you could do that as well depending on the lift. We took the studs out and used the SLP bolts that came with them. The studs come out using a small (I think it was a 5mm) socket. You will need ratcheting wrenches for most of the job so, get some. Also the nut to attach the the EGR line to the header is very difficult to get to. We got it off OK but it was a bi@tch to get back on. I think it was like an 1-1/8 or 1-1/4 nut so you will need a big wrench for it. My friend wound up cutting a 1 inch wrench in half and grinding it out to fit to get the thing back on. Also, have fun with the top starter bolt, there are 3 by the way. Most people just leave the top one out when putting it back together.
Good luck and post some pics!

 

[GreekStang85]

hey guys i am looking into shorty headers too, which are the best and does anybody know the gains/track times difference with them on?

 

[GreekStang85]

ttt