Below Is An Email I Received From An Engine Reman Guy, I Scoff

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by 90lxwhite, Nov 7, 2013.

  1. Stubborn people like myself. At least it's not a hijack. It is very much on topic.

    Kurt
     
    84Ttop likes this.
  2. Indeed. 300rwhp is a struggle for a bolt on Fox body with GT40/GT40P heads. Now....show me the thread on this website where people are knocking out 300rwhp with E7TE heads on a bolt on Fox body....or even 300fwhp for that matter? :shrug: As tough as making 300rwhp with GT40/GT40P castings is....its even tougher with E7TE's. E7TE's will cost you the same amount of money in the end, for lesser results!

    Personally....knowing what I know now, I wouldn't pick either one. Aluminum is king. Unless you're running in a class that requires the use of factory iron heads, I can't think of a single reason you would want them for a car that wasn't on all but the strictest budget and didn't have plans on making more than 300hp with.
     
  3. Read away.

    http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/300-rwhp-with-stock-heads-and-cam.672452/

    I would ignore any references to Trophy Stock cars. They say they are stock cam, but they are anything but. It's stock absolute cam dimensions, but the ramp angles are adjusted a lot to make the engine perform. Trophy Stock engines are big money.

    I prefer aluminium also, but some people want the rock solid reliability of an iron head; some people like the original look of an iron head. I used to have a set of Windsor Jr. heads way back in the day. If I was going to use an iron head, I would track down a set of those and see if I could get a good deal long before I used a Ford casting.

    Kurt
     
  4. So, I purchased one of those GTECH computers pretty cheap and took it out - I realize it's not official, but I hear they are pretty good.

    According to that, the car ran 15.5 at 92.5 MPH - this was with wet, cold roads (melted snow) so traction on the launch was horrible.

    That will definitely come down to low 15's.. outside chance of high 14s if I get lucky when I try again in the summer.
     
    #64 BuckSatan, Dec 14, 2013
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2013
  5. Hi...just joined I just purchased and installed the hp06 300hp engine from Atk... on July 8th 2015...I love it I put the elderbrock performer intake upper& lower on it #24lb injectors 75 mms throttle body 76mass air meter calibrated for the #24 lb injectors 373 gears 155 fuel pump Bbk shortly headers Bbk H pipe cat back mufflers it has the t5 5 speed manual..deff runs way faster than the stock 302 it's an 1989 mustang Gt..Atk was Great! No over spray on engine when painted motor was build delivered on time dropped right in no problems I have 327 miles on it still breaking it in...customers service was Great also.I do believe they are very close to their 300hp that say...after my 500 mile break in period I will take it to the track and let you know the 1/4 mile time..a good intake and fuel delivery and 373 gears are the main thing for the performance of this motor..
     
  6. I am running lean. I can smell it and the plugs are a little white. I will have to upgrade my fuel delivery.

    Even with that, the car is quick with this engine even with the 273s still in. You can feel it pick up nicely at higher RPM, so I am sure it runs far nicer with the 373s you have.

    One thing to watch for.. at least it happened on mine... The oil pan and valve covers started leaking pretty quickly. Mechanic said they used cheap gaskets. So, keep an eye on that.
     
  7. what's your extension at ATK?
     
    TOOLOW91 likes this.
  8. Yeah I noticed they were cork gaskets but I change the valve cover gaskets out for the rubber ones but otherwise I'm happy with a motor I can run there real nice takes a good couple weeks to get the computer to learn a new cam but Atk said any questions or problems they said please call...and a custom Dyno tune will help out a lot..tuning air fuel mix is a must...
     
  9. And 373 gears really wake it up at about 3000rpm to 5500 pulls real hard big difference
     
  10. Should go really nice with that cam and intake (I have the same intake). I just drive a lot on the highway right now, so didn't do it. I enjoy the 20 MPG I've been getting. One day...
     
  11. A couple of weeks to learn the cam? A few heat cycles and computer is all learned and good to go ... This thread makes me giggle
     
    #71 TOOLOW91, Jul 30, 2015
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2015
    Noobz347, A5literMan and mikestang63 like this.
  12. can you explain why dyno tuning the a/f on a car with a mild reman block making maybe 300hp is a must?
     
  13. It's not "a must".. and I certainly haven't done it.. But i have read that the E303 cam will respond well to a new tune and help the idle. The cam in the ATK engine, is basically an E303.

    I have a slightly rough idle.. and I am running lean with my set up.. so I doubt it would hurt.

    I was close to plunking down on a Bama tune.. But I didn't think it would make much difference so couldn't justify and I certainly wouldn't be able to justify the cost of an actual dyno tune.
     
  14. Maybe the car just needs a good mass air meter and 24 lb injectors. Pro m is the way to go on the meter..
     
  15. I do have a pro-m, but calibrated to the stock injectors. The car sat for 10 year in my garage prior to the new engine.. and my confidence in the original injectors is not high. So, yes.. That is something I was looking at. I'm just at this point, where I am not certain I want to spend much more on the car... Certainly not this year. New engine/radiator 2 years ago.. Cleaning up the leaks and a new intake this year (had an intake leak too)... Maybe next year will be the injectors...
     

  16. It doesn't matter what the meter is "calibrated for" if you're getting or have gotten a digital tune. You can put any high impedance injector you want into that car and adjust the tune for the meter and injectors. What matters is that the sensor is consistent, is matched to the housing that it's in, and large enough to allow the air volume needed to support the motor.

    I also think you have the wrong idea about what the adaptive strategies in an EEC-IV actually do.
     
  17. I didn't realize, but that makes sense. That was one of the reasons I didn't want to upgrade the injectors.. I assumed I would need a new MAM too.. Well, I guess I still do, unless I want to get into a tune.

    Well, I know it can adjust timing and I thought had an impact on the A/F mix. I certainly could be wrong.
     

  18. Before spending any more money on parts, get with a tuner in your area and get pricing. It does seem like you're taking the long way around on a few things.
     
    TOOLOW91 likes this.
  19. I'm derailing, but the initial point to this thread was about 300 hp from a set of worked E7s and a mild cam. I believe it. E7s are no match for any aftermarket head, but can make good power. My lowest was 256/292 to the tires with unported E7s (GT40 valves, valve job and some milling), stock cam retarded 4 degrees, cobra intake, 65 mm TB, 75 MAF, long tubes, pulleys, etc. at one point it made 272/316 kn the same dunk different years.
     
  20. You didn't "derail" the thread, you rerailed it.

    That still doesn't change the fact that the last time it was even on a set of tracks was 18 months ago, before the uhhhh "endorsement" for ATK brought it back from the dead.:nonono:
     
    TOOLOW91 likes this.