JonJon
Founding Member
best way to hit 13's on the cheep?
- Thread starter masterchief2003
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
myponyrocks
I have more billet on the Stang than most women ha
- Apr 18, 2004
- 1,219
- 0
- 37
Mustang_GT_02 said:
um your stock cart is capable of 13s if its manual, DRs will get you there if youre just not holding traction
GTsleeper
New Member
JonJon said:i know... i said it IS possible.
Oh I know I was just agreeing with you. A lot of individuals sound like it's impossible to hit 13's in a GT without nitrous. Thats ridiculous!
He has an Automatic.
JonJon, He has an Automatic. You list a Tri Ax Shifter in your sig. I do not think that is an Automatic shifter is it? Automatic cars are about 1/2 second faster Stock to Stock.
Automatics can only run with a Stock 5spd with Gears and a shift kit. Automatics lack one gear too and this gives the 5spd with Closer Ratio gears an advantage as well. My 97 would be lucky to hit a 15.2 stock. I did gears, shift kit and a few other bolt ons and can now run with a stock 5spd and beat a few with minor bolt ons like mine. I ran a 14.7. I estimate with my mods I am at the flywheel 230hp. He is 30 - 40 better with his mods.
Rule of thumb tells us for every 10hp increase it is about a 1 tenth quicker. so this puts him about right 14.39. With a my mods and about 1/2 second better he would be around a 13.9. Add a stick and you are in the mid 13's.
As far as driving an Automatic, it does not take much skill to drive an Automatic at the strip. Much easier to launch. Easy to regulate tire spin. I power brake to just before they break loose release it, stand on it and let the Jmod shiftkit do it's thing.
Also some one suggested a Stall converter. Yes they are huge but a huge price tag too like 700.00, 1000.00 installed. You want it on the cheep, right.
I do agree with weight reduction. Go by what these guys say. When you raplace your battery buy the dry cell DynaBat Battery at 75.00. Saves like 25lb's off the front.
Another cheep mod - 4 cylinder Fox Body front springs.
Other Tricks - Take your Sway bar off. With the 4 cylinder in combo it will hook better. Take off your rear wing. Believe it or not they say this helps like .05, weight or Drag? Pump up your front tires to 50+lbs. for easier roll out, Rears at 26-28lbs. Don't go to low they will cup in the middle and give you less contact patch. 1/4 can of 104 Octane Booster with your tank just on the E (about 3 gallons left) or enough to get you to a Station after you race. ebay IAT Resistor chip. No Bull****. You can go to Radio Shack and get this on e-Bay. 100ohm resistor 2.00. I know this sounds stupid but it supposedly fakes the computer out in hot weather that it is 32 degrees and keeps the ECU from retarding your ignition. It gives me better throttle response in the summer only. When the weather gets cold I take it out because it drops my mpg like 2-3 mpg. Summer it does not. When I first bought I heard it was a scam but I'd anything for more power. I put it on and took it back off repeatedly and I swear it works. It is not huge but it is at least as good as the K&N Swap maybe 2 rwhp. I do not tell people about it very often locally. It is kinda embarassing. But if you are on the cheep?
GTsleeper said:
JonJon, He has an Automatic. You list a Tri Ax Shifter in your sig. I do not think that is an Automatic shifter is it? Automatic cars are about 1/2 second faster Stock to Stock.
Automatics can only run with a Stock 5spd with Gears and a shift kit. Automatics lack one gear too and this gives the 5spd with Closer Ratio gears an advantage as well. My 97 would be lucky to hit a 15.2 stock. I did gears, shift kit and a few other bolt ons and can now run with a stock 5spd and beat a few with minor bolt ons like mine. I ran a 14.7. I estimate with my mods I am at the flywheel 230hp. He is 30 - 40 better with his mods.
Rule of thumb tells us for every 10hp increase it is about a 1 tenth quicker. so this puts him about right 14.39. With a my mods and about 1/2 second better he would be around a 13.9. Add a stick and you are in the mid 13's.
As far as driving an Automatic, it does not take much skill to drive an Automatic at the strip. Much easier to launch. Easy to regulate tire spin. I power brake to just before they break loose release it, stand on it and let the Jmod shiftkit do it's thing.
Also some one suggested a Stall converter. Yes they are huge but a huge price tag too like 700.00, 1000.00 installed. You want it on the cheep, right.
I do agree with weight reduction. Go by what these guys say. When you raplace your battery buy the dry cell DynaBat Battery at 75.00. Saves like 25lb's off the front.
Another cheep mod - 4 cylinder Fox Body front springs.
Other Tricks - Take your Sway bar off. With the 4 cylinder in combo it will hook better. Take off your rear wing. Believe it or not they say this helps like .05, weight or Drag? Pump up your front tires to 50+lbs. for easier roll out, Rears at 26-28lbs. Don't go to low they will cup in the middle and give you less contact patch. 1/4 can of 104 Octane Booster with your tank just on the E (about 3 gallons left) or enough to get you to a Station after you race. ebay IAT Resistor chip. No Bull****. You can go to Radio Shack and get this on e-Bay. 100ohm resistor 2.00. I know this sounds stupid but it supposedly fakes the computer out in hot weather that it is 32 degrees and keeps the ECU from retarding your ignition. It gives me better throttle response in the summer only. When the weather gets cold I take it out because it drops my mpg like 2-3 mpg. Summer it does not. When I first bought I heard it was a scam but I'd anything for more power. I put it on and took it back off repeatedly and I swear it works. It is not huge but it is at least as good as the K&N Swap maybe 2 rwhp. I do not tell people about it very often locally. It is kinda embarassing. But if you are on the cheep?
JonJon
Founding Member
Similar threads
- Locked
