Brake Issues

[66StangFastback]

Hey guys,
As the title states, I'm having issues with my brakes. It's got 4 wheels power drums with a single bowl master cylinder. I personally don't have a problem with how they work, but my dad doesn't like it one bit.

Basically the problem is, there seems to be a bit too much travel in the brake pedal before the brakes start to grab. I've been driving the car for nearly a year now, andhave become used to it, but any time my dad drives it he complains and says I need to fix it.

Basically I'm wondering if there's a way to adjust the travel in the brake pedal, or whether or not you guys think I should try re-adjusting the brakes. I know they're self-adjusting, but from what I hear that mechanism is pretty much junk anyway.

What do you guys think? If any more info is needed to help with your diagnosis, please, ask!

Thanks guys.

 

[1320stang]

Your master cylinder may be bleeding past the seals. Have you bled the brakes? That would account for a spongy pedal, but you didn't describe that. Dad must be used to modern braking systems, takes some getting used to going back to the old days. Going to a later model drum/drum master cylinder would be a definate safety improvement.

 

[66StangFastback]

What do you mean by bleeding past the seals? We've bled it several times, but it's been probly 4 months since the last time we did. Might try it again.

Ya, the peddle really isnt spongey, and when it catches it brakes fine. It never gets hard then easy, like it would if I had air in the lines. It just effortlessly goes half or so of the way through it's travel path, then the brakes finally catch. I've got probly 3 inches of travel where it does nothing, then another 2 inches where all of my stopping power comes.

Oh he's definately used to newer braking systems. I drive the stang daily, and he drives a 97" chebby truck. I'm used to mine, and can't hardly drive his or my moms car without taking it around the block first.

What do you mean by a later model drum/drum master cylinder? Like, a 4 wheel drum dual bowl m/c? Could I pick one of those up from my local auto parts store or am I gunna have to order through a resto site, and would the improvement be worth the cost?

Thanks man!

 

[pabear89]

I agree with 1320stang about the master cyl change for saftey reasons,
I have lost the brakes with those single cyls.

As for petal travel, Check you linkage for wear and proper adjustment.
And yes those self adjusters do work, However back in the days of real car care service.
The standard oil change came with a brake adjustment on all four wheels included, as disc's were not the standard then.

The adjusters will (if working properly) keep the shoes able to make contact, but over use the cable stretches and it takes more wear on the shoes to operate the adjusting wheel.


PB

 

[RMODEL65]

to adjust the brakes find a open road and back up making sure nothing coming and ur not gonna hit anything and apply the brakes a few times it might help to tighten up the feeling. but hey when dad doesnt like no reason not to suggest a disc upgrade for the front and maybe all the way around!

 

[GoinBroke]

Some of the adjusters stick and will not auto adjust correctly. Raise each wheel and turn the adjuster dial through the access hole on the drum backing plate. Rotate the wheel while you are doing this and when you hear the first sounds of the shoe contacting the drum stop. Test drive the car and if you feel the car pulling to one side under braking tighten the other side until it is even.

 

[dennis112]

Could I pick one of those up from my local auto parts store or am I gunna have to order through a resto site, and would the improvement be worth the cost?

Thanks man!

The dual master cylinder that can be adapted to the single reservoir all drum system is readily available at most parts stores. You specify a 67' Mustang with drum brakes.

To do the conversion, you must bend some new line and add a plug to the distribution block. Not hard, but you have to have the knowledge and maybe the tools. Some Mustang parts suppliers (CJ Pony Parts) have a kit to do the conversion. I was able to source everything locally.

You would also use you current master cylinder push rod as the 67' one will probably be the wrong length.

Unless your current master cylinder is bad, you will probably feel zero difference after the conversion so you don't need to do it if your current brakes work properly. It does add the element of safety as the conversion creates 2 separate systems (1 front, 1 rear) that would offer some brakes should when one of the system fails.