Broken Crank... New Motor

[nightrider50]

The combo had a good run; 4 years later it finally gave in. Now it is time to start from the ground up. I plan to re-use Trick Flow Street H/C/I, 42# 255lph fuel setup, MSD 6AL, SCT chip, vortech s-trim. Any suggestions for bottom half of motor (block, crank, pistons)? Anyone with a similar setup, what block/crank/piston combo is working for you? Anyone pull it off and pass smog?

The fact that i will have to drive a 94 volvo instead of a 5.0 for a while sucks; but on the bright side... it will be fun to build up a new motor. Any suggestions...

 

[Rick 91GT]

If you can afford it a DART based foundation will be a great choice, it will live under all the power you plan to make now and in the future.

DART Sportsman or Iron Eagle
4340 Scat or Eagle crank 3.25" stroke
4340 Scat or Eagle rod 5.40" ARP2000 rod bolt upgrade
Good Forged Piston (I would go 4.125" bore and make it a 347, or if you go 4.030" you'll have a 331)

The block, crank and rods will not effect the emissons, however you could get a nice custom cam that would yeild you more power and pass smog.

 

[Bullitt95]

The combo had a good run; 4 years later it finally gave in.

How did the crank break? It would be very helpful if you could post some info. about the damage inside your blown engine if you tear it down. This would identify the weak points that could be avoided when anyone builds an engine for big HP.

 

[bentley429]

Ive been looking into the man o war blocks lately. Rick, any dealings with those?

 

[just4bob50]

If you can afford it a DART based foundation will be a great choice, it will live under all the power you plan to make now and in the future.

DART Sportsman or Iron Eagle
4340 Scat or Eagle crank 3.25" stroke
4340 Scat or Eagle rod 5.40" ARP2000 rod bolt upgrade
Good Forged Piston (I would go 4.125" bore and make it a 347, or if you go 4.030" you'll have a 331)

The block, crank and rods will not effect the emissons, however you could get a nice custom cam that would yeild you more power and pass smog.

This is a fine example of what Rick suggests. Is a Dart 347 ( info in sig ) I was in the same place as you over a year ago except I cracked my block.

 

[Rick 91GT]

The Man-O-War blocks have seom decent features, I've built a few... I still prefer the DART blocks in most cases however.

Bob, it's looking good!

 

[nightrider50]

Motor looks good Bob, be sure to post up some numbers when you're done.

Yea I will definitely post when I tear it down. I was actually only cruising at 70mph (about 2000-2300rpm). It was completely out of nowhere. I don't know much about the damage yet; all I know is it was one of the worst sounds I have ever heard. The bottom end was completely stock with quite a few miles on it, so it probably just finally gave in to all the pressure. There might have been a small crack or something in the crank and it just decided to give that day.

So a cam would have the biggest influence on whether it will pass smog or not? Custom cam might be the best way to go for emissions?

 

[nightrider50]

I am checking out the SCAT rotating assembly kits on summit. It is saying that a 3.40" stroke would be a 347 and a 3.25" stroke would be a 332/333. Did you recommend 3.25" stroke because of the setup I have (s-trim & trick-flow kit)? I am just trying to figure out which kit would work best with my setup.

What is the difference between H-Beam and I-Beam Rods?

Which style piston would you recommend? Flat Top, Dish, or Dome?