cable clutch

[spfd]

Im am putting a 5.0 and a 5 speed out of a 1993 Mustng GT into my 1967 Mustang and was wondering if anyone has installed a Mustang Steve's cable conversion onto there car and how they liked it ? My car org came with a C4 so there is no Z bar ext. It seems easy enough to install ! Thanks.

 

[68stang351]

I've had the Ron Morris cable conversion kit for the last 8 years, and beating the snot out of my car the whole time I haven't had one problem. Not just no failures, but also no need to even adjust or replace the cable, or any other little issues. That's my personal experience.

But to answer your question, I've never had any experience with Mustang Steve's setup, but I've also heard a LOT of good reviews on it, mostly from here on Stangnet. I don't think I've really heard of any problems with it either.

I really don't think you can go wrong either way.

Too bad that cable conversion kits on these old cars work better than even the aftermarket "good" cable stuff on fox bodies. I've tried all kinds of combos on the 90, and always have problems snapping the cables, but that's a story for another forum.

 

[2+2GT]

My car org came with a C4 so there is no Z bar ext. It seems easy enough to install ! Thanks.

All 64-73 289/302/351 engines were drilled and tapped for the Z bar. Even if you have a later model 5.0, there's a bracket to easily overcome this. Installing the stock clutch linkage in you car takes just a few hours. Other than the punchout hole for the upper clutch rod, the car already has everything you need, including the threaded bolt holes for the Z bar in the frame rail. I have done the auto to manual conversion in less than a day.

 

[spfd]

Ron Morris cable conversion kit, Im going to check it out ! Thanks

 

[65FBE2]

I used a Mustang Steve kit and hate it. He doesn't tell you when you are looking at it that you have to beat the bottom of your cowl to add enough clearance. The cable is so short that it is hard to clear your headers or manifolds. Try Modern Driveline. Bruce has first rate well engineered products. I am converting to a Modern Driveline hydraulic unit now. He has cable units also.

 

[2+2GT]

Seriously, the stock linkage works just fine with this.

 

[spfd]

I just replaced the cowl on my car so that is out of the question. The Ron Morrison looks to be easily duplicated, with no drilling. The problem I have with the stock linkage is that my car was an automatic and I already have the bellhousing and cable from the donor car. If it's worth buying a bellhousing, Z bar etc., I will. I just want it to be trouble free and reliable. Thanks, love the web site!!

 

[2+2GT]

You can use that T5 bellhousing with the stock clutch linkage, no problem. Just get the fulcrum adapter and bolt it in. And automatic cars were identical to manual cars, except for the pushrod hole, and there's a dimple marking where that goes.

 

[tx65coupe]

I have the Modern Driveline cable setup and it works great. Its been in my car for 2 years now. That said, had I known about being able to use the stock clutch linkage parts like 2+2 has mentioned, I probably would have gone that route.

 

[PoppyMod]

I'll offer this.....
I opted for the "Z" bar setup, as I didn't like they way that cable routed through the engine bay. Also, there are known conflicts with TRY-Ys, as well. Bruce (Modern) was in the development phase of his hydraulic setup when I did my conversion. I would have given it serious consideration.

 

[afreejack]

I put a modern driveline kit in my 66 'vert with an 80's 5.0 and 5 speed. The install was pretty simple and it feels way better than the old Z-bar that was in it before. The only issue I found was clearance with some types of headers (I have stock manifolds for now), so make sure you check compatability with whatever header setup you use.

 

[65FBE2]

The stock Z bars are prone to bending and also you can get some clutch chatter if all the bushings are not nice and tight. I have tried it both ways and the Z bar is the cheapest way to go and less clearance problems. For a nice modern feel and no chatter go with the hydraulic. That is if the cost doesn't stop you (around $500).

 

[2+2GT]

The stock Z bars are prone to bending and also you can get some clutch chatter if all the bushings are not nice and tight. I have tried it both ways and the Z bar is the cheapest way to go and less clearance problems. For a nice modern feel and no chatter go with the hydraulic. That is if the cost doesn't stop you (around $500).

It's all relative. I have several hundred thousand mile on my Z bar. Only time I ever bent it was when, like a fool, I thought it would be cool to have a racing clutch on my driver. Switched to a BOSS 302 clutch, no more bending.

As for hydraulics, the hydraulic clutch in my Thunderbird Super Coupe used to chatter something awful if I was careless.

Adjustment and condition of the clutch and linkage is more important than what type.

 

[PoppyMod]

Hi Guys,

This is the Z bar I'm running and I don't think it's going to be bent! If by chance it does, the, you got something else going on.

 

[spfd]

Wow! lots of pros and cons with all the set-ups, most of which I didn't even think of. thank you all for your opinions. It does say alot about the Mustang and the after-market industry that supports our hobby. I will consider the headers now in the making of this decision.

 

[spfd]

2+2GT
Official Member: Can you give me the demensions of that spacer block ?

 

[2+2GT]

2+2GT
Official Member: Can you give me the dimensions of that spacer block ?

Sorry, I don't make them, I just buy one when needed. It's square when viewed from the end, though, so that makes it fairly easy to guess.

 

[spfd]

I was lucky enough today to find some NOS clutch linkage parts at my loc parts dealer. So that made this decision alot easier! Thank you all for you input. I'm sure I will be bothering you some more with tech questions.

 

[2+2GT]

Your photo is missing some items, such as the felt washers, bushing retaining rings, the assist spring, and one of the assist spring insulators. Do you have them?

 

[spfd]

Im am missing some parts like:
Clutch fork,
Upper Clutch Rod: Bushings & Boot,
Felt Washers,
and I think thats it. I did not include parts I already have in the pic.
Thanks