you think my horn working on and off and this air bag light and my current problem can all be due to a problematic clock spring or something stupid like that...
Car Left Me Stranded... UGH! HELP!!!
- Thread starter Adam95GT
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
How about this for being far out... i went got my core back... plugged it in and my car starts right up... now i feel as i cant trust it... with the new CCRM in today i was seeing voltage at 12 and 24 but only 3 volts.... with the old one back in... everything checked out and ran fine... so it must of been a wire somewhere... im seroiously scared to drive it... and now my air bag light keeps Flashing like crazy in intervals of 5... so where was this short.... on wire 11 like i first thought???? or along 12 and 24???
Here's some airbag info. I believe you should be seeing a two digit code.
3 volts should not have been enough to power anything up. Weird.
I would wiggle test everything you can while it's running (be careful of moving parts, etc). Give harnesses and components a jarring similar to those experienced while hitting a pothole.
The clockspring idea is a decent one if the horn and airbag are freaking. Knowing the airbag code could help. INterior fuses 15, 1 and 4 are for the airbag circuit (in case you blow one).
car is dead again... if this keeps up my parents are gonna make me get rid of it... i dont have cash to take it to a mechanic...
im gonna get a reading from all wires and start over... ill let you guys know... thanks again... please keep checking back... you guys are helping me out bigtime
all hooked up fuse blows in on position, with 11 and 12 cut the fuse doesnt blow... so i started checking injectors... found one that looked nasty... and taped it up.... car starts... drives hits the bump at the end of the driveway... now as soon as the key is in on position it blows a fuse.. i think taking off the upper intake might of gotten close... the air bag light is on constantly now... how do i disconnect them maybe they are causing a short...
think a snap-on code reader would pick anything up... i might borrow one from a shop around the corner tomorrow....
ccrm
This is a bit differant, I had the same problem with another ford vehicle, that had that ccrm. The car just up and quit, dead, nothing. Well found out had a bad ground connection and it caused the ccrm to fry, so I replaced the ccrm, and the ground wire ,and still dead, nothing. Turns out it toasted a fusible link going to the ignition switch , replaced it, and car cranked right up, not a problem since.
This is a bit differant, I had the same problem with another ford vehicle, that had that ccrm. The car just up and quit, dead, nothing. Well found out had a bad ground connection and it caused the ccrm to fry, so I replaced the ccrm, and the ground wire ,and still dead, nothing. Turns out it toasted a fusible link going to the ignition switch , replaced it, and car cranked right up, not a problem since.
Where do you think the fusable link would be on a mustang??? im gonna look over the whole car again
Im not quite sure If I saw a wiring diagram Id know. I know the car I worked on though there was a yellow wire(power) came from the ecc, to the ccrm had a fusible link on it, and then one from the ccrm to the ignition, had a fusible link, that one blew when the ccrm went,all because of a ground connection.It was a red/lt grn wire on this car.
It looks like according to this wiring diagram
http://www.mustang-tech.org/wiki/images/1/1e/CCRM-Diagram-2.gif
That pin 13, is the same wire red/lt grn that has to do with the ignition switch, thats the wire I had the problem with on the other car .
Id also check pin 8 and 10 those yellow wires tie together for power .
The wiring is similar to the car I worked on,which was a Sable.
http://www.mustang-tech.org/wiki/images/1/1e/CCRM-Diagram-2.gif
That pin 13, is the same wire red/lt grn that has to do with the ignition switch, thats the wire I had the problem with on the other car .
Id also check pin 8 and 10 those yellow wires tie together for power .
The wiring is similar to the car I worked on,which was a Sable.
im about to give up... i just got out from under the car... ive killed off about 50 fuses... the parts stores are all out... i just dont want to give up... i want to dissconnect the air bags... maybe that will do something
Yea its not fun I had to trace down like I said the wire to, and unravel part of the harness to find the fusible link then take that out and replace it.I felt like a few times giving up myself. Hardest job I ever had though was replacing a complete wiring harness under the dash and hood of a f-250 because something shorted out, and it burnt the harness.
I know though the ccrm has the yellow wire that comes from the eec pin 8 and 10 that has to do with power,and then pin 13 which has to do with the ignition. The airbags shouldnt have anything to do with it .
I know though the ccrm has the yellow wire that comes from the eec pin 8 and 10 that has to do with power,and then pin 13 which has to do with the ignition. The airbags shouldnt have anything to do with it .
didnt change my intake... my upper is off and i checked everything... the only think i found that was odd i taped up... still no fix... if a wire was resting on the exhaust but the insulation is still intact the wire should still be ok right??? i found a few wires that go to the trans that were sitting on the exhaust... the plastic loom was melted but the insulation on the wires were still intact... i taped them up and still no fix... this is all i can find...
Still key on = blown eec fuse.... if i cut 24 or 12 it doesent blow... but that doesent say much... my Air bag llight is on constantly now... im not sure if this has anything to do with the problem... im taking a day off i borrowed my grand pops f150 to drive tomorrow to work.... i really need this fixxed..
Still key on = blown eec fuse.... if i cut 24 or 12 it doesent blow... but that doesent say much... my Air bag llight is on constantly now... im not sure if this has anything to do with the problem... im taking a day off i borrowed my grand pops f150 to drive tomorrow to work.... i really need this fixxed..
Did you check the ground to the ccrm, pin 15 I believe. On the Sable I worked on pin 15 was the ground also and it went into a double male connector with another ground wire, well the ground spades got a little corroded, and thats what blew the ccrm in the first place.If it keeps blowing the eec fuse then there is a short, it could be the ground.
pin 24 and 12 also go to the eec , did you check pin 8 and 10 where they tie in together, they go up to the eec fuse, and the eec itself, they are for power. Usually where they tie in, is where the fusible links will be found.Id almost bet its a ground problem ,or those yellow wires, or the red/ltgrn wire to the ignition. Also the airbag light will blink if the voltage is low, the Sable did that,I thought I had a bad sensor, turned out had a bad battery(dead cell), put in a new one, it stopped.
pin 24 and 12 also go to the eec , did you check pin 8 and 10 where they tie in together, they go up to the eec fuse, and the eec itself, they are for power. Usually where they tie in, is where the fusible links will be found.Id almost bet its a ground problem ,or those yellow wires, or the red/ltgrn wire to the ignition. Also the airbag light will blink if the voltage is low, the Sable did that,I thought I had a bad sensor, turned out had a bad battery(dead cell), put in a new one, it stopped.
Sometimes yo uhave to step back from the tree and look at the forest.
" i tore out my center consul to find a mess of chopped wires... all stereo.... and i found a whole wireing harness that had been cut... along with a few crimped wires going to the ignition switch... "
This may well be the clue. Some STUPID SO that owned the car b4 me did the same cARAP!
I have refused to touch it and it is ok right now.
"but i changed it with a walbro 190 a few weeks back... "
I don't care what LOOKS good. I'd be putting the old fuel pump back in or one I know is working. Even if this doesn't SEEM to make sense, it still might have something to do with it if you go by the rule of the last thing that was changed b4 the problem started....
" i tore out my center consul to find a mess of chopped wires... all stereo.... and i found a whole wireing harness that had been cut... along with a few crimped wires going to the ignition switch... "
This may well be the clue. Some STUPID SO that owned the car b4 me did the same cARAP!
I have refused to touch it and it is ok right now."but i changed it with a walbro 190 a few weeks back... "
I don't care what LOOKS good. I'd be putting the old fuel pump back in or one I know is working. Even if this doesn't SEEM to make sense, it still might have something to do with it if you go by the rule of the last thing that was changed b4 the problem started....
Well I got my car back from the dealership. It took 3.5 straight hours for them to figure out the problem. It turned out to be the 3 wire plug that plugged into the back of the alternator. It had become corroded and what not. Also, they said that I had a bad ground. So they replaced the plug and relocated the ground. Problem fixed. total cost -1 hour labor (I have a friend) $176.56
Adam, learn from this guy. Take it to the dealer, tell them you do NOT have a lot of $$, ask them if they think they can help, POINT them in the right direction. Let them figure it out.
paying for this would hurt my funds for my build... i know id get dicked and end up paying $900 to get it fixxed 
and it still wouldnt work right... anyone have any ideas for tomorrows adventurs???
and it still wouldnt work right... anyone have any ideas for tomorrows adventurs???
Similar threads
