Catalytic Converters help :(

[5pointohmustang]

So i have been searching around for a way to check my converters without removing them. I only have two and i removed my right one a while ago and it appeared good. Had to pay to get it wielded back on also >=(

Few questions:

1. Is it possible for only one cat to get get clogged? In my case the left one.
2. If i do the pressure test which ive seen a few videos on, are the readings universal or are they specific to each car? in my case 87fox.
3. I hate smog
4. Is the heat gun expensive and should i do that test?
5. Can the timing on the car change on its on? meaning ive never change a part where i had to adjust the timing. (not related to cats)

 

[Maryland Stang]

1: Yes it is possible for only one cat to clog up.
2: I haven't seen it done but it should be variable from car to car.
3: Because?
4: See answer #2.
5: Yes. Over time the timing can change as the timing chain gets more and more slack in it. It can also cause spark scatter which costs horsepower. The computer also changes the timing. This is why you pull the spout plug before you check the timing.

 

[jrichker]

see and

for a video on how to check catalytic converters. Watch the last 1/2 of the second video for tools and techniques that will work on a 5.0 Mustang.

 

[fiveohwblow]

I just threw mine away

 

[5pointohmustang]

thank you all i didnt buy the back pressure guage... but i did remove the 02 sensor to see if it ran differently and it didnt so now im kind of thinking my problem isn't the cat.
but i did buy a fuel pressure guage and this is what happened

So I have read different readings from a variety of forums also with different years and all kind of stipulations. So With my specific info can you tell me if my fuel pressure readings are normal?
1987 gt vert
Only bbk intake (no MAF), msd ignition coil, wires, and rotor cap.
Other than that its stock, Ive never replaced the fuel pump, injectors or regulator Im not sure if they were ever replaced. There is a new fuel filter.
So KOEO roughly 31 psi | with the vac line removed from the FPR 40 psi
KOER 35 psi | with vac line removed from the FPR 45 psi
I still have this power loss issue so if these readings are correct I guess I’ll be checking the timing this weekend and if the timing is good I will kill everybody hahahahahahahahahahahaa aaaa -____-
Could my tranny be causing a power loss issue? I don’t believe its slipping but then again I wouldn’t know what that feels like…

 

[90mustangGT]

Have you hooked a vacuum gauge to the manifold? If so what does it do? What are the readings? At idle? At 2500rpm? Is it stable or does it bounce around? If it bounces a lot, that can be an issue, sign of valve train issues. If the vaccuum decreases at 2000rpm, you have a clog.

 

[5pointohmustang]

Have you hooked a vacuum gauge to the manifold? If so what does it do? What are the readings? At idle? At 2500rpm? Is it stable or does it bounce around? If it bounces a lot, that can be an issue, sign of valve train issues. If the vaccuum decreases at 2000rpm, you have a clog.

no i still need to buy one, but when i do i hook it up the large port on the back of the upper manifold that goes to the tree?

 

[jrichker]

Vacuum is vacuum: hook the gauge up to any free port. Unless there is something terribly wrong, the vacuum should read the same on any vacuum port on a 5.0 Mustang.

 

[5pointohmustang]

Vacuum is vacuum: hook the gauge up to any free port. Unless there is something terribly wrong, the vacuum should read the same on any vacuum port on a 5.0 Mustang.

thanks, what would be the correct reading?

 

[jrichker]

thanks, what would be the correct reading?

18"-21" at 1200 RPM, stock cam, engine in good condition.

 

[5pointohmustang]

thanks, I doubt it will be correct though as i have some broke vac lines

 

[Boydster]

thanks, I doubt it will be correct though as i have some broke vac lines

I suggested a long time ago to fix those lines first. Major vac leaks will make the car run like crap.

 

[5pointohmustang]

I suggested a long time ago to fix those lines first. Major vac leaks will make the car run like crap.

yeah ive been trying to for a while im just highly confused as to where they all go even after looking at the diagrams. Im missing a alot of the lines I dont even have that 8-way plastic block ive seen in ppls pictures, and i dont see that block in any of the diagrams which is whats really throwing me off lol. so i tried to mimic the plastic block and here's where im at now... on the diagrams its says the bottom of the solenoids go to main vac and vac regulator im lost because those two goto the egr (red&green)? and also the one black line coming from the passenger fender well i don't know...

 

[Boydster]

Ummm... I'm not sure what to say.

It really is simple. Don't worry about what other guys looks like. My 87 never had an 8-way connector.

Pic 3 is a vac check valve. It holds a constant vac on the hvac controls, TAB & TAD solenoids and the vac resevoir that's mounted thru the inner fender. The end of the check valve with no hose goes to vac source.

Pics 1 and 2 are just... well, confusing. Do you have all the hard parts? TAB & TAD solenoids and valves, EGR solenoid and valve, canister purge valve & charcoal canister...

Here's what I suggest you do since you're having to completely rebuild the vac system. Run a single line from source to one of the solenoids. Then follow the diagram below and cut that first line, installing T's and additional line to reach the additional items. Cut the line, add the check valve. Cut the line, add a Y. Run a line from that Y to the next item. Maintain the integrity of the source line. You should be able to follow this diagram and install a whole new system without knowing what a single item does... although it helps.

 

[5pointohmustang]

Ummm... I'm not sure what to say.

It really is simple. Don't worry about what other guys looks like. My 87 never had an 8-way connector.

Pic 3 is a vac check valve. It holds a constant vac on the hvac controls, TAB & TAD solenoids and the vac resevoir that's mounted thru the inner fender. The end of the check valve with no hose goes to vac source.

Pics 1 and 2 are just... well, confusing. Do you have all the hard parts? TAB & TAD solenoids and valves, EGR solenoid and valve, canister purge valve & charcoal canister...

Here's what I suggest you do since you're having to completely rebuild the vac system. Run a single line from source to one of the solenoids. Then follow the diagram below and cut that first line, installing T's and additional line to reach the additional items. Cut the line, add the check valve. Cut the line, add a Y. Run a line from that Y to the next item. Maintain the integrity of the source line. You should be able to follow this diagram and install a whole new system without knowing what a single item does... although it helps.

well im glad you said your 87 didnt have the block because mines is an 87 and that make me feel better. but im still lost i guess ill just try what you said. and yes i do still have all the parts because i need to pass smog here and its weird ive seen that diagram labeled as 94-95 mustang. in the other diagrams i have its says the bottom of the TAD solenoid goes to the egr vacuum... but in the diagram you put up it only shows it going to the egr and i still dont know where those two black lines coming from the fender well go. I think ive looked at to many diagrams and pics of different years everytime i start going one route i end up changing it to comply with another diagram or pic and end up back at square 1

 

[Boydster]

Go with the one I gave you. At least that's how my 87 was done. Forget the others... this will get your vac system back in shape, then you can pull codes and see if everything works right.

One of the black lines that goes thru the fenderwell goes to the vac resevoir. I dont know of a second line, except the one that goes thru the firewall for the hvac controls.

 

[5pointohmustang]

Go with the one I gave you. At least that's how my 87 was done. Forget the others... this will get your vac system back in shape, then you can pull codes and see if everything works right.

One of the black lines that goes thru the fenderwell goes to the vac resevoir. I dont know of a second line, except the one that goes thru the firewall for the hvac controls.

ok thanks

 

[5pointohmustang]

Go with the one I gave you. At least that's how my 87 was done. Forget the others... this will get your vac system back in shape, then you can pull codes and see if everything works right.

One of the black lines that goes thru the fenderwell goes to the vac resevoir. I dont know of a second line, except the one that goes thru the firewall for the hvac controls.

So this is where I'm at now. I have the ad hooked to the top of the tad. The bv is hooked to the top of the tab. both bottom ports of the solenoids are hooked to the vac from the intake. the egr top port is hooked to the egr regulator (green) the bottom port is hooked to the 3-way (red) vac from the intake. This is where im stopped, The "H" that i mimicd in pic A the top left part of the H goes to the vacuum resivor i dont know where that is. The bottom left part of the H goes to HVAC cotrols i dont know where those are either. and back to the two black lines from the fender well in pic B one is broken and the other goes to that conector thing in pic C. YEAH I KNOW, THIS SHOULD BE SIMPLE lol. To sum it up:

1. Where is the vacuum resvoir and should there be a line hanging from it?
2. Where are the HVAC controls and where is the port located on them?
3. Where does that broken line from the fender well go?
4. I have the vaccum source hooked to the midde port on the manifold in between the fpr and large vacuum line is that correct?

thankssssssssssssss

 

[Boydster]

Your pics look better than what you put up before.

1. The vacuum resevoir is in the rh fender, between the inner steel fender and the outer steel fender. Its a round, black, ball-lookin thing. You cannot see it unless you remove the plastic inner fender liner... or the fender.

2. In pic C above... see the line that makes a 180 and goes into the firewall? Thats the line for your HVAC and it appears correct. The other line that you say "not broken from fenderwell" should be going to the resevoir. If that line has broken inside the fenderwell or pulled out / off of the resevoir, you'll have to pull the plastic inner liner to get to the resevoir.

3. The broken line is your fuel tank vent line. It runs up to the front of the engine compartment to the forward port on the charcoal canister. The rear port of the canister goes to the canister purge valve, and the other side of the purge valve goes to an intake manifold vac source.

4. Any vac source at the intake manifold that the line fits on is fine. EFI Mustangs only use full vacuum.

You're getting there...

 

[5pointohmustang]

1. So assuming the resvoir line is good behind the fender well. Do I add a “T” and connect it to the “H” in pic A and reconnect it the original piece mounted on the firewall? Because it shows it’s connected to the “H” in pic A
2.
You said the HVAC appears correct. But in the diagram in pic A it shows it needs to be connected to the “H” just like the resivoir line? Do I add a “T” there too?
3.
In the diagram the HAVAC and RESIVOIR don’t appear to be mounted to the firewall that’s why im confused…