I have a 1992 mustang gt. It is not heavily modded, only cold air intake, 3.73 gears, and exhaust has been done. I use it as a daily drive. I need a new clutch, and of course the prices range from $90 to ALOT. Am I going to run into problems by installing a cheaper clutch. Anyone got recommendations.?I'm not looking to spend alot if I don't need to, as I need to have the heater core replaced too and that job will probably be done by a shop. Thanks for any input.
Clutch Installation
- Thread starter somnium
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I suppose the biggest question is whether you're doing the clutch installation yourself? It's not an overly difficult job, though it is labor intensive and time consuming. On a mostly-stock car, you don't need something like a Centerforce Dual Friction that can handle a ton of power. My biggest concern when looking for a clutch is how stiff the pedal is. I personally like the FRPP King Cobra clutch, though I think it's gone up in price in recent years. It used to be $179, and I think it's up over $200 now. Great clutch that will handle a good bit of power though. I'm sure others will chime in with their preferences, as well.
I am probably doing the installation myself, though if I run into problems such as frozen bolts, I will likely have to take it to a shop. I say this because I went to do a simple starter replacement the other day and the bolts were completely stuck. Ended up rounding one off. When I took it to the shop, they complained about the other one being stuck as well. This car is twenty years old and for the most part of the past three years it has been sitting. Because of this I have already done a number of repairs and have quite a few more to do. I am unable to part with this car either, though the costs are adding up. I want it back in good working order. And right now, the top priority is the clutch.
gearheadboy
15 Year Member
Well I have a King Cobra and like it a lot. I'll say this, the labor part sucks. So if you want to keep upgrading the car over the years, I'd upgrade the clutch to something like a King Cobra. Its cheap and middle of the road, allows you to grow a little. If cheap is your only concern and OR you aren't keeping or upgrading the car anytime soon, Auto Zone it for cheap. As for doing it yourself, if you struggle with a starter, a clutch may not be for you. If you get in there and need a pilot bearing etc, you will need a tow truck. Or if you think a starter bolt is bad, mess with the exhaust bolts that are rusted. Understand what I'm saying? On an advice note, buy some 6 point sockets and wrenches for extra tight stuff to keep from rounding the bolts off.
ratio411
Founding Member
If you don't have high ambitions for modding the car, and just want to keep it a stock 'driver', then go cheap.
Spend 35 bux to have the flywheel surfaced though.
Change the plate, disc, throw out bearing, and crank bushing.
FMS has a roller crank bearing to replace the bushing. Last one I bought was 9 bux a couple years ago. Well worth it.
Look up the lube points online. You have to grease some spots, but must do it lightly and locally so the grease/oils don't get on the clutch/flywheel surfaces. (that will ruin the clutch prematurely)
I am partial to the Centerforce stuff myself, if you think you need something like that.
The counterweights keep the pedal light as stock, but clamps like crazy as the RPMs rise.
Spend 35 bux to have the flywheel surfaced though.
Change the plate, disc, throw out bearing, and crank bushing.
FMS has a roller crank bearing to replace the bushing. Last one I bought was 9 bux a couple years ago. Well worth it.
Look up the lube points online. You have to grease some spots, but must do it lightly and locally so the grease/oils don't get on the clutch/flywheel surfaces. (that will ruin the clutch prematurely)
I am partial to the Centerforce stuff myself, if you think you need something like that.
The counterweights keep the pedal light as stock, but clamps like crazy as the RPMs rise.
Any bolts that won't come loose and you can get a torch on them, do it. Particularly the header to h-pipe nuts, since they get very rusty. Get them hot as hell and then hit them with some penetrating oil while they're still hot. The cool oil will smoke like hell, but also draw into the threads and make it easier to get them off.
Thanks for the input guys. I think I am going to go with the King Cobra. I can get one for around 175 and most people seem to talk good about them. That being said, my next question is about the flywheel. I want to get this done in a day and really not hassle with a machine shop. There are flywheels that are sold for like 55 bucks. Though there are also places that resurface the old one for about the same price. Would I be making a mistake by buying a 55 dollar flywheel as opposed to having the old one resurfaced? Is there a quality difference? Also, is it possible to do a run-out on it? How much variance would be acceptable? As far as the exhaust is concerned, I do not think I will have to remove any rusty bolts from it because I have duals with no h or x pipes to get in the way. And also, I am not a mechanic, but I have done a few different things that seemed not too bad. I changed the gears in back. How does the difficulty with that compare to doing the clutch?
HotFox
15 Year Member
55 dollar flywheel sound cheep and I would question the quality. I would get the OEM resurfaced by a repeatable shop. Clutch is easy, make sure you check or replace throw out and pilot bearings. Alignment of clutch disc is critical for trans to slip back into place. A good jack to hold the trans up will make life easier.
Scott
Scott
gearheadboy
15 Year Member
I replaced my flywheel with a factory replacement off of Ebay. It was made by a company that makes OEM flywheels. Cost about $60 and I have no issue with it.
f8tlfiveo
My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.
also got a cheap flywheel cause the threads on my original got stripped. king cobra will be fine for you. the header bolts are the only ones that will prob cause a problem. the ones on the back of the h pipe are easily cut off if they cause problems. when you put the exhaust back on put antiseize on the bolts. i replaced mine with stainless bolts and loaded them with antiseize much easier to get them off next time... i am getting pretty good at pulling transmissions. prob had the one in my car out 5 times for various reasons. plus 15 other times in other mustangs.
The King Cobra is like the E303 of clutches. I doubt it'll ever be discontinued.
Some help to get you on your journey....
Transmission and Clutch replacement 79-95 V8 Mustangs
Before you get started, buy a Chilton or Haynes shop manual. You will need it for the bolt torques and patterns.
1.) Jack up the car front and rear, use jack stands to be safe. I use some very tall jackstands that I bought for my wife’s SUV to get enough clearance. To get the trans out when using a transmission jack, you will need 22”-25” clearance.
2.) Put a 2x4 wood block under the engine oil pan to support the engine. Jack it up slightly. This prevents damage to the motor mounts when the transmission mount is removed. The oil pan is plenty strong for this purpose. Disconnect the negative battery cable. You will need a couple of extensions and a ½” swivel socket to remove the top starter mount bolt, which is accessed from the front and under the headers. Leave the starter wiring connected unless you plan to change the starter at this time.
3.) Label all the wiring for the transmission before disconnecting it. Disconnect the O2 sensor cables at their connectors. Disconnect the speedo cable by pulling it straight out of the VSS sensor, or by removing the bolt that holds the VSS sensor in place. If you remove the VSS sensor, zip bag & tag it along with the bolt that secures in place.
4.) Remove the drive shaft, the rear bolts are 12 MM. You will need a high quality 12 point wrench for this: do not skimp or you risk rounding off the bolt heads. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to loosen the bolts. Note the yellow markings in the drive shaft and write down their alignment.
5.) Put a catch pan under the rear of the transmission to catch the fluid when you slide the yoke out of the transmission. I recommend that you drain the transmission at this time. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the lower plug to drain the fluid.
6.) Inside the car, remove the shifter boot and then remove the shifter handle
7.) Remove the H pipe & rear trans cross member. The chassis to cross member bolts are metric, you need a 15 MM & 17 MM socket or wrench. Note the direction and size of the humps on the cross member and write it down. Inspect the rear transmission mount and replace if damaged.
8.) Remove the transmission. You will need a long extension & a universal joint with a ¾” socket. A transmission jack or a helper is almost a must have unless you can bench press 75-100 pounds with ease.
Steps 9-21 are for rear main engine oil seal, clutch removal and replacement.
9.) Remove the clutch cable cover and pry the throwout bearing arm forward enough to slide the cable off.
10.Remove the bell housing using the long extension & a universal joint socket. Note how the throwout bearing rides it the throwout bearing arm, and which end faces the clutch pressure plate. Write it down or make a drawing if necessary.
11.) Remove the bolts securing the pressure plate to flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Work in a star pattern to reduce stress on the pressure plate mounting tabs.
12.) Remove the flywheel mount bolts, as you will need to either replace or re-surface the flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Tap the locator dowels out of the flywheel with a 1/4" pin punch. Zip bag them together with the flywheel bolts.
13.) Inspect the transmission input shaft where the throwout bearing rides. Replace it if worn or damaged.
14.) Inspect the throwout bearing, throwout bearing arm and ball pivot stud for wear or damage.
15.) Inspect the rear oil seal for leakage and replace if required. A pair of drywall screws carefully screwed into the metal part of the seal will enable you to pull it out. Use some acetone & swabs to clean out the place where the old seal fit. Coat the outer metal shell with silicone gasket maker prior to installing it. Use a seal driver or the old seal to drive the new seal in place.
16.) Remove & replace the pilot bearing. A puller borrowed or rented is helpful here. A wood block will be used to drive it home.
17.) Install the flywheel, noting that the bolts are an odd pattern, and it only lines up one way so that all the bolts go in easily. Torque to specs according to the shop manual. Install the locator dowels at this time.
18.) Install the clutch disk with the hub springs facing the rear of the car. Use a pilot tool available for $3-$4 from the auto parts store to line it up.
19. Install the pressure plate, be sure to use the pilot tool prior to tightening the pressure plate bolts. Torque to specs according to the shop manual. Remove the pilot tool when you are finished torquing the bolts.
20.) Install the throwout bearing on the throwout bearing arm, noting the direction of the bearing and it mounting in the arm.
21.) Install the bell housing. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
End of clutch replacement steps
22. Install the transmission, have the transmission jack or helper at hand to lift it into place. Watch out that the stub of the shifter does not tear the shifter boot. Some transmission mount bolts with the heads cut off can be used to help support the transmission as you slide it home. It may be necessary to press the clutch pedal to get the transmission to slide the last ½” or so. Remove the guide studs if you used them & torque to specs according to the shop manual.
23.) Reinstall the clutch cable by prying on the throwout bearing arm. Replacement of the stock cable or quadrant is recommended if you haven’t already done so. With adjustable cables, both nuts go on the back side of the throwout bearing arm.
24.) Reinstall the rear crossmember & transmission mount. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
25.) Reinstall the wiring and speedo cable or VSS sensor if you removed it.
26.) Reinstall the drive shaft, slide the yoke in place. Align the rear yellow markings and install the bolts. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to tighten the bolts.
27.) Remove the jack from under the engine oil pan.
28.) Refill the transmission with the proper fluid. T5’s use Dextron ATF, Tremec 3550’s use GM Synchromesh. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the top plug as the filler port.
29.) Adjust the clutch cable according the manufacturer’s instructions if you have an adjustable cable & quadrant. Set the emergency brake and use the drag it provides in order to determine where the clutch starts to engage. You should have 1 -1 ½” free play from the top. The cable will not have any slack and will have some preload on it when properly adjusted.
30.) Re-install the H pipe and remaining items.
31.) When you have visually checked all the bolts, fittings and other parts are present and not interfering with each other, then take the car down off the jack stands.
32.) Be prepared to put the car back up on the jack stands to adjust the clutch and tighten up any loose items found after the test drive…
If you have a T5, you may be able to remove the trans & re-install it if you can bench press the 75 lbs that it weighs. If 75 lbs is too heavy, don't hurt yourself, get a trans jack. If your car has a Tremec 3550 or TKO, you will need a helper or trans jack because it weighs 100 + lbs. I built a trans jack from 2x2 angle iron, some swivel casters, 2x4's, 2x6's and a cheap floor jack. PM me if you are interested & I will send you the photos (8 MB) with the write up.
While you are at it, replace the stock cable & quadrant if it is still present. My choice for clutch & quadrant for street use:
Ford Racing M-7560-A302N - Ford Racing Clutch Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Ford Racing M-7560-A302N king cobra clutch kit $215-$259
Ford Racing M-6375-B302 - Ford Racing Flywheels - Overview - SummitRacing.com flywheel, cast iron $92
New items – the King Cobra clutch kit may not be in stock, so here’s the replacement:
url]http://www.summitracing.com/parts/F...ilter=1&query=Part+Type|Throwout+BearingsFord[/url] Racing clutch kit #FMS-M-7560-E302, $25, no throwout bearing included with the kit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-7548-A/ Ford Racing throwout bearing FMS-M-7548-A $52.
The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just a good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.
Using a stock OEM cable and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.
See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.
Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Cable and quadrant assembly $90
Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Ove
Transmission and Clutch replacement 79-95 V8 Mustangs
Before you get started, buy a Chilton or Haynes shop manual. You will need it for the bolt torques and patterns.
1.) Jack up the car front and rear, use jack stands to be safe. I use some very tall jackstands that I bought for my wife’s SUV to get enough clearance. To get the trans out when using a transmission jack, you will need 22”-25” clearance.
2.) Put a 2x4 wood block under the engine oil pan to support the engine. Jack it up slightly. This prevents damage to the motor mounts when the transmission mount is removed. The oil pan is plenty strong for this purpose. Disconnect the negative battery cable. You will need a couple of extensions and a ½” swivel socket to remove the top starter mount bolt, which is accessed from the front and under the headers. Leave the starter wiring connected unless you plan to change the starter at this time.
3.) Label all the wiring for the transmission before disconnecting it. Disconnect the O2 sensor cables at their connectors. Disconnect the speedo cable by pulling it straight out of the VSS sensor, or by removing the bolt that holds the VSS sensor in place. If you remove the VSS sensor, zip bag & tag it along with the bolt that secures in place.
4.) Remove the drive shaft, the rear bolts are 12 MM. You will need a high quality 12 point wrench for this: do not skimp or you risk rounding off the bolt heads. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to loosen the bolts. Note the yellow markings in the drive shaft and write down their alignment.
5.) Put a catch pan under the rear of the transmission to catch the fluid when you slide the yoke out of the transmission. I recommend that you drain the transmission at this time. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the lower plug to drain the fluid.
6.) Inside the car, remove the shifter boot and then remove the shifter handle
7.) Remove the H pipe & rear trans cross member. The chassis to cross member bolts are metric, you need a 15 MM & 17 MM socket or wrench. Note the direction and size of the humps on the cross member and write it down. Inspect the rear transmission mount and replace if damaged.
8.) Remove the transmission. You will need a long extension & a universal joint with a ¾” socket. A transmission jack or a helper is almost a must have unless you can bench press 75-100 pounds with ease.
Steps 9-21 are for rear main engine oil seal, clutch removal and replacement.
9.) Remove the clutch cable cover and pry the throwout bearing arm forward enough to slide the cable off.
10.Remove the bell housing using the long extension & a universal joint socket. Note how the throwout bearing rides it the throwout bearing arm, and which end faces the clutch pressure plate. Write it down or make a drawing if necessary.
11.) Remove the bolts securing the pressure plate to flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Work in a star pattern to reduce stress on the pressure plate mounting tabs.
12.) Remove the flywheel mount bolts, as you will need to either replace or re-surface the flywheel. Be sure to label & zip bag them separately from the rest of the parts. Tap the locator dowels out of the flywheel with a 1/4" pin punch. Zip bag them together with the flywheel bolts.
13.) Inspect the transmission input shaft where the throwout bearing rides. Replace it if worn or damaged.
14.) Inspect the throwout bearing, throwout bearing arm and ball pivot stud for wear or damage.
15.) Inspect the rear oil seal for leakage and replace if required. A pair of drywall screws carefully screwed into the metal part of the seal will enable you to pull it out. Use some acetone & swabs to clean out the place where the old seal fit. Coat the outer metal shell with silicone gasket maker prior to installing it. Use a seal driver or the old seal to drive the new seal in place.
16.) Remove & replace the pilot bearing. A puller borrowed or rented is helpful here. A wood block will be used to drive it home.
17.) Install the flywheel, noting that the bolts are an odd pattern, and it only lines up one way so that all the bolts go in easily. Torque to specs according to the shop manual. Install the locator dowels at this time.
18.) Install the clutch disk with the hub springs facing the rear of the car. Use a pilot tool available for $3-$4 from the auto parts store to line it up.
19. Install the pressure plate, be sure to use the pilot tool prior to tightening the pressure plate bolts. Torque to specs according to the shop manual. Remove the pilot tool when you are finished torquing the bolts.
20.) Install the throwout bearing on the throwout bearing arm, noting the direction of the bearing and it mounting in the arm.
21.) Install the bell housing. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
End of clutch replacement steps
22. Install the transmission, have the transmission jack or helper at hand to lift it into place. Watch out that the stub of the shifter does not tear the shifter boot. Some transmission mount bolts with the heads cut off can be used to help support the transmission as you slide it home. It may be necessary to press the clutch pedal to get the transmission to slide the last ½” or so. Remove the guide studs if you used them & torque to specs according to the shop manual.
23.) Reinstall the clutch cable by prying on the throwout bearing arm. Replacement of the stock cable or quadrant is recommended if you haven’t already done so. With adjustable cables, both nuts go on the back side of the throwout bearing arm.
24.) Reinstall the rear crossmember & transmission mount. Torque to specs according to the shop manual.
25.) Reinstall the wiring and speedo cable or VSS sensor if you removed it.
26.) Reinstall the drive shaft, slide the yoke in place. Align the rear yellow markings and install the bolts. A helper to step on the brake to keep the drive shaft from turning will be helpful. Use your foot to apply pressure to the wrench to tighten the bolts.
27.) Remove the jack from under the engine oil pan.
28.) Refill the transmission with the proper fluid. T5’s use Dextron ATF, Tremec 3550’s use GM Synchromesh. There is a pair of pipe plug filler ports on the side of the transmission. Use the top plug as the filler port.
29.) Adjust the clutch cable according the manufacturer’s instructions if you have an adjustable cable & quadrant. Set the emergency brake and use the drag it provides in order to determine where the clutch starts to engage. You should have 1 -1 ½” free play from the top. The cable will not have any slack and will have some preload on it when properly adjusted.
30.) Re-install the H pipe and remaining items.
31.) When you have visually checked all the bolts, fittings and other parts are present and not interfering with each other, then take the car down off the jack stands.
32.) Be prepared to put the car back up on the jack stands to adjust the clutch and tighten up any loose items found after the test drive…
If you have a T5, you may be able to remove the trans & re-install it if you can bench press the 75 lbs that it weighs. If 75 lbs is too heavy, don't hurt yourself, get a trans jack. If your car has a Tremec 3550 or TKO, you will need a helper or trans jack because it weighs 100 + lbs. I built a trans jack from 2x2 angle iron, some swivel casters, 2x4's, 2x6's and a cheap floor jack. PM me if you are interested & I will send you the photos (8 MB) with the write up.
While you are at it, replace the stock cable & quadrant if it is still present. My choice for clutch & quadrant for street use:
Ford Racing M-7560-A302N - Ford Racing Clutch Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Ford Racing M-7560-A302N king cobra clutch kit $215-$259
Ford Racing M-6375-B302 - Ford Racing Flywheels - Overview - SummitRacing.com flywheel, cast iron $92
New items – the King Cobra clutch kit may not be in stock, so here’s the replacement:
url]http://www.summitracing.com/parts/F...ilter=1&query=Part+Type|Throwout+BearingsFord[/url] Racing clutch kit #FMS-M-7560-E302, $25, no throwout bearing included with the kit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-7548-A/ Ford Racing throwout bearing FMS-M-7548-A $52.
The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just a good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.
Using a stock OEM cable and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.
See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.
Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Cable and quadrant assembly $90
Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Ove
