Computer guru's...please help!

[mjh304]

I've posted a million times about this problem, but noone has figured it out yet. I'm burning oil. Whatever you are thinking....nope, that's not it! If there's a way to check out my previous posts, you can do that to see what I've gone through with the actual engine. The engine is put together fine, and everything is new. That said, I have to lean toward the electronic control system. I was actually talking to a ford R+D guy and he mentioned that due to a problem with my computer system, I'm running way rich (mostly at idle), which is flooding the cyliders/washing them out, and allowing oil to get past the rings. If I let my car sit at idle, it will have a cloud of smoke behind it. I'm going through a quart of oil every 200 miles! Yea! And like I said, it's not the engine..me and a bunch of other people thought of everything....valve guides, etc., pcv system, gaskets...you name it, we checked it 100 times! Please, does anyone have any knowledge about these computer systems? The R+D guy said that he thinks my mass air meter and fuel injectors are not corresponding with each other. He calls it a wrong "transfer function." The reason he thinks this is because my fuel pressure needs to be at 32psi in order to get a proper mixture on the dyno (it was dyno tuned). My fuel injectors are Ford Racing 30lb (part number FR649) and my mass air is a Big Bore 70mm (part number FR886). And I have a computer from an '89 mustang for a 5 speed (A9L). ANY thoughts are much appreciated!!! If someone can solve this for me, trust me, I'll make it worth their while!!!!!! Thanks so much!

 

[kevin2m4]

you try unplugging the sensors and letting the computer run in limp mode?

 

[ashford]

ive got one thing you can try that ive seen only 2 times before.
pull out your pcv and plug the hole(or crimp the hoseso no vacuumgoe through it) take off the hose that goes between your oil fill and your tb and put your finger over the hole on the fill, an older engine with a few miles on it should build a small pressure, a little vacuum that builds very slowly is normal too, but if you build a vacuum quicky you have one of 2 problems.
1 intake gasket leaks and wil show oil burning on a certain plug or plugs
2 rings didn't seat or like your mech said washed rings
try this at different throttle positions and revving the engine.

 

[mjh304]

kevin2m4---what sensors are you refering to? I ditched a lot of my emisions sensors already.

ashford---The pcv is all plugged up in the back of the lower intake, and I have had both valve cover holes vented to the atmosphere, as well as both plugged up, just to try different things.....no change at all. Also, we have changed the intake gasket that mates to the heads many times....we even put a TON of permatex on those gaskets to make sure it is sealing correctly (since I have had the block decked slightly, ya know). Plus, I am having the oil burning in ALL cylinders pretty equally. Some slightly more than others, but for the most part, they are even. Are there any other vacuum tests I can do elsewhere since I don't have those lines hooked up any more? And what are your thoughts on the injectors matching up with the mass air sensor?

***Thanks so much for your ideas....this thing has been pissing me off for years now.....that's right....years!***

 

[Pop-Pops-Pony]

How about a swap back to a stock Mass Air and 19# injectors to see what happens ?? Or any setup-combo known to work good...Swap just the puter into a known good running car and see what happens...

Hard to do if you don't have access to spare parts/ friends cars...

Not a permanent fix but shouldn't hurt at idle to check the mass air and injectors/cyl. washing idea...

30# injectors seem kind of high for your setup but shouldn't wash the cyl.

Thats a ton of oil in there so I hate to say it but I'd be thinking mechanical regardless...I mean the oil has to get into the cyl. somehow before you can burn it...I may be wrong but the idea of gas washing the oil off the cyl. walls or somehow unseating the rings seems wrong, the oil control ring should wipe down the cyl. before it fires, wouldn't the oil get burned if it's in there anyway??

I'd wonder about the block being decked and the seal issue if you need a "ton" of Permatex..

Whats the compression readings ???

Blue smoke would be oil, black smoke if it's way to rich...

Is the oil in the heads draining back fast enough or building up in the valve cover area?? Any restrictors in the oil drainbacks...High volume pump??

Are you sure all the sensors needed for the puter are there and working since you did the Mass air swap??? Any codes???

Just throwing out some more ideas...Try one thing at a time and think it through.....

 

[ashford]

what i meant is to seal off the crank case and see if it creates a vacuum quickly, my engine burnt quite a bit of oil when i pulled out the pcv and plugged it with my finger along with the oil fill it pulled a vacuum quickly. i had a bad intake gasket. another friend of mine had a similar problem but that was the rings not seating after about 5000 miles it slowed down then eventually stopped burning oil, it took a while about 10000miles but not quite as bad as your describing. it may be possible you got rings one size too small but that would be a long shot.

one story i heard from my dad years back is that one of his brothers bought a car and ran through alot of oil, so he took it back for warranty. turns out that one cylinder didn't have rings on it.

 

[mjh304]

well, i'm going home this weekend to put the motor back together, and I'm gonna run it for a little bit, and I'll put money on it smoking again. So I'll start to check out all the stuff mentioned above once she's up and running. I am still very interested in speaking with someone about the computer. I don't have a friend or another car to try the computer in, and I don't have the original injectors to try. I would love to have another computer to try! Damn. I'll keep you posted, and please add in about the computer if you have any ideas.

 

[Michael Yount]

If you're smoking that much and going through oil at that rate you've got bigger problems than just mixture. Valve seals, guides, rings -- something's not sealing like it should. Don't know why it's doing it, but I'd bet against your solving it with mixture adjustments. Who put the bottom end together? Are the heads new?

 

[mjh304]

That's exactly what I've been thinking all this time. The whole engine is all new parts, even totally profesionally put together by Andy Jensen in NE Pennsylvania. The heads are brand new from World, and they were even sent back to World a few months ago for extensive testing, which came back 100% OK. The bottom end was put together twice by myself and once by Andy, and no change in the amount of oil burned. I even changed the valve seals a few times, but they were fine to start with and there was no change. I've done all sorts of things with the PCV system (vented it, plugged it, connected it here, connected it there). I really don't know what else to do here besides look at the computer/fuel/spark system. Any other thoughts?

 

[Michael Yount]

Have you run cranking compression and cylinder leak down tests?

 

[mjh304]

No I havn't, but plan on it once I get the motor back together. I think I can rent the equipment for these tasks from Auto Zone, can't I?

 

[tvmango]

Have you run cranking compression and cylinder leak down tests?

exacly what needs to be done, then if everything is good you know it's not mecanical....

 

[mjh304]

very true, I'll do that ASAP

Another thing I forgot to mention is that every time we get the motor back together and start it for the first time, the right side (passenger side) of the motor gets a lot hotter than the left...to the point that sometimes the header gets red hot. We of course shut it down right away and wait for it to cool, then try adding water to try to get rid of any air bubbles we may have in there. Eventually, after starting and stopping a few times, it seems to be ok and doesn't get red hot any more, but the right side always seems to be a little hotter when you put your hand near the right exhaust tip compared to the left. Weird!?!?

Also, speaking of swapping in 19 lb injectors just to give them a try, we swapped the entire FI setup for a Edelbrock manifold/Holley carb setup and it still burned oil. HOWEVER, we still connected the distributor wiring, and every other wiring we could with the carb on, which might have been a mistake, but that's what we did, and it still burned.

One more question is when I get the motor back together, can I take the car to a special Ford dealership and have them hook it up to any kind of computer reader to get all the information I need??? If so, what is that called so I can find a place near by?

 

[Michael Yount]

You don't need a special dealership to run leak down and compression tests - just a competent mechanic who knows his/her way around Ford's roller motors. Start there - this much oil isn't a computer problem. There's something mechanically amiss.

 

[mjh304]

It's fixed! It's fixed! I can't believe it! Years of oil burning and I figured it out! It turns out that the World Windsor Jr. heads DO NOT like teflon valve stem seals. I put in normal RUBBER ones, and dried it right up!!!!!!!! How about that!! Thanks everyone who has helped with thaughts and ideas! Damn heads!!!