Convert to Roller Block
- Thread starter psychorugby
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BlackVert
15 Year Member
link bar lifters. either that or the spider hold down
link bars are more recommended because they support a higher cam lobe lift
link bars are more recommended because they support a higher cam lobe lift
Drain the oil and then run it for awhile, then it will no longer work
To the OP, I also recommend a linked bar lifter, it will be cheaper in the end then milling the block for the dogbones and spyder, you can run a standard base circle cam as well.
BlackVert
15 Year Member
Great idea Rick LMAO!
Psycho, someone has committed to buying it, and he has started paying for it, so hopefully it will be sold by the summer.
Mine isn't a roller either. I went with the spider conversion because back then, the cost for the link bar lifters was over $500, and my cam doesn't have a very high lift. Now the link bars are much less expensive.
Psycho, someone has committed to buying it, and he has started paying for it, so hopefully it will be sold by the summer.
Mine isn't a roller either. I went with the spider conversion because back then, the cost for the link bar lifters was over $500, and my cam doesn't have a very high lift. Now the link bars are much less expensive.
You can make money on blowing up an engine. You're supposed to see how long it will run on 4 quarts of Milwaukee's Best or Pabst Blue Ribbon in the oil pan, and take bets. I had a coworker who made $300 towards a new engine by running a Dodge straight 6 for 20 minutes at full throttle on Milwaukee's Best.
Kurt
Kurt
LOL..it actually lasted 20 mins. Guiness would have given it a few more minutes
I just love the zMAX commerical where they pour sand in the valve cover
So he claims, but I have every reason to believe him because I have seen similiar results from other beer lubricating experiments. Yeah, that zMax is total crap. Yes, sand is going to wear the engine, but it doesn't mean it's instantly going to stop running. The beer physically washes out all the oil residue so that it's literally metal on metal.
Kurt
txstang84
15 Year Member
Ouch! I thought they were only like $350...still not chump change, but somehow a more palatable number...
BlackVert
15 Year Member
txstang, that was a few years back when they had just come out. these days, they are more in the $350 range.
Not sure I want to pour beer in the motor LOL... it does sound fun though! I want to keep it to either (a) keep aside for the time when I want the car to be stock or (b) give to my dad to put in his 65 Mustang. It is probably going to go in the 65 if I had to guess.
The block I was looking at, and have yet to hear back on, needed millwork anyway so I figured I would get it milled for the spider holddown. What are link bar lifters? I looked for a little bit (albeit not in depth) and could not really find anything to convert non-roller to roller in a "kit" form. I'll be in and out of airports today, so maybe I'll have time to look some more.
The block I was looking at, and have yet to hear back on, needed millwork anyway so I figured I would get it milled for the spider holddown. What are link bar lifters? I looked for a little bit (albeit not in depth) and could not really find anything to convert non-roller to roller in a "kit" form. I'll be in and out of airports today, so maybe I'll have time to look some more.
BlackVert
15 Year Member
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Lifters/Lifter-Link-Bars-Included/Yes/
There is a bar between each pair linking them together, which keeps them from twisting. here is what they look like:
The Comp ones are still over $500, but other folks make them for less. I cannot vouch for the quality though.
There is a bar between each pair linking them together, which keeps them from twisting. here is what they look like:
The Comp ones are still over $500, but other folks make them for less. I cannot vouch for the quality though.
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The one key feature to look at is the actual roller diameter...the cheap Howards have a small roller that will not take a lot of spring pressure.
I have used the Trick Flow lifters made by Gaterman Products PT# 21400006 they run $430.00 (most street and race set-ups), COMP Pro Magnum PT# 8931-16 run $530.00 ( higher rpm and spring pressure set-ups, they will not pump up with the interval valving), Lunati PT# 72335 $379.00 (will work with most mild street set-ups), Crane just released theres again PT# 36532-16 but they are now $630, (they also will not pump up with the interval valving), and finally Crower (race set-ups or heavy spring pressures, they have a lot of options available, larger diameter rollers, forced pin oilers, etc... IMO IF YOU WANT THE BEST $650+)
I find the oil hole to be in the correct location as well, that will allow it to intersect with the oil passage properly without grooving the lifter.
Damn , I keep giving away all my secrets
I have used the Trick Flow lifters made by Gaterman Products PT# 21400006 they run $430.00 (most street and race set-ups), COMP Pro Magnum PT# 8931-16 run $530.00 ( higher rpm and spring pressure set-ups, they will not pump up with the interval valving), Lunati PT# 72335 $379.00 (will work with most mild street set-ups), Crane just released theres again PT# 36532-16 but they are now $630, (they also will not pump up with the interval valving), and finally Crower (race set-ups or heavy spring pressures, they have a lot of options available, larger diameter rollers, forced pin oilers, etc... IMO IF YOU WANT THE BEST $650+)
I find the oil hole to be in the correct location as well, that will allow it to intersect with the oil passage properly without grooving the lifter.
Damn , I keep giving away all my secrets
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