Convertible top not quite making it...
- Thread starter Dave2000GT
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Try placing the car out in the sun with the top up, but unlatched. After it sits out in the sun for a while try and latch the top. If it latches easily, more than likely the top is old and has shrunk. If the top is newer you might check the threaded pins where the top folds back on the frame. Another other area is that the cables might be too tight if the top was installed wrong.
As far as the pump, it will bleed the air out itself.
As far as the pump, it will bleed the air out itself.
7-UP BILL
Founding Member
When checking the fluid, you must make sure the hydraulic pistons are fully closed. This pushes all the fluid back into the reservior. If it's low at this point, then add.
Seems to me that top shrinkage is the most likely cause. It is alot easier when it's been out in the sun.
Is there any sort of treatment that can loosen the vinyl back to it's original flexible state ?
snowman23
Member
It depends on the year. Even years it's top up and odd years it's top down except for '91 models manufacturered prior to August they are top up.
Good luck.
what type of fluid to put in the pump? and where is the pump on an 89 gt vert?
I am at work, will look at it in the morning.
thanks.
I am at work, will look at it in the morning.
thanks.
i have the same problem with my 91 vert lx,the car has 97,000 miles on it pretty dam clean,but when you close the top it usually is an act of congress and takes 2 people to latch.Always have to latch the driverside first then other side is cake.i am missing a bolt that goes in the frame to the topp,but it doesnt seem to be binding so??? any ideas where to get topp bolts? Where is the pump and how easy is it to check/maintain the top motor?Should i take it to a hydrolic shop to check or is that a waste of cash? any help works,you vetrens know how we do!
I found the pump. Its underneath the well liner. I have not had a chance to see how to check the fluid.
BTW, the freaking trunk is tiny.
BTW, the freaking trunk is tiny.
remat457
Founding Member
Another way to check if it the motor is to pull the pins that connect the top to the lift cylinders. It will allow the top to move independent of the top motor.
It is probably cover shrinkage. My 89 has the same problem, I ended just buying some generic weatherstripping from the auto parts store and attaching it to the front of the top so that it makes a better seal.
regards
It is probably cover shrinkage. My 89 has the same problem, I ended just buying some generic weatherstripping from the auto parts store and attaching it to the front of the top so that it makes a better seal.
regards
twistedwankel
Member
There should be a notice on the pump what type of fluid to use. Mine 84 uses type FA red transmission/hydraulic fluid which replaces the original Type F that mine calls for.
The rubber plug in the right end needs to be removed. It is tight and I used a pair of needlenose pliers to pry it out. About an inch long.
To fill the tank put a cloth or paper tower under the pump first. I was surprised how much mine required as I was using an antifreeze tester with the balls removed to fill it - took forever. A clear honey or mustard squirter like in the grocery would work much better and quicker. Fill it until it runs back out. Run pump and fill again. That's that.
You don't need the pump to seat the top if it fits right. Shrinkage or improperly installed most likely. There is some adjustment so you might talk to a top shop to ask about the cables.
I put the top up on flat ground a few days ago, it went down nice and easy. my driveway has a bit of an incline on it. I think that was hindering the top from fully going down.
I will put some fluid in it anyways, as long as it needs it.
thanks for the help.
I will put some fluid in it anyways, as long as it needs it.
thanks for the help.
snowman23
Member
It sounds to me like you are low on fluid---but
DO NOT mix fluid types.
I am not sure on the exact science of all this, but you can use ATF. HOWEVER, you cannot mix it with the hydraulic fluid that is in there. They somehow react with each other or something and gum up the lines / pump.
I had a motor that would stop every now and then and not move at all. I had it rebuilt and when I reinstalled it, the shop told me to add some ATF to top off the fluid level once it was connected. It worked for like 3 days then stopped again. I brought it back to the shop, they bench tested it and said it was fine. I ended up replacing the motor and the lines (one of the biggest PITA to install without removing the cylinders). I filled all the new stuff with ATF and had no problems.
The point is, I am not sure if adding ATF ruined the first motor. I would make sure that you're adding the same fluid that is in there or drain the pump reservoir and the lines and then refill the whole thing with new fluid. If you do that, you will need to bleed the lines of air before reinstalling the whole thing. All in all it took me a good part of a whole day to get this straightened out.
Good luck.
DO NOT mix fluid types.
I am not sure on the exact science of all this, but you can use ATF. HOWEVER, you cannot mix it with the hydraulic fluid that is in there. They somehow react with each other or something and gum up the lines / pump.
I had a motor that would stop every now and then and not move at all. I had it rebuilt and when I reinstalled it, the shop told me to add some ATF to top off the fluid level once it was connected. It worked for like 3 days then stopped again. I brought it back to the shop, they bench tested it and said it was fine. I ended up replacing the motor and the lines (one of the biggest PITA to install without removing the cylinders). I filled all the new stuff with ATF and had no problems.
The point is, I am not sure if adding ATF ruined the first motor. I would make sure that you're adding the same fluid that is in there or drain the pump reservoir and the lines and then refill the whole thing with new fluid. If you do that, you will need to bleed the lines of air before reinstalling the whole thing. All in all it took me a good part of a whole day to get this straightened out.
Good luck.
Sorry to ressurect a semi-ancient post, but how does one go about bleeding the air in the lines when doing this? Is the above statement (several posts prior) that the system self-bleeds incorrect? Given, it makes sense to bleed the system if possible, since hydraulic systems never work well with air in 'em, but as for bleeding it out ... uhhh ... how?
I'm probably going to be replacing the broken lines on my 'vert pump this weekend, and I'll be doing a full drain/refill of the system with ATF. (Also going to waste a buttload of towels and cleaner in sopping up the mess left by the oil fluid having spewed allllllllll over the under-top and under the seat area. I'm hoping I can get by the cheap-o route by using transmission cooler or fuel injection hose for the time being, otherwise I'm going to have to blow $35 or so on a new hose kit from 50resto and do this whole bleed/refill thing all over again...
ATF fluid in the motor. I sell a lot of lift assy/ for those too...hopefully it isn't those going out.
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