Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

[AeroCoupe]

You can change the title of the thread to reflect where you are in the process. This is better than randomly starting another thread or posting in another thread with the same issues as now all the things that you have done to get to this point are lost. Best thing to do is simply post here exactly what you did in the other thread and change the title. Then we know where you are at and can review what all has gotten you to this point in the trouble shooting.

With that said, when the motor is cranked is is fouling the cylinders with fuel? Also, where you checking the fuel pressure at because in the video I can see the schrader valve on the injector rail but nothing attached. You may be simply taking it on and off but just curious.

 

[Noobz347]

I have a good one for you. After going through this list, this is my result:

—Has nice bright spark that you can see in direct sunlight.
—Can hear the fuel pump priming for 2-4 seconds.
—When distributor is twisted in its hole, you can hear the fuel pump run again. (PIP is ok)
—Will not run with ether/starting fluid.
—Fuel pressure is 38psi.
—Noid light indicates injectors are getting their signal.
—Standalone harness. No s&p shakers.
—TPS set at .97v
—Firing order is correct.
—Distributor is stabbed correctly.
—Swapped computer with a known good one.
—Compression is as follows:
1–115psi
2–117psi
3–117psi
4–122psi
5–119psi
6–127psi
7–120psi
8–108psi

This is a fresh rebuild and has zero miles. Stock cam, AFR “Enforcer” heads, Cobra intake, 19# injectors and stock MAF. Using an A9L computer. It has a Walbro 255lph fuel pump that was fueling the turbo 2.3 six weeks ago.

I'm sorry for repeating myself here, all you who were helping me on my BAP thread.

What do I check next?

Yeah, the checklist itself is not the place to put this.

I've moved it over to [your] thread.

 

[reddy351]

Oh. Ok. Sorry. I saw that others have posted there. Seems that interest is lost in the original thread. No one responding in a few days.

I checked the FP on that Shrader valve. I just don’t like leaving fuel test equipment connected any longer than necessary.

 

[AeroCoupe]

If you change the thread title that tends to get more traffic as things have changed. I will also say that it sounds off on the timing but that is just me.

 

[reddy351]

#1 cylinder TDC on the compression stroke. The rotor lines up with #1 contact on cap.

I’m going to change the TFI tomorrow. And double check the grounds. (Again.).

 

[AeroCoupe]

Mine literally points at the left upper intake bolt. I seem to remember that I did that so when adjusting the timing the TFI did not hit the lower intake. In the video the way it sounds like it is almost firing is like the timing is too far retarded.

 

[reddy351]

So you think it's a tooth off then? I watched a couple of videos (since it's been a long time since I installed a distributor) and they all said it should point at the bolt on the right.

I have to swap the TFI anyway. I'll try moving it around a little bit.

Thanks for the heads-up!

Edit for "progress": I moved the timing by a tooth. (Also verified compression stroke for the #1 cylinder while I was at it) Didn't make a difference. I replaced the TFI with a "known good" one. No difference. I checked for 12v on the injector harness and had 11.55v where the battery (due to much cranking) provides 11.85v. So, that's all good.

 

[General karthief]

You set timing with a light ??

 

[reddy351]

Not yet. Won’t start. Didn’t really see the point until it does.

I have moved the distributor all through its range with very little change.

 

[General karthief]

Give us a pic of your distributor position and rotor position please.

 

[reddy351]

I also tried it with the rotor one tooth counter clockwise. No good.

 

[General karthief]

Actually that looks pretty good.

 

[manicmechanic007]

You will need to do a flood clear start or replace the spark plugs at this point, now that you have cranked and cranked it a bunch of times

 

[General karthief]

^^^ what he said ^^^
At least pull the plugs and check 'em.

 

[reddy351]

You will need to do a flood clear start or replace the spark plugs at this point, now that you have cranked and cranked it a bunch of times

I haven't done that. Maybe 5-10 seconds at a time 2-3 times and then leave it for a day or two until I can try the next thing.

^^^ what he said ^^^
At least pull the plugs and check 'em.

I pulled the plugs when I did the compression check. They're fine.

 

[reddy351]

Tried this checklist video:


View: https://youtu.be/8lo3FVXH-ks?si=g82fbotL-JrQBHqb

Checking the ignition system:
Has spark w/ coil wire to ground
Has spark w/ plug wire to ground
Coil has continuity on 12v primary wire
Checked voltage>>12.3v, same as B+
Coil “blinks” on tach side of primary
Hot on “coil” wire from TFI
>>>no TFI tester like it video<<<
Does not start with “spout” discon.

Checking fuel system:
Fuel pressure on “prime” is 38psi
Relieve pressure>>crank engine>>
Fuel pressure goes to 42psi
After a minute, FP drops to 36psi/stays
Intertia switch is ok. Pump provides FP
Key on>>12v at pin37 and pin57
12v tester to pin22 causes pump to run

Checking injectors:
Has 12v on each injector hot wire
Noid light shows “pulse” on injectors
TPS set to 0.99v

Still no start.

 

[reddy351]

Well, I can see why guys put carburetors on these engines.

 

[General karthief]

Well, I can see why guys put carburetors on these engines.

That's not nice
Start over, you missed something, 180* out of timing or something, that thing should run

 

[Noobz347]

Replaced the BP Sensor and NO MORE CODE 22.

But it will still barely idle. BP Sensor signal wire still reads 2.69v.

On to the next thing, I guess.

Did you ever get a code [11] or [111]?

 

[manicmechanic007]

Sounds like you have the big three and it should start
Do a fuel quality test and make sure the gas is volatile as hell and will blow up a BBQ if used as lighter fluid
Did that checklist have a noid light test
I would perform that noid test on more than one injector
I would also manually fire a few injectors to verify the fuel pressure drops as I did so
Playing with my buddies MSD the other day on his 69 Camaro, I showed him how to rough time one
Set your motor to 10 BTDC on the crank, turn the key on and rotste the distributor back and forth making it spark a few times
Determine where you think the spark occurred and lock the distributor down right there
Maybe try that
We all have checklists, one of mine is a good visual inspection
Looks like yours has never ran before? it is so clean reddy351?
You get 2 spark testers on the car for the next try, one at a plug and one on the coil wire