IMHO, poor advice above.
1)
I bought a new car for $20K. Did I over pay?
WHO THE F**** KNOWS!
WHAT CAR - A COBRA, A CIVIC? Geez!
So, I don't know how anyone could say that you overpaid or not for "some stuff from some
unknown manufacture" that I you bought new.
2) Never, I repeat,
never buy used injectors! IMHO, they are a very foolish cost savings.
3) Depends a LOT on the EXACT MAF and TB you bought.
A C&L is a POS and a joke -period.
A
top quality MAF is ~$400+? I haven't checked the PMAS or ProM websites lately.
TB's quality varies a lot. Unless you have a blower, than the FRPP 65 mm is fine.
4) If you have 30# injectors, you better have a blower! Otherwise, you have a poor match up. Injectors that are too big cause idle problems. Even for a car that runs only on qtr mile tracks, idle problems effect the EEC's calculated trim, and allow for carbon build up.
5) If you're running a blower, IMHO, saving money by buying used injectors would be VERY stupid! A blower setup, and the associated heads & intake, is not cheap. A bad/weak injector will grenade the engine!
6) If you have a blower set, and bought a C&L MAF, IMHO, just remember that *I* said that C&L is a POS and should NEVER be used! Even if you have a Tweecer and do your own MAF calibrate, the C&L is stupid design. It will vary with air pressure, temperature, etc. It's one thing if an NA engine runs a little lean. It's another if a blower kicks in and the engine runs lean, even for a short time, and the person is passing someone on the highway.
Good Luck!