Done!

[Asha'man]

Finished the tranny swap today! For the most part, anyway. I need to get an adjustable clutch cable, firewall adjuster, and quadrant (or some combo of the above) because the JY cable I got is stretched a little. Need to finish up the sound deadening in the shifter hole, and unhook the cable in the steering column that went to the shifter (prevent it from starting in Drive? dunno). Some tips:

- Yes, you can use the A4LD starter index plate! All you have to do is cut away the bottom left hole so it fits the bell, and you're good to go.

- Yes, you do have to cut metal away from the shifter hole. Do it with the tranny OUT of the car, it's much easier that way.

- If you remove the entire line that goes to the vacuum modulator on the A4LD, don't forget to plug the vac hose where it used to be - your idle will be screwed up if you leave it open.

- You can use a Turbocoupe clutch and pressure plate as long as you also use a TC flywheel. It's very grippy - how much grippier than a n/a clutch, I can't say, but it's definitely nice. I left a nice set of snow-stud grooves carved into the floor of the VW garage we used.

- And finally, if you possibly can, get a lift and air tools, as well as someone who knows what they're doing. My buddy Kyle from my Mustang club is a tech at a VW dealer, and also knows his 2.3's (and his Cummins stuff, so he and my dad get along well ), and he was a lifesaver. Many thanks to him.

Gotta wait till I clear out my other attachments to see a pic.

Ash

 

[Dr_EluSivE]

yes the adjustable quadrant is very nice, and also i cant praise the Tri-Ax enough. the stock shifter really does suck! Welcome to the world of the 5 speed though. its a wonderful place!

Dr.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Damn you!

I'm just wrapping up gathering the last remaining parts i need for my conversion. Unfortunately i need to do it in a driveway, but at least i have air tools. No biggie, i have helped change clutches that way before.

 

[Asha'man]

Here's the thing I forgot in the first post....the tranny whines. Sounds like a friggin' blower in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Kyle said drive it with the regular ATF I have in right now for a while and then drain it and replace it with Redline - should cut the whine down a lot. Do T5's whine?

Ash

 

[Dr_EluSivE]

mine does in 1st, 2nd, a little in 3rd and reverse. i think first and second are cut differently for added strength, but more noise.

Dr.

 

[351wcoupe]

Glad to hear you got it all taken care of.

I refuse to use anything other than Mobil one Synthetic ATF. I changed the fluid in the 351w car and it whined before with regular ATF but not after.
It also worked just the same for the 88TC that I swapped over.


Hey now you get to learn to drive your car all over again.

 

[UserName]

Haha you guys think the adjustable clutch setup is nice eh! well im using a 4 speed mustang clutch cable "rigged" to my tranny.....it works tho...... .... i need a short-throw......

 

[Lx89Stang05]

good to here you finished, i need an adjustable cable too, mine doesnt realy wine in any gear, besides reverse. but i did the same and used a TC flywheel and clutch.

 

[CruzNlife1]

My stock ranger tranny whined in OD. ALL THE TIME, VERY AGGRIVATING, drained the watery black fluid out and put in Mobil 1 SYN. Atf (5 bucks a bottle, OUCH!) Anyways whine is gone, and tranny is noticeably easier to shift....

 

[Lx89Stang05]

should i get Synthetic ATF?? or use the old dino juice still, seems as tho i have no problems.

 

[Dr_EluSivE]

Glad to hear you got it all taken care of.

I refuse to use anything other than Mobil one Synthetic ATF. I changed the fluid in the 351w car and it whined before with regular ATF but not after.
It also worked just the same for the 88TC that I swapped over.


Hey now you get to learn to drive your car all over again.

I have been told before by a transmission shop to NOT to use Synthetic ATF. The problem it has it is it is too slippery, the Syncros use the viscosity of the fluid to slow down, but with synthetic they dont slow down fast enough and it wears them out prematurely. He also said that the synthetic stuff does not have the natural lubrication propertys that ATF does and the bearings tend to wear. this guy has worked on transmissions for 25 years so i tend to believe him.

Dr.

 

[351wcoupe]

I have been told before by a transmission shop to NOT to use Synthetic ATF. The problem it has it is it is too slippery, the Syncros use the viscosity of the fluid to slow down, but with synthetic they dont slow down fast enough and it wears them out prematurely. He also said that the synthetic stuff does not have the natural lubrication propertys that ATF does and the bearings tend to wear. this guy has worked on transmissions for 25 years so i tend to believe him.

Dr.

yeah I would also have no reason to doubt such a claim. Other than I've put a combined 40-50k (ran hard) trouble free miles.
I'll definately look into it.

 

[GTPhreak]

third gear on my gt whines like a BIA! the part that scares me about that is on t5's 3rd gear is normally the first to go

 

[SVO1]

I have been told before by a transmission shop to NOT to use Synthetic ATF. The problem it has it is it is too slippery, the Syncros use the viscosity of the fluid to slow down, but with synthetic they dont slow down fast enough and it wears them out prematurely. He also said that the synthetic stuff does not have the natural lubrication propertys that ATF does and the bearings tend to wear. this guy has worked on transmissions for 25 years so i tend to believe him.

Dr.

That does go with reason, and I have seen tests that show the same.

Also in my 87 Back when it was n/a I ran synthetic in it, and 2nd/3rd synchros were totally destroyed within about 20k miles. This was including some AutoX/and very very very hard driving everyday.
The fluid looked like Pepto Bismol when I drained it!

 

[140cilx]

well I like my SYNTHETIC! BAH!

 

[Asha'man]

Is Redline synthetic? I've been told that might stop or subdue the whine, but it's kinda 'spensive so I don't wanna do it if it'll screw with stuff.

Ash

 

[ka0tyk]

you do NOT need to cut a hole in teh floor. mine went in fine without cutting. i had to cut a hole when i swapped the stock shifter with a pro 5.0 shifter, only because i couldnt get to the front bolts...

you do need to unplug two jumper's, one on the steering column, and one behind the AC controls.

you do NOT need the clutch safety wires plugged in to start the car... however if they're plugged in and the switch is faulty, it wont start. ( like mine... which is why i dont use the safety and i can start my car in gear... )

if you're looking for a shifter... i have a pro 5.0 and I couldnt recommend anything else better. im sure its equal with the upr and tri-ax... after going from teh stocker to the pro 5.0... holy crap. no missed shifts... it even moves more easily than before into gears... at first i hated the mechanical feel... now i hate the rubber feel...

 

[Asha'man]

Your car must be weird, then. I absolutely had to cut a hole, there was no possible way for the shifter to fit otherwise. I had no jumpers to unplug anywhere, and the car will not start with the clutch neutral safety switch unplugged. Guess ya just gotta take it as ya go.

I definitely plan on getting an aftermarket shifter soon, I hate how imprecise it is now.

Ash

 

[Dr_EluSivE]

Your car must be weird, then. I absolutely had to cut a hole, there was no possible way for the shifter to fit otherwise. I had no jumpers to unplug anywhere, and the car will not start with the clutch neutral safety switch unplugged. Guess ya just gotta take it as ya go.


Ash

ditto:

I didnt mess with any jumpers, i DID have to splice together the NSS wires on the transmission for it to start, and i DID NOT have to cut Or enlarge the hole even when i installed the tri-ax.

Dr.

 

[mr_woodster]

So, in its day, the a4ld was an upgrade option....so by swaping in the t5 you have lowerd the value of your car? Praise the lord for optionless stangs! ehhehehe