door lock actuators install?

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I actually don't drill out anything, i can have it changed in 10mins including removing the door panel, I just pull on one side of the plastic bracket that holds the actuator and pull on it and it comes right out, to install do the same thing, it can take some work if you haven't done it before though...just don't do it when it's cold, you might break the plastic holder
 
im kinda lost. are you sticking the expensive o.e. ones in, or going to use the $3.77 ones?

i highly recommend the latter. ive done it and its cake. IIRC, the mounting bracket is rivetted (sp?) in, so it would be a pita to retrofit. if you do the cheap actuators, you could use a bracket from a home store (make it from the u shaped brackets they sell). since you would be rigging some stuff, why not do it all.

with the jrichker install, you can cut some corners. takes less than 30 mins (and about 15 mins on the next one). ill share what corners i cut if you are interested. saves a lot of time. im very satisfied with the retrofit. it doesnt get much cheaper than that (i spent 3.77 + shipping and bought a lock nut. cost less than advertised (i used some stuff i had around, if you have no garage and stuff around, may be a buck or two more). just me. good luck.
 
Where do you get the $3.77 ones at? The ones I found were like $89.00 But I guess the cheap ones would work just as well. Are they the same type or do you have to make em work?
Also the ones I looked at did not come with the plastic mounting bracket and there is not one in my door right now. So I guess I would have to rig something up. How would I go about this?
 
I'm confused... you're saying there's no plastic mounting bracket holding the actuator to the inside of the door? Did your car have power windows already? If so, what happened to the bracket? The actuator won't work without being mounted to the door with the bracket. Did the power lock ever work before? Maybe the bracket broke and fell inside the door, did you feel all down in there to see if it was in there?
I've changed out both on my car and changed my brother-in-law's the other day. Even with drilling out the rivets and installing the new actuators, it's still a 30 minute job at the most. I didn't use rivets to re-install them though, I just found short bolts and nuts to mount them with.
If you're in need of the white plastic mounting brackets, I have two dead actuators with the brackets on them. You can have them if you want.
Just let me know and we'll arrange sending them to you.
Hope this helps!
 
a_turbo_stang said:
Where do you get the $3.77 ones at? The ones I found were like $89.00 But I guess the cheap ones would work just as well. Are they the same type or do you have to make em work?
Also the ones I looked at did not come with the plastic mounting bracket and there is not one in my door right now. So I guess I would have to rig something up. How would I go about this?
Badpony, im confused too. it sounds like a turbo stang was gonna get stock replacements, but then links to jrichker's retrofit, etc were posted (using the 3.77 actuators). BTW, they come from

www.partsexpress.com

so i didnt know if he was gonna do an oem replacement or the retrofit. if two are needed, and a bracket is needed anyhow, why not do the retrofit (IMHO). if not, two actuators will cost around 90 bucks. ouch.

A.T.S., if you want to use the $3.77 ones, read the link for jrichker, as he uses them. as said (and it sounds like others have shortcuts too), it is easier than the write up sounds.

let us know what way you want to go. good luck.
 
Sorry for confusing you all. lol I was originally gonna install OE ones that did not come with the plastic mounting pieces. I see the $3.77 ones does not need that piece.
Yes my car has power windows and the power locks have never worked. When I took the door panel off yesterday there was no actuators or the plastick pieces that get rivited to the door that they mount on. I was told that the new actuators do not come with the plastic mounting pieces. Looks like someone before me had removed them for some reason. Thanks for the help on this.
 
89lxsport, good info. i didnt know new actuators come with mounting brackets. is this true of the oe style, but not oe units (you know, same thing, but always cheaper)?

you will need the bracket for any actuator, including the 3.77 ones. in Jrichker's write up, that is why he drills through the inner door metal to allow a long bolt to go through the bracket and actuator. you will need some kind of bracket, so that when the actuator "pushes," it is secured by something. or else the actuator will move instead of the rod and linkage moving.

BTW, if you go with the retrofit, you can bypass the whole drilling through the door. i used another method that seems fine.
good luck.