Dripping T5

NIKwoaC

中國製造
15 Year Member
Oct 31, 2006
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Chengdu Province
I'm hoping the answer I get doesn't invlolve me pulling the trans, but I'm already afraid its what I have to do.

At first I thought the leak was coming from the tailshaft seal, but I replaced it with a new one last week, so I'm fairly confident it isn't that. I also retorqued all the taihousing bolts that I could reach under the car, so I don't think its there either. Also, both the fill and drain plugs are kung-fu grip tight and wrapped with teflon tape.

It seems to only drip immediately after a drive (within just a few minutes), so I'm guessing it has to do with being hot or the drip is coming from somewhere that isn't submerged with fluid when the car sits still.

Any ideas? Anybody with similar experience? If I can't solve this with the trans in the car, its going to have to wait for a couple months until my life stabilizes (AKA work settles down).
 
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I would try cleaning the tranny really good with brake clean, then drive it around a block or so and then pull over and check it to see if you can see what general area its coming from. Then you can pinpoint all your possibilities.
 
Funny, my dad just pointed out to me that my car was leaking just a little, which looked like oil or something, so I checked really well under the car and I could feel a bit coming from the trans, but it seemed to be moreso when I had it jacked in the garage, but noticed it a bit after going for a drive. Was thinking when I am doing my fuel pump tomorrow I would re-tighten the bolts on the tranny cause they could be loose a bit. Also not willing to drop my tranny any time soon, may just have to buy some extra fluid, and check it every once in awhile. Was thinking maybe a plug or something could be loose, just installed a speedo gear and cable. Thinking I should clean it and do the same thing to see where it could be leaking.

Goodluck NikwoaC
 
there is a bronze bearing the yoke sits in just behind the rear seal. if that goes then it can bypass the rear seal even though it is new. the bronze bearing can also make the yoke rotate crooked having too much play which would tear up any rear seal. good luck.


I know this as I have had it happen to me once. pulled the tail shaft off on the bearing was destroyed. replaced it and didnt have anymore issues.
 
Yea, I wiped down the trans as best I could while I was under there. Problem is that trans fluid is much cleaner and clearer than oil, so its hard to tell just where its coming from. I know its not the speedo cable, that area is bone dry. I'll have to do a better job of it and see what I can find.

there is a bronze bearing the yoke sits in just behind the rear seal. if that goes then it can bypass the rear seal even though it is new. the bronze bearing can also make the yoke rotate crooked having too much play which would tear up any rear seal. good luck.


I know this as I have had it happen to me once. pulled the tail shaft off on the bearing was destroyed. replaced it and didnt have anymore issues.

Sounds interesting. I'd be disappointed if this was the case, though, because this trans is an Astro Performance built T5 that has only been driven 3 or 4 seasons now. It has maybe 10-15 thousand miles on it, all street driving. I won't rule it out, though.
 
somethings to take a look at would be stuff like the vent on top of the tranny.make sure it's not clogged ,broken etc. It's normal find some weeping from it but fluid shouldn't be running out of it. If so it might be over full or some internal problem is going on. Leaks where the cases meet are common, there isn't a gasket to seal it instead they use rtv and it's easy to nick the rtv when putting the cases back together thinning out a spot of the rtv and causing a leak later on, the only fix is to pull it apart and reaseal it. you can also check the tailshaft bushing like old_blue stated, you can grab the tailshaft yoke and move it up and down, there shouldn't be much play at all. If you get alot of play then the bushing would be suspect. something I like to check when replacing the tailshaft seal is the condition of the tailshaft yoke, i like to clean it with emery cloth to smooth it just in case it has a small burr that could damage the seal.

another thing to note on tailshaft seals, I have found the many non oem seals leak ( or at least for me ) they have a very short seal area that covers the shaft of the yoke compared to the oem one, some are atleast 2" shorter.

here is a non oem seal, very short seal. The rubber doesn't protrude very far out of the seal and doesn't ceover much of the yoke..

View attachment 252247

the oem seal has much more "seal" and covers more of the yoke.

LRS-7052A.jpg



just something I noted. I hope you can get this sorted out, best of luck .
 
somethings to take a look at would be stuff like the vent on top of the tranny.make sure it's not clogged ,broken etc. It's normal find some weeping from it but fluid shouldn't be running out of it. If so it might be over full or some internal problem is going on. Leaks where the cases meet are common, there isn't a gasket to seal it instead they use rtv and it's easy to nick the rtv when putting the cases back together thinning out a spot of the rtv and causing a leak later on, the only fix is to pull it apart and reaseal it. you can also check the tailshaft bushing like old_blue stated, you can grab the tailshaft yoke and move it up and down, there shouldn't be much play at all. If you get alot of play then the bushing would be suspect. something I like to check when replacing the tailshaft seal is the condition of the tailshaft yoke, i like to clean it with emery cloth to smooth it just in case it has a small burr that could damage the seal.

another thing to note on tailshaft seals, I have found the many non oem seals leak ( or at least for me ) they have a very short seal area that covers the shaft of the yoke compared to the oem one, some are atleast 2" shorter.

here is a non oem seal, very short seal. The rubber doesn't protrude very far out of the seal and doesn't ceover much of the yoke..

View attachment 252233

the oem seal has much more "seal" and covers more of the yoke.

LRS-7052A.jpg



just something I noted. I hope you can get this sorted out, best of luck .

Excellent reply, thanks, that helps a lot. The seal I just put in it looks like the small one you showed, and surprisingly, its bigger than the one that was in it before. The one I removed didn't have a boot at all, just a thin internal rubber ring.

But either way, it sounds like I'm going to have to pull it to diagnose this. There is RTV bulging out of the cracks where the cases meet, but I was suspect of that area before, as it always appears wet. Of course, its also one of the low parts of the trans. :shrug:
 
there is a bronze bearing the yoke sits in just behind the rear seal. if that goes then it can bypass the rear seal even though it is new. the bronze bearing can also make the yoke rotate crooked having too much play which would tear up any rear seal. good luck.


I know this as I have had it happen to me once. pulled the tail shaft off on the bearing was destroyed. replaced it and didnt have anymore issues.

After talking with Tony at Astro Performance (they built this trans), I've determined that this is the problem (or part of it). How hard is it to replace this bushing? Can I do it at home or do I need to take it to a trans shop? Keep in mind I've rebuilt T5s before, so I know my way around them. I don't think I ever changed this bushing though, that I can remember.
 
Tore the car down and pulled apart the trans this afternoon. After looking at the bushing and running my finger along the slip yoke, its clear that was the culprit. The bushing has visible uneven wear and the yoke has probably .010"-.020" worn off the diameter (using the good 'ol thumb micrometer, haha). So the car will get a shiny new aluminum driveshaft and bushing and a bunch of fresh black RTV.

More about the bushing- How do you pull it out? Bearing puller? Tap it out with a screwdriver and hammer? And how do you press it back in? Do I need to use a press or can I tap it in with a pipe or socket or something? I'm afraid to muscle it and end up FUBAR'ing it. :rolleyes:
 
I banged mine out with hammer and chizel. There is a slot in it. I put the edge of the chisel in the slot and banged it inwards. That collapsed the bushing and a few taps knocked it out.

To put it in, i just put it in place, and used a bearing driver. But a large socket or pipe that fits would work too
 
Glad I could be of help for one LOL.

I banged mine out with hammer and chizel. There is a slot in it. I put the edge of the chisel in the slot and banged it inwards. That collapsed the bushing and a few taps knocked it out.

To put it in, i just put it in place, and used a bearing driver. But a large socket or pipe that fits would work too

what he said. very simple. I used a rubber mallet to get it started just made sure I hit it square. I actually had this problem on my 68 camaro too. the bearing was really wore and the yoke was visibly thinner on the tip.

glad you found it hope it solves your problem