EGR DELETE????

[PUZMAN]

Hey everyone,

I’m currently dropping a 5.0 into my 4cyl car. I am building a street/strip car that will be used mostly for the strip. I am just wondering about this whole egr BS. I know that disabling the air pump will cause a code to be thrown in the computer, but will not cause the check engine light to come on. I am wondering about the egr. If I use an egr block off plate what sort of trouble am I going to run into and are there any ways around it. Will this cause my car to lose some streetabiltiy? It is a mild motor set up with some afr 165 heads, e cam, gt-40 upper and lower with c&l mass air with accufab throttle body. What is my prognosis?

Thanks

 

[TheUser]

i'd assume you're going to run an off-road mid-pipe, and if that assumption is correct, then you should be able to ditch the smog; the air pump is to help keep the cats in good, working condition.

 

[PUZMAN]

Ya, I am running off road h pipe and the smog pump isnt even a thought. what about the egr and its asoicated componets?

 

[jrichker]

EGr reduces combustion temperature, and octane requirements in cruse mode. Some engines will develop a part throttle ping because the EGR is not present or working. The EGR closes when you got WOT (wide open throttle), so it has no effect on full throttle performance.

If you are going to remove the smog equipment (Cats, smog pump, EGR, etc.) plan to have a custom chip burned to eliminate the trouble codes and possible limp mode operation associated with them.

 

[warmdye]

you need an egr simulator from ron morris performance. $40

http://www.ronmorrisperformance.com/05spec/index.html


I have one and it works great. No codes, no problems. You could make one yourself with resistors. After buying the ron morris part I made up some "simulators"" for the EVR, and smog pump solenoids and canister purge selenoid. Now I get no codes and I have 0 smog equipement.

To construct my "simulators" I just cut a small section of 1/2" pvc about 2 or 3 inches then put my resistor in there and connnected the wires to the harness then filled the pvc pipe with RTV. Let it dry and painted them black. You would never know they were there if you weren't looking.

 

[jrichker]

Even easier is an EGR blockoff plate. Cost is $1-$5 for some .040-.060 aluminum plate. Use the EGR gasket as a template to cut the outline. Only drill the hole for the pintle that sticks out of the EGR and the mount holes. Use two thin gaskets and you are in business. The EGR moves in response to the vacuum and the computer thinks everything is working like it should.

Just remember my earlier comments about what the EGR does. Many people haven't taken the time to read the book and find out what it does & how it works.

Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by Charles Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $20 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select boo...very good, and I found it to be very helpful.

 

[jrichker]

Server hicupped, double post.

 

[OrLackThereof]

I would leave the EGR in, man.. All it does is really help you out, AND the environment too...I see no logical reason to disable it. And on my car...which is also a headed, cammed, mildly modified 5.0.....when I disconnect the EGR or disable it in some way, the car will occasionally backfire, and has a rough transition between throttle application and deceleration.

 

[Michael Yount]

Also, the Ron Morris piece will eliminate the check engine light, but it doesn't alter the fact that under part throttle conditions, you're liable to be running with too much timing and/or too lean - which can lead to detonation as jrichker mentions above. It doesn't happen to everyone, but does happen to many. If I were you, I'd either leave it functional (it does not hinder w.o.t. performance, and helps part throttle emissions and gas mileage), or when you remove it, use a chip to turn off both the egr and thermactor functions in the ecu. The latter is the approach I took.

 

[88_GT_5_oh]

i deleted my egr with a plate cause it wasn't working any way, and all i did was take the eletrical connector off the back thats held on with three screws and kept it plugged in.... no check engine light.. probably not the best way to do it but it worked

 

[90mustangGT]

Go carbed, thats one way to do an easy emmisons delete.

You might as well pull the intake and block where the EGR ports flow into the intake to help keep the intake cooler. I like the home made simulators, sounds like a good idea and will cost alot less.

 

[warmdye]

You should just get rid of the whole damn egr spacer and egr valve. I did and my engine compartment looks so much cleaner. Got rid of the heater core hard piping and all that mess too.

If your looking for an egr block of plate, i have one on ebay right now for $1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7909280644&sspagename=STRK:MESE:IT

worked great on my car for over 10 years and will work for you

 

[PUZMAN]

Like I said prior I am building a street strip car, so I am mostly looking for performance. From everything that has been said I think my best bet is to dump the whole egr system. I will remove the spacer and put a plate in its place and I will have my chip reburned so it doesn’t look for the egr. I picked up an A9l from a buddies totaled car that I believe has a supperchip in it. I think that’s my best bet. I don’t have a heater core either so there is no point in the egr spacer as far as I am concerned. Thanks for all the help!!!