Engine Pic - Powdercoating done.

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by InMyPrimeSVT, May 6, 2012.


  1. Gearbanger 101

    Gearbanger 101 we love us some gays up here Super Mod

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    lol....someone who wanted to sell you overpriced powdercoating would tell you that. :D

    That fact is....anytime a part is painted, or coated in any way, it's going to retain more heat. Is it enough to worry about....probably not.
    #21
  2. 94blackcobra

    94blackcobra Member

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    Powder coat it yourself and you could do it for less than $50. I just built an oven for curing parts out of an old propane grill and a 55 gallon steel drum. I ceramic coated my long tubes and h-pipe and baked them for over an hour at 700* in it.
    #22
  3. 99FiveOh

    99FiveOh Advanced Member

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    First, 700* is WAY too hot. You only need to cure most powders at 375 for 15 minutes (15 minutes AFTER the part reaches 375*). Second, if someone takes a supercharger apart and doesn't have a clue what they are doing, that 50.00 powder coating job will turn into 1000 bucks or more very quickly!!

    Now I'm sure you could buy a used blower, take it apart to powder coat it then send it in for Vortech to rebuilt/reassemble for you. But that's just a guess as I have no clue how those people operate!
    #23
  4. 94blackcobra

    94blackcobra Member

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    The ceramic coating that I used specified one hour of curing at 500 to 700*, with the hotter curing temperature resulting in a more resiliant finish.
    #24
  5. 99FiveOh

    99FiveOh Advanced Member

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    Oh, yeah didn't see the ceramic part lol. At my old job we'd turn the oven up as high as it'd go for ceramic and cure it about an hour. The oven would go to 450 and that would do it. No failures yet on headers that have been in service for a few years now, including my own! I hear you on the resiliant part though, the luster of my polished ceramic headers has dulled pretty badly now, but I can polish them back pretty easily! this is what they looked like when they were fresh though:

    [​IMG]

    Ceramic is the closest thing to polished aluminum I have found, but it is VERY insulating so we don't wanna coat any temp sensitive parts with that stuff!!
    #25
  6. 99FiveOh

    99FiveOh Advanced Member

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    I wouldn't mind more shots of this, I love that blue and if I leave my car white I may do something similar! Those look like candy blues.
    #26
  7. InMyPrimeSVT

    InMyPrimeSVT Founding Member

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  8. InMyPrimeSVT

    InMyPrimeSVT Founding Member

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    Uh, with all do respect...YOUR engine is pretty sick man. I wouldn't change anything.

    Yeah it's a candy blue. I have a white car with blue racing stripes. So the blue picks up the engine compartment.
    #28
  9. InMyPrimeSVT

    InMyPrimeSVT Founding Member

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  10. sixt9coug

    sixt9coug Member

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    powdercoating won't act as enough of an insulator to hurt anything. Average coating thickness will be in the area of 2-3 mils.

    3 mils is .003 inches. Our main bearings probably have more clearance than that :D
    #30
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  11. InMyPrimeSVT

    InMyPrimeSVT Founding Member

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    Decided not to powdercoat the blower. A polished unit should be showing up this week.
    #31
  12. Ozz

    Ozz I think I have a problem here. Founding Member

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    FWIW most black powders only need to cure between 350-375 degrees for 10 minutes. :shrug:
    #32
  13. 9646gt

    9646gt Member

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    Looks clean! Wish mine was cleaner but with all the miles on it I would need to pull the motor and clean everything. What is that black pipe and hose coming up behind the middle idler pulley? My 95 does not have that.
    #33
  14. 99FiveOh

    99FiveOh Advanced Member

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    That black hose is part of the Cobra's unique coolant piping I believe.
    #34
  15. Chythar

    Chythar Well-Known Member

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    You are correct. 94-95 Cobras have a factory oil cooler; it routes coolant through that black metal pipe down to the adapter bolted to the block. I think I have photos of it from my Cobra clone build, I can post them if you want.
    #35

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