Entire exhaust system welded

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Talk' started by jeraldjcook, Nov 4, 2009.

  1. jeraldjcook New Member

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    What are my options? I need to replace the clutch on the coupe I recently purchased but the entire exhaust system is welded together. And I mean everything. BBK LT headers are welded to the catted H-pipe, extension between the H-pipe and Flowmaster mufflers are welded, the pieces over the read axles are welded, as are chrome pipes. The exhaust system is brand new so I'd hate to just start cutting. I'm thinking my only option is to pull the engine since I cannot drop the T5. I'd love to hear any suggestions on changing the clutch. And to why somebody would weld an exhaust system together.

    (Bit of background: I bought the car over the internet 1300 miles away. The car is in excellent shape and the guy supplied the photos to prove it. I crawled under the car when I flew down to pick up the car and the exhaust system had mechanical fasteners on all the joints so I didn't inquire further. I come to find out only after removing the mechanical fasteners everything is welded.)
  2. NikwoaC Mustang Master

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    Weird.


    Well, unless you want to drop the rear end out of the car and possibly the K-member too, I'd imagine you need to get to cutting.
  3. stykthyn Commander of the snuggie cultists

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    I just ran into this with my friends car. there is no way you are going to drop them without cutting. cut them off and take the headers/midpipe to the shop and have new flanges welded on so you can bolt them in the way they are supposed to be.
  4. jeraldjcook New Member

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    This crossed my mind but I wasn't sure if it could be done. Definitely the easiest way to go but I'd hate to cut into anything. It looks so nice and clean right now I'd hate to Frankenstein it up.
  5. stykthyn Commander of the snuggie cultists

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    nice + clean pipes or worn out clutch. pick one.
  6. 90lxcoupe Active Member

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    +1 for cutting it off. Get a set of V-band clamps welded to it and call it a day, cut the exhaust at the header and after whatever midpipe is on there
  7. ID89GT Active Member

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    Cut at the headers and weld collectors back on.
  8. cenok is family New Member

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    lol i'm kinda in the same boat. my entire exhaust is welded from midpipe back, not to my headers though. i need to pull my transmission but cant drop my exhaust cause of the tailpipes going over the axle. i'm just gonna cut the tails off again. get them hung the right way later. i have a reallllly crappy muffler shop-made exhaust right now though, so i didn't care.
  9. Chrome_Rust Member

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    When I broke the 3-4 Shift fork in my old T5, i got the trans out without taking out the exhaust. I pulled the 4 trans to bell bolts, pulled the DS, pulled out the mount, pulled out the shifter, pulled out the X-member, and slid it back til then inputshaft fell from the bell housing, then pushed it out the front, went in reverse. my pipes are fully welded except to the shorty's, but I left them hooked up.
  10. tannerc91gt Advanced Member

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    Dumps ftw. I can have my exhaust off in less than 10 min.


    Yes I know that's not helpful.
  11. cenok is family New Member

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    yeah i know what you mean! this is the first time my car has ever had tailpipes hooked up. first time any mustangs i've owned haven't been dumped actually.
  12. Mustang5L5 Founding Member

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    I'd take it to an exhaust shop, and tell them to "make" you a midpipe. Basically cut the exhaust after the collectors and before the mufflers and weld on the ball-and-socket flanges.

    You never know when you'll need to drop the exhaust for a repair.


    Friend of mine ran into this on his car. Weld to muffler shop where they WELDED the entire exhaust together from headers back. Cost him $800 or so. 2 weeks later, AOD blows.....had to take the sawzall to the exhaust
  13. magi111 Banned

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    I got pwned spamming
  14. Ozz I think I have a problem here.

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    get the **** outta here
  15. jrichker StangNet's favorite TOOL

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    Best advice you have gotten so far. It won't be cheap, but it will work good.

    The ball and socket joints will allow you to align the pipes so that they do not rub. If you change anything in the rear - tires, wheels or suspension, you may have to realign the exhaust pipes to keep them from rubbing. The ball and socket joints make it simple to move the pipes around so they don't rub.
  16. 85_SS_302_Coupe it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end

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    I would cut them very neatly, and then just have them welded back on. This will also give you an excuse to drive your car to the muffler shop with open headers :D

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